Advise on Steel Type To Use For Hard Use Hunter/Camp Knife -

R

rlinger

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Mar 29, 2002
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It will be used for just about 'you name it' around the camp and in the hunting field.

The blade is to be 5 to 6 inches. I can make it from either stainless or non-stainless but it will not be of damascus. Thinking 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick bar stock. What steel would you use?

Thanks.

RL
 
Why S7 of course. ;)



I will send you a piece to try if you would like Roger. Let me know.
Mark
 
I am sure Peter Nap would approve. :) I just am going to do my best to start a S7 cult. I will have to make more and better knives to get any memebers to join, but hey we all need our dreams right? Maybe I need a robe or something... :rolleyes: ;)
 
Well Mark does that mean that the heat treat on that big S7 worked out pretty good? ;)

RL
 
Yes Roger your heat treatment was first class. I have recommended you to several people and to anyone reading this. So far I am impressed with S7. It has taken some heavy hits with very, very little edge damage, better then most of my Himalayan Imports khukuris (which are as close to bomb proof as you can get). You can't cut miles of carpet with it but it holds a edge fairly well and is easy to sharpen.
 
There are several good choices for that kind of knife Rodger. 5160 with brass guard, 5160 with 440c guard or 5160 with a 5160 guard! ;)
 
Peter, seems like you favor 5160 with any kind of side dish. Actually, this knife will have no guard or bolsters - only micarta scales.

Mark, thanks for the adda-boy and I am happy it performs as well as you report.

RL
 
Yep, I'm with the Peter Pan Dude. But it is with 5160 and hot blued 1018 hardware. I hate wasting :eek: :eek: hi-carb on hardware.
 
I am also considering S30V but I don't think it will fit into the budget. The S30V I have now is probably not wide enough for this blade and the last S30V I bought I had to get 6 foot of or spend 100 bucks for 18 inches of it from Crucible. RWL-34 might just be a choice. I think I prefer carbon steel for this one anyhow.

RL
 
I'd take 52100 overr 5160. For stainless I'd choose AEB-L, but you probably don't have that, so you can rule that one out.
 
Not to steal the thread but ....Dan, that is the best advertising you will ever get! Nothing like a happy customer that likes to brag on his chopper!

Sorry Rodger...back to the subject!
 
peter nap said:
Not to steal the thread but ....Dan, that is the best advertising you will ever get! Nothing like a happy customer that likes to brag on his chopper!

Sorry Rodger...back to the subject!
Click to expand...

to keep OT
1095 for stock grinding is not really my cup of tea, but for this stuff type chopping I'd be hard pressed to use somthing else..
Tommy bought two more from me and is still on his frist one bEEp BeEp :D
he tell's me he's cutting 6" oak with it :D

and yes he sings and is one of the horton's remember north to Alaska :)

opps topic 1095 yeahup :p
 
I would go with the Champaloy L6. A person would be hard pressed to find a better steel for what you are describing, given a proper heat treat.
 
Yes 440B can be oil hardened. 440B has lower carbon than 440C , it's similar to AUS8 and a bit tougher than 440C, more suitable for impact. My agrussell kukri is 440B.
 
Danbo said:
I would go with the Champaloy L6. A person would be hard pressed to find a better steel for what you are describing, given a proper heat treat.
Click to expand...

yes a good point ..
L6 would be my 2nd choice over the old standby
but could be a favorite once I get messing with more
and more. but O1/L6 combo is looking even better to me.
always looking for better :)
 
i would highly recommend 5160 over anything else. the resilience ? for shock is there and it is a proven cutter with superior edge holding capabilities over stainless. Can you tell i just spent the last week with Bill Bagwell showing me how to forge blades? I have an opinion on 52100 now if you want it as well
 
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