ABOUT BATTLE GRADE;

GLOUGLOU

GLOUGLOU

Joined
Aug 22, 2006
Messages
529
I just reaceave my Busse today.
Nice big knife, I trully love it.
Unfortunatly I'm not fan of the blade coating and I'd like to know how yo remove it, is their a major rusting risk, and what will be the blade finish under coating. Does a big polishing will be needed?
 
Citristrip works well for stripping Busse's coatings, without a lot of toxic fumes.

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You'll probably have a layer of decarb after you strip it, and that'll rust like crazy. You can take that off with a ScotchBrite wheel on a power drill. Once you get through that, rusting shouldn't be too big an issue.
 
Citristrip works really well, just put a layer on and wipe it off an hour later. From there you might want to sand it down some, then you can polish, blue or force patina.
 
Citristrip works great! Make sure to look into etching the logo before stripping the coating (if keeping the logo matters to you). Also, Battle grade is SR101 if I remember right...so it is not stainless and will rust if not protected.

~Chip
 
I don't have the experience that a lot of others here have with SR101 but so far my experience with it has been that as long as you get all of the decarb layer off and get it down to good clean steel, with just a little preventive maintenance, "rust" hasn't been an issue with my SR101. Basically, don't put it away wet, and wipe it down with some kind of oil once in a while and you will probably get some discoloring or "patina" but I've never had any real rust.

Just be aware though that sometimes you might find things under the coating that might make you wish you had left it on. I sanded these marks out of my BG DTBM so it's not something that isn't fixable but just know that there may be more work involved if you want a nice clean looking blade.
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clampdaddy said:
I don't have the experience that a lot of others here have with SR101 but so far my experience with it has been that as long as you get all of the decarb layer off and get it down to good clean steel, with just a little preventive maintenance, "rust" hasn't been an issue with my SR101. Basically, don't put it away wet, and wipe it down with some kind of oil once in a while and you will probably get some discoloring or "patina" but I've never had any real rust.

Just be aware though that sometimes you might find things under the coating that might make you wish you had left it on. I sanded these marks out of my BG DTBM so it's not something that isn't fixable but just know that there may be more work involved if you want a nice clean looking blade.
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I would be pissed if I found that under the coating. That is just ridiculous :thumbsdown:
 
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I'm not sure if it's just dumb luck, but all of my Battle Grade strippers were very clean under the coating. Seems like the pits and chatter marks are somewhat more likely on INFI blades?
 
inkynate said:
I'm not sure if it's just dumb luck, but all of my Battle Grade strippers were very clean under the coating. Seems like the pits and chatter marks are somewhat more likely on INFI blades?
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I haven't found any pits or inclusions in SR101 but of four SR101 strippers I have, three of them have had the grinder gremlin marks. I had bought a BG FBM that had them bad enough that at a glance they were easily visible through the coating. The shop took care of it in short order. If I shine a flashlight across the replacement blade I can vaguely make out some marks in it but it is nothing that I would consider a defect in the finish of a coated blade, so I'm just going to use it as is and if I ever manage to wear it clean I'll sand them out like I did on my DTBM.
 
Thanks guys I appreciate.
Looks looks like the SR101 is a rusty steel...bad news, so I'll certainly have to leave the ugly coating to protect my blade.
Next will be in InFI.
 
SR101 is a carbon steel and can rust, that said it is my own experience that it only takes minimal maintenance to look after, it certainly does not turn to dust before your eyes. I have also noted that if it gets a bit of rust colour on it this seems to wipe off with a little oil on a rag.
 
And if you use Mineral Oil, it’s non toxic for food use. Good luck.
 
Nice pizza separation instrument. Most civilians wouldn’t understand. But we all do...;-)
 
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