ABOUT BATTLE GRADE;

As long as it's not left wet for to extended periods it likely wont be flaking full fledged rust.. it will however begin to show a good patina...which is sexy as hell.. looks tough, looks serious
Just dont store it wet and give her a light coat of oil after use an she will be fine..
 
WValtakis said:
That's what I use on the pizza slicer ;)
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~Chip
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Zaza dr sa 4a
WValtakis said:
That's what I use on the pizza slicer ;)
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~Chip
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qPZWTfd.jpg

Ya I know...its not sr101, but it is a good shot of a busse and a cheesy pie:D
 
Robdude said:
As long as it's not left wet for to extended periods it likely wont be flaking full fledged rust.. it will however begin to show a good patina...which is sexy as hell.. looks tough, looks serious
Just dont store it wet and give her a light coat of oil after use an she will be fine..
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Agreed. To my eye black canvas and patina is the toughest looking combo in all of BusseKindom.
 
Citristrip is the way to go, but if in a hurry extra strength jasco paint and epoxy remover will eat pretty much anything but its pretty nasty.
 
Has anyone ever gotten the scoop on what the heck those gremlin marks are from? Looks like a damn ball tipped engraving bit ran wild over the blades. If it was a cnc machine the chuck must be wobbling around like crazy or the bit bent to be so random. o_O:confused:
 
StealthCaliber said:
Has anyone ever gotten the scoop on what the heck those gremlin marks are from? Looks like a damn ball tipped engraving bit ran wild over the blades. If it was a cnc machine the chuck must be wobbling around like crazy or the bit bent to be so random. o_O:confused:
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If I remember correctly, Bossman just said that it was something that happens during the manufacturing process. But the manufacturing process starts with a blank sheet of steel and ends with putting the final edge on the blade, so anything that happens in between is still a mystery. Lol!
 
666104B2-9A86-453C-8E5A-966A0CE7781B.jpeg

Coin toss time ...

The only reason I haven’t stripped this one is because it’s sterile.

Really curious to see if it’s differentially heat treated though ..

Will update after I procure some more citristrip .
 
Andy the Aussie said:
...it looks to me an old school version, if so it will have DHT. I think the M9/M6s were the last of the DHT blades and the Weiler pre-dates them.
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I picked up a Chopweiler and an M9 at Blade 2010 and both have DHT. I def think they were the last Swampies to have that.
 
Started doing a little stripping on my BG SFNO. I was just doing a bit of the tip at first, to get a good connection to try to do 9V etching of the Battle Grade markings. Anyway, got a funny peeling near the edge with the stripper. As it turns out, it appears some very slight rusting was occurring under the coating at the primary edge. That was a little surprising.
No pitting, and not a large area. Just a little, that was covered by the coating, until I started stripping it.
 
Posting this to say that I’m leaning toward stripping more (all?) of my Battle Grades. At least then I can see the problem and address it before it causes a secondary problem.

Just thinking...
 
DTOM 1776 said:
SR101 rusts when you look at it. Be prepared.
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Not as bad as that gray stuff under the CG coating on Busse blades! :eek:
If you don't get that stuff all off, it will run in an environment controlled to low humidity. I've experienced it. One SAR5 that I couldn't sand the stuff away. It was rusting overnight inside the house with the AC running. It didn't stop until I got it bead blasted away.

Not so much my SR101 blades. I get them sanded good, and don't have a problem. In the two that I've done.
 
dogboye said:
Not as bad as that gray stuff under the CG coating on Busse blades! :eek:
If you don't get that stuff all off, it will run in an environment controlled to low humidity. I've experienced it. One SAR5 that I couldn't sand the stuff away. It was rusting overnight inside the house with the AC running. It didn't stop until I got it bead blasted away.

Not so much my SR101 blades. I get them sanded good, and don't have a problem. In the two that I've done.
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How is that SAR holding up? I thought about it the other day when I found a couple tiny freckles on my blasted TGLB.
 
DTOM 1776 said:
SR101 rusts when you look at it. Be prepared.
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.....that is somewhat overstating it I think mate. It is a carbon steel and will oxidise like they all do, no worse than any other in my experience and if I am to be honest less than many, it also seems to stay surface bound and wipes away with a hint of an oily rag. The simplest of knife maintenance, the kind we should all undertake no matter the steel, will prevent it. In fact I just located my stripped RMD that has been behind a bike in my garage for close to the past 12 months (my garage is moist year round and humid across summer). The knife is in a kydex sheath and fell there with only minimal maintenance (not like I planned for it to be there) and it is unmolested.
 
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