Advice

Here are 4 so-so quality photos of my gorgeous M43. Old hat to the older members, so forgive me for being repetitious. I throw at an average of 18 paces. With the fragile butt shape one needs to be careful and accurate.
M43a sm.JPG M43b - Copy.JPG M43i sm.JPG 18 paces - Copy.jpg
M43a-sm.jpg
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M43h-sm.jpg
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Bookie said:
Bawanna, I have decided to sell my little beloved Yangdu Katunje. Only $1,000,000.00 and you absolutely know it's gonna be a feeding frenzy at that low price! First come, first served--no holding or reservations accepted. US or genuine CSA currency, gold, diamonds, rubies, or 1928 nickles only. These earth quake survivors are rare beasties.
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How much is the shipping?
 
TheQuest said:
The AKs and CAKs are dedicated wood processors. The WWII is a bit more jack of all trades.

Curvature is only one part of the equation. Take a look at the WWII you picked up. There's a flat face, and then the primary edge bevel. The WWII edges (at least on the one I had) are/was more "slicey." aka, a shallower angle. It can still chop, but it might not be a chip thrower. Then again, it may. Gotta try it out.

On the AKs and CAKs, they generally have steeper primary bevels, kinda more ax-like. This means they're better suited to throwing out chips when you smack something with them. Also, if you have one that's...say 16", but it still weighs 30oz, that means you have more metal concentrated in a smaller space. It's going to affect how the blade drives through the target.

You more than likely already have a blade with fullers in it, the things that look like ripples in water. The analogy usually used is it's a quasi I-beam....less metal, just as strong. One of the effects of the fullers, is you end up with less metal in contact with the surface of the wood. So, say, if you're batoning your kukri through a log, the steeper primary bevel and the fullers can give the AK/CAK the edge (;)) on splitting wood over the WWII.

*****

I'm not sure how much you've used your kuks yet. There's a technique to it. Basically, one way, the only time you're doing any work is when you're lifting it. Then you just kinda...let it fall. Then, lift and repeat. The weight does almost all of the work.

Now...the lighter the blade, the more effort you have to put into making up the difference by building up speed. So on one hand, you're not working as hard to lift it, but you're working harder to build up the speed on target.

Regarding blade edges: Some kuks, they hit the tree, and they'll literally spit out wood chips. Others, if the edge is narrower, will just penetrate and stop. No issue, you just pull it out and change the angle, just like you do with an axe. Either leave the kukri as is, or if you have experience sharpening blades, and the equipment, you can try re-profiling the edge. The kami's are generally *really* good at putting an appropriate edge on the models though. Every blade is different, you just have to learn its quirks and adjust.

Honestly, probably the most you're going to want to do is put a convex edge on it. The profiles should be fine. There have been cases where the helpers put a bad angle on the blade, but those are few and far between.
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Thank you for all your advice as I'm reading and learning from you guys! I've probably bought 25-30 Khukris from H.I. In the last 2 months! I love these bargain priced, beautiful and effective knives!
I've bought hand forged knives in the last 30+ years from various makers from the ABS (American Bladesmith Society). When I found H.I. Knives, I felt like I found the Holy Grail of knives!
ABS is a group of knife makers bringing back the lost art of the hand forged blade where Nepal never lost the art as its their way of life from many many generations!
Thank you for taking the time to educate means eventually I plan to start "using" these knives myself instead of "visually" enjoying them!
George
 
Will you take 999,999.99 for it? Ill give you askin price if you send me that voodoo doll with the likes of ndog;). Send the pins too please! You dont need to be anywhere near them things.
 
George Azar said:
Thank you for all your advice as I'm reading and learning from you guys! I've probably bought 25-30 Khukris from H.I. In the last 2 months! I love these bargain priced, beautiful and effective knives!
I've bought hand forged knives in the last 30+ years from various makers from the ABS (American Bladesmith Society). When I found H.I. Knives, I felt like I found the Holy Grail of knives!
ABS is a group of knife makers bringing back the lost art of the hand forged blade where Nepal never lost the art as its their way of life from many many generations!
Thank you for taking the time to educate means eventually I plan to start "using" these knives myself instead of "visually" enjoying them!
George
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A typo correction..Thank you for taking the time to educate me. And eventually I plan to start "using" these knives myself instead of "visually" enjoying them!
George
 
I know i am late to the party but add a few cents, i purchased my m43 at full retail off her site as yangdu did not indicate she had any that were to be discounted. After asking this same question i was led to a posting of how one man built some cabins with his m43.

The good so far is virtually indestructable heavy and able to chop through anything. I have cut 6in live trees down now with mine, splits logs for fire wood and obliterates kindling. Fit and finish is phenomenal.

The downside for me at least is that the hand grip is FAT super comfy but needs to be thinned out , i just cant make myself do that just yet. The overall weight is awesome for chopping. For carry not so much.

Other than that it rocks dont wait to scoop one up on dod if you want one.

For edc i would recommend a foxy folly a tin chirra or a sirupati, currently in my truck is a 15.5 16 oz foxy folly it is light fast agile and intimidating.

My 15 in 16 oz sirupati is the one to wear if you want a lightning fast khuk with slicing power and wearability/ carryability. As well as sexy.

The tin chirra i have is 17 " 19 or 20 oz. It is sexy and rotates for trips in the truck. Would not do any chopping with it other than light brush work.

If you want an in between keep your eye out for a gopte mine is 16.5 27 oz full tang but with a wider blade than a cak and handles beautifully. This is my preference now between a cak and m43.

A Cak Chiruwa ang khola in 14.5 - 16 inch range is also middle of the road and virtually unbreakable. Mine is a little uncomfortable for some things but powerful.

Definitely do not wait to order a klvuk as they range 50-70 ish and are probably the most utilitarian khuk out there.
Hope this helps.

Enjoy
 
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