Activity: Pitch Glue

Joined
Nov 5, 2009
Messages
538
Hello everyone,

It is winter in my part of the world, and this season brings a whole host of harvests and activities!
It is a time to flake some stone tools, to carve, and also to make some pitch! :D

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Pitch, or sap resin, is the premier, easy to make, and most readily available natural glue out there. Hide glue may be the stronger, but it doesn't coat like pitch. Pitch glue has been used for eons, from the Arctic to Rome to Australia, as it comes from many sap yielding sources.


It's use is multi-fold. I use it to haft stone blades or tips to wooden or bone implements, I use it to patch cracks or seal holes, seal knots, and it makes an excellent fire igniter. Mixed with the sap of Milkweed (Asclepias spp.) and natural dyes it is an excellent waterproof paint or sealant for sinew, cordage, and more.

Because of it's versatile use and function, I always carry some with me! I put it in seashells, acorn shells, or wrapped on sticks.

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The making of pitch is very easy, and requires very little in the way of ingredients. Once you understand the basic concept in mix, you can experiment with a whole variety of different natural substances. There are many recipes, but few that could be called 'all-around use' pitch. For this reason, many consider pitch to be weak, or too brittle. Yet, there are always better ways to make it, and have it be flexible to mold, hard when dry and durable so as not to chip or snap.

The Recipe for Today:
-Pine sap (can be from Douglas Fir, Birch, etc. as well, Birch yields a very fine, thin resin) that I placed in a tin with a perforated bottom,
-wood charcoal from the fire,
-dry deer scat (A spring cake but still dry! This is among the last of my dry herbivore scat from early in the year. Dry crushed grasses, leaves, sawdust, bone dust will all work as well. And yes, I do stock up on dry deer scat, but can't keep it in the house! :p)
-In addition, I will be adding beeswax. Fat can also be substituted but gives a somewhat different consistency.

The Tools:
-a tin with holes poked in the bottom (pitch goes in this one and sifts out debris),
-a larger tin that holds the first, to catch the melted resin
-a billet/digging stick,
-a pointed stick to gather the final product with,
-and a stirring/scraping stick.

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The Process:
I begin with the preparation. Prep is my 'ritual time' if you will. The more I put into the preparation, the more assured I am of the quality. It is a time to gather all tools and ingredients.

Mashing and grinding the dry scat and charcoal to fine powder, breaking the beeswax into smaller pieces, and heating up the pine sap.

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Note: I am going for a certain type of consistency and look with this batch. I have been making a few indigenous Australian tool replicas and want to imitate the warm, rich, colorful resin they utilize from native resin yielders like Spinifex and Xanthorroea...




More to come!!!:D
 
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The Process Continues:

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Once the sap has reduced fully, pull out the inner tin with the holes. Because there are two tins with liquid in between, it functions as a double boiler, meaning less burning and sticking, as well as ability to use bare hands. Scrape off the bottom of the inner tin.

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Adding a little charcoal. Not too much. I used about a half of the charcoal shown.

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Add scat. I make a rule to always use more scat or dry grass material than charcoal. I used all of the scat pictured here.

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Beeswax. I added about 2 pieces like the one shown.

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Stir it up!:thumbup:


More to come!!:D
 
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The Process Continues:

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I take it off the heat and let sit for about 10-15 min. I get the pointed stick and begin by dipping it and letting it cool, then dipping again, like making a candle. I use my hands to mold it. It won't stick to your fingers if it is a good consistency.

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The end result on the left. A pitch stick. Compared with a pitch stick on the right, which was made in the bush almost two years ago, with only sap, charcoal and scat. See the difference in texture the beeswax brings. This is the look I was going for. Both have their uses. This new batch, I must say, is impressive! For using a pitch stick, just heat a little pitch at the tip and apply!;)

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One of my favorite recipes; this one is a winner!



Now to put it to use on my projects!!!! Stay tuned....



Have fun out there! :D
 
Too damn cool. I'm doing it. I do have a pound or so of flake hide glue but I love the making of stuff like this.

Thanks for the effort, it's appreciated.
 
Very cool. I have done that to but with out adding the charcoal.

thanks for posting.

Bryan
 
:oSorry for butting in so quickly, Joe.
It was such a neat topic that I got all excited.
 
if one was to scrape off pitch glue powder, will it take a spark

The times that I have tried it with a firesteel, it did not work.

It requires a little more exposure to start. But it goes fierce and spreads once it does. Lends to its use in history for torches and such!

I have noticed that certain blends take flame easier however. The more charcoal, the easier it takes. This batch, for example, doesn't light much at all, it just heats up. I didn't really use much charcoal, nor was it really needed, but it adds to the binding ability, density, and augments the amount. I could easily imagine a pitch recipe that would take a spark.

I used to make 'fireballs' of sap rolled with minced dry pine needles and cattail fluff encased in protective paper. Worked great in cold climates.



BTW, Jeff H, no worries! You can butt in any time you want!:D
 
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great stuff man... i need to try making some of that again... the last time i tried, it was a messy failure...:o
 
Bryan, add a little charcoal next time, let me know what you think! I find it really adds to the binding and hardening aspects of pitch. But just a couple pinches, a little goes a long way!

This recipe is a serious blend! Tough and hard! Coat the end of a throwing stick or finishing club to protect the wood and add more weight and density, seal your hafts for good.

I'm doing this very thing right now with the new batch...:thumbup:
 
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Very cool stuff and really original thread content. Thanks for your time and efforts.
 
Nice post Joe. Do you have anyway to estimate the quantities used? Grams? Tablespoons?

It looks like a bit of trial and error to get the consistency you are looking for, but how does varying the ingredients alter the dried and hardened product? E.g. more fat make it more pliable, more deer scat makes it set harder/more brittle.

Very cool thread, something I've wanted to try for a while, thanks for the inspiration.
 
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