Nathan the Machinist
KnifeMaker / Machinist / Evil Genius
Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2007
- Messages
- 17,575
C plate $60 (this is a direct swap for your existing C plate) (qty 50)
3rd wheel adapter $25 (you probably don't need this) (qty 25)
Axle Hardware $10 per axle (you probably don't need this either) (qty I will order these at the end of next week based upon demand)
Flat rate shipping in the USA $15
Please read and understand what this is before buying. There's a good chance you don't need any of it, and a very good chance you don't need all of it, so please understand what this is before buying it.
I have a KMG grinder that has served me well for a long time. We put an enormous amount of work across that grinder, it's a work horse. When we added Mark I got another KMG grinder for him. The new grinder was a disappointment, it was not made as straight as the old grinder so there were tracking issues and a big part of it came down to the C plate. I decided to make myself some new C plates and that was the origin of this project. If you are having tracking issues, and those issues are due to your C plate, this will help address your problem.
For me, the main tracking issue wasn't wobble and instability, is was an inability to track in reverse. I do 90% of the sharpening process in reverse and I also grind plunges lengthwise on a special platen in reverse. I go back and forth from forward to reverse a lot. To me a grinder that can't do this isn't worth much.
This grinder is dialed in well
A grinder that is dialed in well can even track in both directions without using the tracking wheel
The OEM is not using the best aluminum to make the C plates. It isn't flat and the extrusion direction is going the wrong way because extrusions tend to be more or less straight in the direction of extrusion (it gets stretched) but can get a little wonky perpendicular to that axis.
This was the problem C plate, it was probably .020" out
This was the old C plate that worked pretty well, it was probably .010" out
This is my C plate that I made from quality aluminum and decked flat, I'm sure it's not perfect but it's pretty close.
Also, the original axle mounting holes are simply drilled and tapped, which not a high precision hole.
After I face the material, my holes are CNC circular interpolated for an accurate hole then CNC single point thread milled. This gives me a truly accurate perpendicular thread feature
So, if your grinder is giving you tracking problems and if your problem is related to a poorly made C plate, this will help your problem.
I added some 1/4-20 threaded holes to the design for fixturing so I could deck it and make the important hole features in one setup without clamping across it. These holes are not an important feature of the design but they don't hurt anything. However they do allow the addition of a 3rd wheel. I have a use for this for a process we do here so I made a few 3rd wheel adapters if it's something you have a use for
I'm not sure what you might use this for, but I would encourage you to be safe and fabricate any guards you might need if you're going to build anything too crazy.
And lastly I have an axle hardware kit for $10 each
You probably don't need one of these, but some of the hardware that came with my KMG wasn't the best and had a drunken thread and the nut was more suitable for a farming implement than an accurate spindle assembly. So I'm using a high quality Socket Head Cap screw from Unbrako, their part number 120761, they have some of the best manufacturing practices in the industry. It is MSC item number 67807248. And I'm replacing the nut with a fully machined Gibraltar check nut, MSC PN 77414076, it is the correct dimensions and it much more accurate than a common nut.
If you would like to order something here, I need you to please follow these instructions to help me keep up with everything (otherwise folks will fall through the cracks).
1: State your claim in this thread.
2: send me an email (not a private message) carothersknives at gmail dought com
The email should include what you are buying, your BladeForums handle (i.e.: "Nathan the Machinist"), your actual name, your shipping address and your paypal email address.
I will send a PayPal invoice to that email.
3. Pay the paypal invoice. Once it is paid, I will ship your order to the name and address you gave in your order email.
If you don't want to use paypal, we can arrange to send a check.
Quantities are limited, sales are based upon first come first serve who posts their order in this thread. I have to do it this way to keep things sane.
3rd wheel adapter $25 (you probably don't need this) (qty 25)
Axle Hardware $10 per axle (you probably don't need this either) (qty I will order these at the end of next week based upon demand)
Flat rate shipping in the USA $15
Please read and understand what this is before buying. There's a good chance you don't need any of it, and a very good chance you don't need all of it, so please understand what this is before buying it.
I have a KMG grinder that has served me well for a long time. We put an enormous amount of work across that grinder, it's a work horse. When we added Mark I got another KMG grinder for him. The new grinder was a disappointment, it was not made as straight as the old grinder so there were tracking issues and a big part of it came down to the C plate. I decided to make myself some new C plates and that was the origin of this project. If you are having tracking issues, and those issues are due to your C plate, this will help address your problem.
For me, the main tracking issue wasn't wobble and instability, is was an inability to track in reverse. I do 90% of the sharpening process in reverse and I also grind plunges lengthwise on a special platen in reverse. I go back and forth from forward to reverse a lot. To me a grinder that can't do this isn't worth much.
This grinder is dialed in well
A grinder that is dialed in well can even track in both directions without using the tracking wheel
The OEM is not using the best aluminum to make the C plates. It isn't flat and the extrusion direction is going the wrong way because extrusions tend to be more or less straight in the direction of extrusion (it gets stretched) but can get a little wonky perpendicular to that axis.
This was the problem C plate, it was probably .020" out
This was the old C plate that worked pretty well, it was probably .010" out
This is my C plate that I made from quality aluminum and decked flat, I'm sure it's not perfect but it's pretty close.
Also, the original axle mounting holes are simply drilled and tapped, which not a high precision hole.
After I face the material, my holes are CNC circular interpolated for an accurate hole then CNC single point thread milled. This gives me a truly accurate perpendicular thread feature
So, if your grinder is giving you tracking problems and if your problem is related to a poorly made C plate, this will help your problem.
I added some 1/4-20 threaded holes to the design for fixturing so I could deck it and make the important hole features in one setup without clamping across it. These holes are not an important feature of the design but they don't hurt anything. However they do allow the addition of a 3rd wheel. I have a use for this for a process we do here so I made a few 3rd wheel adapters if it's something you have a use for
I'm not sure what you might use this for, but I would encourage you to be safe and fabricate any guards you might need if you're going to build anything too crazy.
And lastly I have an axle hardware kit for $10 each
You probably don't need one of these, but some of the hardware that came with my KMG wasn't the best and had a drunken thread and the nut was more suitable for a farming implement than an accurate spindle assembly. So I'm using a high quality Socket Head Cap screw from Unbrako, their part number 120761, they have some of the best manufacturing practices in the industry. It is MSC item number 67807248. And I'm replacing the nut with a fully machined Gibraltar check nut, MSC PN 77414076, it is the correct dimensions and it much more accurate than a common nut.
If you would like to order something here, I need you to please follow these instructions to help me keep up with everything (otherwise folks will fall through the cracks).
1: State your claim in this thread.
2: send me an email (not a private message) carothersknives at gmail dought com
The email should include what you are buying, your BladeForums handle (i.e.: "Nathan the Machinist"), your actual name, your shipping address and your paypal email address.
I will send a PayPal invoice to that email.
3. Pay the paypal invoice. Once it is paid, I will ship your order to the name and address you gave in your order email.
If you don't want to use paypal, we can arrange to send a check.
Quantities are limited, sales are based upon first come first serve who posts their order in this thread. I have to do it this way to keep things sane.
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