Advice to New and Want-to-be Makers

Not using my real name is my first mistake here.
Could you advise where the best place is to introduce myself as a long time maker and occasional lurker?
 
Post a thread in Shop Talk with a title something like, "Just wanted to introduce myself." Tell the chaps here who you are and a bit about your knives. Photos are always a great way to show what your knives are like..
 
Hi I am a first time knife-maker and I found a website that will quench my blade but they only accept air quenchable stock. I am using a piece of 1095 high carbon steel and am inquiring on wether this this material would fit the requirements. Thanks!
 
No 1095 needs rapid cool, best to use high speed quench oil by Houston or parks but, hot canola or heavily salted brine from water you could do yourself? You risk possible crack with water and you might not get 100% cooling rate on canola but air hardening is typically stainless steels where the continual cooling curve has a much longer window than high carbon steels like 1095
 
What someone like you will usually do on Bladeforums is place the shop name as his title under the username. You will have to upgrade to a Knifemaker membership to do it.
Look at JT's and my avatar to see how that will look.
What people will see is
David W Babcock
Black Metal Forge
 
Hi Stacey,

just hoping you can point me in the right direction....I upgraded the membership but cannot seem to locate where I can adjust title and shop name so I can have it appear as you suggested above?
 
Go to the top of the page where your name is. Hover over your name and when the box drops down select Personal Details. You will see the info on the right for your avatar and other stuff. Right below the avatar you will see the box - Custom Title. Type what you want to show below your avatar there.
 
I’ll try on my computer later, maybe I’m just dumb lol, but I see no custom title area!
 
When you click Personal Details you will see your current avatar to the right side of the page. Right under the avatar is the box "Custom Title". If you leave it blank, you get the default "Knifemaker ….Provider" title. Type in what you want it to say and then save the changes ( bottom of page).
 
This thread is a sticky. The "stickys" are threads that are permanently stuck at the top of the page. They have information and advice that are valuable info or frequently asked questions.
 
This thread is a sticky. The "stickys" are threads that are permanently stuck at the top of the page. They have information and advice that are valuable info or frequently asked questions.
 
I hope i'm putting this in the right place, i'm new to any and all kinds of forums. I'm considering buying some .100 cpm 3v bar stock and grinding a blade to my dimensions and length desired. just looking for a bit of guidance on the grind angles because I would just be guessing. Solid advice about what heat treater to use would also be appreciated. I've had experience grinding a number of blades out of free scrap circular saw blades and my hand is practiced there, but it's different when messing with 50$ worth of steel.
 
coyotes220 said:
I hope i'm putting this in the right place, i'm new to any and all kinds of forums. I'm considering buying some .100 cpm 3v bar stock and grinding a blade to my dimensions and length desired. just looking for a bit of guidance on the grind angles because I would just be guessing. Solid advice about what heat treater to use would also be appreciated. I've had experience grinding a number of blades out of free scrap circular saw blades and my hand is practiced there, but it's different when messing with 50$ worth of steel.
Click to expand...

this is an actual thread. You might want to try posting under
 
Sorry not sure why that was cut off, but under knife makers discussions....although I think you need a paid membership for this.

Also there are Sticky’s as Stacey mentioned even making this post that if you do a search on the steel type you may find lots of info on without others having to repeat it.

this was a separate thread on forum usage, not intended I believe for question posting about a specific material or knife construction but Stacey is the OP not myself so I don’t want to speak for him. Having said that he references using as many details in your name and profile if your serious about this, and makes reference to sticky’s - why I tried to steer you to a different type of forum
 
OK, thanks for your help. as mentioned I'm new to forums and certainly green in this one. Just an amateur redneck trying to learn.
 
Post your question as a new thread in Shop Talk. You will get lots of advice. You don't need to worry about angles. make the blade a full flat grind (FFG). The edge should end up about .005 to .010" wide before HT. Folks like JT are good HT sources. Once cleaned up after HT, the final edge angle is usually around 25° to 30°inclusive ( 12.5° to 15° per side) for a kitchen knife and 30° to 40° inclusive for a user.

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/jt-heat-treating-service.1701749/
 
I’d try to help but I have little experien
coyotes220 said:
OK, thanks for your help. as mentioned I'm new to forums and certainly green in this one. Just an amateur redneck trying to learn.
Click to expand...

I’d try to help but unfortunately have little experience with 3V. I have used some CPM steel primarily CPM 154. The only advice I can give is on anything less than 1/8” thickness you probably want to heat treat before grinding. I know some makers have success with thin steel and just air cooling as with stainless you get 2-2.5 min depending on the steel to skip the pearlite nose. Unlike carbon steels that need very quick temperature drops. I however due to the high austenite temps (stainless usually needs a 5-15 min soak at 1900-2000 deg, I use a kiln for this) I find even moving it around if thin it might warp.

I’d suggest a plate quench (2 pieces of milled aluminum 1.5” thick by however wide/long you want. Mine are actually 2”x5”x18” for larger pieces, but I make some big knives!) in two min with that thickness you’ll be fine and it will prevent warpage.

Then grind and polish, after temper (stainless usually lower 300’s unless doing a chopper so based on your thickness probably in the neighborhood of 300-350 at least twice for an hour but better to do twice at two hours). Watch your blade heat after tempering, when grinding dip in water often if no cooling mist set up.

ok just pulled up crucibles page...lol this is why it’s important to understand the steel your working with. They are suggesting much much higher temper temps like 1000 deg.

here’s the link but do a forum search on 3V from the forum, maybe someone here has a good deal of experience that I don’t have!

https://www.crucible.com/eselector/prodbyapp/tooldie/cpm3vt.html
 
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