Advice

George Azar said:
I just did a comparison of a WWII and a M43. Very close to being the same in thickness. For the most part my WWII's are thicker(depends on the kami). The extra strength lies in the M43 having a full tang. I really don't have a favorite because I love ALL of H. I. Kukris!
Depends on the application.
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Wew, boy. I'm surprised you didn't kick off a firestorm there, buddy. ^_^

Two entirely different beasts. WWII is kinda more tool-first, lopping weapon second. M43, vice versa. Plus, pointier and just generally more martial feeling. Because of the M43 blade profile, it doesn't really give up anything in the chopping department to the WWII.

The WWII has that bullnose on it, and a flatter "sweet spot," so some people find that more useful for wilderness wood working. It was Uncle Bill's favorite model.

It just boils down to what feels/looks better to the individual and what they can make work, completely subjective.
****
In regards to tangs....HI kuks don't really have rat tails...better to say "kangaroo tails." Still a lot of metal hidden under that handle. The main differences between a "hidden tang" and "Chiruwa" (Full tang) is the balance and weight distribution, shock transfer, and arguably, ease of replacing handles. Might be easier to hammer a section of branch on as a kuk handle than trying to carve out new scales (and pin them) in the wilderness.

"Hidden tang" kuks don't transfer the shock of the blade hitting your target into your hand as much, which some people find more forgiving if they have a long day of swinging in front of them. Others, the full tang doesn't bother them. Again, subjective.

Basically, if you have a big honkin' kuk, by having a "full tang" it moves the balance point closer to the handle. A "hidden tang" means the blade's going to be more top heavy. Again, depends on how the individual likes their blade to balance.


Honestly, the only time "full tang" vs "hidden" enters my thought process is if I'm going to baton. There should be zero chance of breaking an HI Kuk while batoning, simply because there's a giant working area on the blade. Shouldn't be anywhere near the handle, and odds are, you're just going to break the handle material.
 
TheQuest said:
Wew, boy. I'm surprised you didn't kick off a firestorm there, buddy. ^_^

Two entirely different beasts. WWII is kinda more tool-first, lopping weapon second. M43, vice versa. Plus, pointier and just generally more martial feeling. Because of the M43 blade profile, it doesn't really give up anything in the chopping department to the WWII.

The WWII has that bullnose on it, and a flatter "sweet spot," so some people find that more useful for wilderness wood working. It was Uncle Bill's favorite model.

It just boils down to what feels/looks better to the individual and what they can make work, completely subjective.
****
In regards to tangs....HI kuks don't really have rat tails...better to say "kangaroo tails." Still a lot of metal hidden under that handle. The main differences between a "hidden tang" and "Chiruwa" (Full tang) is the balance and weight distribution, shock transfer, and arguably, ease of replacing handles. Might be easier to hammer a section of branch on as a kuk handle than trying to carve out new scales (and pin them) in the wilderness.

"Hidden tang" kuks don't transfer the shock of the blade hitting your target into your hand as much, which some people find more forgiving if they have a long day of swinging in front of them. Others, the full tang doesn't bother them. Again, subjective.

Basically, if you have a big honkin' kuk, by having a "full tang" it moves the balance point closer to the handle. A "hidden tang" means the blade's going to be more top heavy. Again, depends on how the individual likes their blade to balance.


Honestly, the only time "full tang" vs "hidden" enters my thought process is if I'm going to baton. There should be zero chance of breaking an HI Kuk while batoning, simply because there's a giant working area on the blade. Shouldn't be anywhere near the handle, and odds are, you're just going to break the handle material.
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Thanks for the pointers as I'm new to the market! I'll take in all the info people are willing to dish out!
 
No problem! I'm by no means an authority, I just had the good luck to get into H.I. before they "updated" the forum and broke like 90% of the links to old posts.
 
TheQuest said:
No problem! I'm by no means an authority, I just had the good luck to get into H.I. before they "updated" the forum and broke like 90% of the links to old posts.
Click to expand...
The Ang Khola and the WWII have a very similar curvature about them. How do they compare in overall performance?
......let's say, the 18" model?
 
I haven't used the Ang Khola, but if I remember correctly what others have said in the past, the WWII is lighter and faster, so it's more suitable as a weapon or machete. The Ang Khola is heavier and slower, but chops wood better. I like the speed of a lighter blade most of the time, because speed helps with chopping too, and it's less tiring. Other people might have the exact opposite preferences, compared to mine.

I just felt like the WWII was a good compromise, with a nice balance of diverse traits, while other blades are more specialized. My thinking at the time I bought it was, if I own only 1 Himalayan Imports kukri, it should be the WWII. For people that own many blades, specialization is beneficial, but if you only have one, it could be limiting.
 
I am a due hard advocate of the M43.
More blade drop than most ww2's, resulting in more chopping force. Totally different edge geometry, providing greatly increased shearing power.
The point stays pointed front when the hand is in the natural grip, great for stabbing.
Best of you get one with the weight under 28 ounces.
Fantastic extremely versatile survival blade!
 
wildmike said:
I am a due hard advocate of the M43.
More blade drop than most ww2's, resulting in more chopping force. Totally different edge geometry, providing greatly increased shearing power.
The point stays pointed front when the hand is in the natural grip, great for stabbing.
Best of you get one with the weight under 28 ounces.
Fantastic extremely versatile survival blade!
Click to expand...

I love my M43, I fully agree with Mike on all accounts!
 
TheQuest said:
Wew, boy. I'm surprised you didn't kick off a firestorm there, buddy. ^_^

Two entirely different beasts. WWII is kinda more tool-first, lopping weapon second. M43, vice versa. Plus, pointier and just generally more martial feeling. Because of the M43 blade profile, it doesn't really give up anything in the chopping department to the WWII.

The WWII has that bullnose on it, and a flatter "sweet spot," so some people find that more useful for wilderness wood working. It was Uncle Bill's favorite model.

It just boils down to what feels/looks better to the individual and what they can make work, completely subjective.
****
In regards to tangs....HI kuks don't really have rat tails...better to say "kangaroo tails." Still a lot of metal hidden under that handle. The main differences between a "hidden tang" and "Chiruwa" (Full tang) is the balance and weight distribution, shock transfer, and arguably, ease of replacing handles. Might be easier to hammer a section of branch on as a kuk handle than trying to carve out new scales (and pin them) in the wilderness.

"Hidden tang" kuks don't transfer the shock of the blade hitting your target into your hand as much, which some people find more forgiving if they have a long day of swinging in front of them. Others, the full tang doesn't bother them. Again, subjective.

Basically, if you have a big honkin' kuk, by having a "full tang" it moves the balance point closer to the handle. A "hidden tang" means the blade's going to be more top heavy. Again, depends on how the individual likes their blade to balance.


Honestly, the only time "full tang" vs "hidden" enters my thought process is if I'm going to baton. There should be zero chance of breaking an HI Kuk while batoning, simply because there's a giant working area on the blade. Shouldn't be anywhere near the handle, and odds are, you're just going to break the handle material.
Click to expand...


Awesome! I always wondered why my M43 felt 'weapony'. I always thought it was more utility..it's just so bombproof.

There we go again, making me want another. The WWII sounds great! I am very much utility and wood focused...and was thinking about a flatter sweet spot. I love that about the pen knife and I was thinking I am unbelievably overdue for getting a Tamang.

I really do love the non-chiruwa models, they do have a special feel when using.

Oh and I don't have an AK yet either so there is that... or a bowie.. ouch ;)
 
stwm said:
Awesome! I always wondered why my M43 felt 'weapony'. I always thought it was more utility..it's just so bombproof.
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You really can't go wrong with an M43 if it clicks with you. I think the "weapony" bit is explained because it's just a well-integrated design. It really feels like an extension of your arm. Swinging it just feels natural, and you're not constantly having to wonder where the blade is headed. As Wildmike noted, the blade bevels and profile let it aggressively throw out chunks, it can stand its ground against most of the others. Possibly with the exception of the dedicated choppers like the Bonecutters and Ganga family.

Personally, I didn't really click with the WWII. I'm not sure if it was the design, or just that specific model. (A long handled villager.) Maybe it was just on the light side for me, but it felt kind of awkward.

I love it, (M43) and the BAS is a spunky little fellow too. Definitely don't overlook that little guy. Don't be put off by the dual material handles, either. The one Ram made, he integrated the wood and horn pretty seamlessly.

It's definitely worth giving the WWII a try when the next one pops.

I don't have an AK, but I have a CAK, I'm still working on our relationship. She's definitely solid, the first blade Yangdu sent me.

Now...the AK Bowie....my goodness. The first night home, I just sat at my desk holding her. Just....yeah. You really can't help smiling while holding one.
 
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George Azar said:
The Ang Khola and the WWII have a very similar curvature about them. How do they compare in overall performance?
......let's say, the 18" model?
Click to expand...

The AKs and CAKs are dedicated wood processors. The WWII is a bit more jack of all trades.

Curvature is only one part of the equation. Take a look at the WWII you picked up. There's a flat face, and then the primary edge bevel. The WWII edges (at least on the one I had) are/was more "slicey." aka, a shallower angle. It can still chop, but it might not be a chip thrower. Then again, it may. Gotta try it out.

On the AKs and CAKs, they generally have steeper primary bevels, kinda more ax-like. This means they're better suited to throwing out chips when you smack something with them. Also, if you have one that's...say 16", but it still weighs 30oz, that means you have more metal concentrated in a smaller space. It's going to affect how the blade drives through the target.

You more than likely already have a blade with fullers in it, the things that look like ripples in water. The analogy usually used is it's a quasi I-beam....less metal, just as strong. One of the effects of the fullers, is you end up with less metal in contact with the surface of the wood. So, say, if you're batoning your kukri through a log, the steeper primary bevel and the fullers can give the AK/CAK the edge (;)) on splitting wood over the WWII.

*****

I'm not sure how much you've used your kuks yet. There's a technique to it. Basically, one way, the only time you're doing any work is when you're lifting it. Then you just kinda...let it fall. Then, lift and repeat. The weight does almost all of the work.

Now...the lighter the blade, the more effort you have to put into making up the difference by building up speed. So on one hand, you're not working as hard to lift it, but you're working harder to build up the speed on target.

Regarding blade edges: Some kuks, they hit the tree, and they'll literally spit out wood chips. Others, if the edge is narrower, will just penetrate and stop. No issue, you just pull it out and change the angle, just like you do with an axe. Either leave the kukri as is, or if you have experience sharpening blades, and the equipment, you can try re-profiling the edge. The kami's are generally *really* good at putting an appropriate edge on the models though. Every blade is different, you just have to learn its quirks and adjust.

Honestly, probably the most you're going to want to do is put a convex edge on it. The profiles should be fine. There have been cases where the helpers put a bad angle on the blade, but those are few and far between.
 
wildmike said:
I am a due hard advocate of the M43.
More blade drop than most ww2's, resulting in more chopping force. Totally different edge geometry, providing greatly increased shearing power.
The point stays pointed front when the hand is in the natural grip, great for stabbing.
Best of you get one with the weight under 28 ounces.
Fantastic extremely versatile survival blade!
Click to expand...

Here's a thread about wildmike's 'famous' M43, for some background:

"This is the M43 Kukri I used to build a couple trappers cabins and several dozen other shelters during my several year survival living slog..."
http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/my-famous-m43-kukri.1041119/


 
Bear in mind, almost everything I said up there is subjective. Different people, different techniques, different stances. Everything is different between people and blades.

Overall performance: Again, subjective. You might be able to make the AK tightrope blindfolded and completely hate the feel of the WWII, or vice versa. The only way to know is to try them out, and if it doesn't work out, just pass the blade on to a new loving home. For example, out of the CAK, WWII, and M43, the only one that's really "clicked" with me so far is the M43. Take everything said on these forums with a grain of salt. At the end, you just have to take a chance.

Give the WWII some time, let it grow on you. If you're still itching for an AK (you will be, just the name of the game) pick one up from a DOTD. ^_^
 
TheQuest said:
Bear in mind, almost everything I said up there is subjective. Different people, different techniques, different stances. Everything is different between people and blades.

Overall performance: Again, subjective. You might be able to make the AK tightrope blindfolded and completely hate the feel of the WWII, or vice versa. The only way to know is to try them out, and if it doesn't work out, just pass the blade on to a new loving home. For example, out of the CAK, WWII, and M43, the only one that's really "clicked" with me so far is the M43. Take everything said on these forums with a grain of salt. At the end, you just have to take a chance.

Give the WWII some time, let it grow on you. If you're still itching for an AK (you will be, just the name of the game) pick one up from a DOTD. ^_^
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Thank you for all the advice! I'm soaking up everything! The sad thing is I have all the blades and have never used them! I talked to aunti a little while ago and have 5 more blades coming!
 
If I could have only one (oh, may the day never come) it would have to be the M43. I had a custom made and it does yeoman's work, but it is definitely a defensive weapon first. For what I would term a "full sized khuk", I love mine almost (read ALMOST) as much as my Sunday Go To Meetin' World's Bestest Curved Spine--eat yer heart out Bawanna--I've learned to throw it at targets as I would my knives and tomahawks. It holds up, stays sharp, and is thus seriously considered THE khuk of my collection. I like it so well that it has a name: Mother Superior. As a side note, my fav small khuk is none other than the little Katunje. Mrs. Martino sold me on her "personal" model of khuk.
 
Everyone knows bawanna has the bestest curved spine. Bookies is a real fine example and runs a close but second place, read "second place".
Bless his little pea pickin heart for including me on a package deal on the Katunjes. Yangdu's special knife with her name engraved and both Nepal earthquake survivors to boot.
 
Bawanna, I have decided to sell my little beloved Yangdu Katunje. Only $1,000,000.00 and you absolutely know it's gonna be a feeding frenzy at that low price! First come, first served--no holding or reservations accepted. US or genuine CSA currency, gold, diamonds, rubies, or 1928 nickles only. These earth quake survivors are rare beasties.
 
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