AEB-L and S35VN comparison

I have some mystery stainless (probably similar to AEB-L but with only 0.55% C) that I run at 7 dps (degrees per side) with a 10 dps microbevel (less than 0.001" wide) and I've cut copper wire, aluminum and a mess of cardboard with no damage. Good steel will go lower than you think. And if I over do it, I just go to a 15 dps microbevel.
 
tim37a said:
James,
I'd really like to see the results of your comparison between AEB-L and S35VN. I have been making all my prototype kitchen knives (chefs, slicers, utility ) out of S35VN.
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So far mine are all Elmax and CPM-154, so obviously I'm interested too. Personally, I prefer the high edge-holding of higher alloy steels, because I'm basically lazy. But a lot of non-pro cooks can't/won't sharpen worth a hoot, and don't have the gear to deal with those steels, so the easier sharpening of a low-alloy steel appeals to them.

It just depends who you ask... hence my desire to be able to offer both.
 
James, I'm finding that most of my customers have no idea at all when it comes to steel. They've heard that carbon steel rusts and stainless doesn't...and that is about the extent of their "knowledge" shall we say. I love talking steel to anyone who will listen, and so far I've convinced all my kitchen knife customers to go with carbon (52100). Since I am branching out into the stainless steels, I may go with your suggestion and offer them the two types (of SS)....one that isn't quite as sharp as the other, but will stay that way. The other being super razor sharp, but needs a bit more maintenance. I know already what most people are going to want.....a steel that stays sharp even if not quite as sharp. Meaning the S35VN may be a great candidate. Expensive tho. Thanks to you all again. Helped me make the decision.....USE BOTH DUMMY!
 
So far, the guys I have been working with have been really into knives, and know how to look after and sharpen them. That being said, my Mother in Law's knives are S35VN. :D
 
me2 said:
I have some mystery stainless (probably similar to AEB-L but with only 0.55% C) that I run at 7 dps (degrees per side) with a 10 dps microbevel (less than 0.001" wide) and I've cut copper wire, aluminum and a mess of cardboard with no damage. Good steel will go lower than you think. And if I over do it, I just go to a 15 dps microbevel.
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This is where testing comes in. If we only did what others before us did, I would still be using O1 and 15N20 at Rc58/59, with 0.025" edges at 30 degrees. That leaves a hell of a lot of performance on the table untapped. :thumbdn:
 
James,

I would use Elmax if I could find a reliable (in stock all the time) supplier with stock in the .10 and .070 thicknesses. Since I haven't been able to I guess S35VN is what I will stay with. Regarding the problem with home cooks not having the equipment to keep it sharp - I am thinking about selling ceramic sticks at a very low markup which should keep the knives sharp for at least 6 months of normal use. After 6 mos. the owner can send them to me or find a local sharpener. We have one in Oregon City who all the local Portland users rave about. I think he charges about $6 per knife.

Tim
 
tim37a said:
James,

I would use Elmax if I could find a reliable (in stock all the time) supplier with stock in the .10 and .070 thicknesses. Since I haven't been able to I guess S35VN is what I will stay with. Regarding the problem with home cooks not having the equipment to keep it sharp - I am thinking about selling ceramic sticks at a very low markup which should keep the knives sharp for at least 6 months of normal use. After 6 mos. the owner can send them to me or find a local sharpener. We have one in Oregon City who all the local Portland users rave about. I think he charges about $6 per knife.

Tim
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I have been providing a strip of leather and some polishing abrasive with the knives. :thumbup: Cheap as can be, and it's a nice touch that is appreciated.
 
Great thread. The direction is towards kitchen knives, I was curious if you all were to switch modes and make a 8"-9" bladed camp knife would you use AEB-L, Elmax or S35Vn?
 
I would go with S35VN for a camp knife, or if the user wasn't hard on knives AEB-L would be fine too. I have no experience with Elmax. Heat treat and geometry are more important than steel, but all being equal, S35VN is pretty tough to beat unless you are looking for that super fine edge. Other steels do that much better.
 
gga357 said:
Great thread. The direction is towards kitchen knives, I was curious if you all were to switch modes and make a 8"-9" bladed camp knife would you use AEB-L, Elmax or S35Vn?
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Elmax. No problem.

S35VN may or may not be tough enough for that sort of shock, I don't know.

AEB-L just isn't available in stock thick enough for what I would call a 9" camp knife (3/16"-1/4" thick). If you don't mind a blade 1/8" thick, more like a short machete, I'm sure it would do quite well.
 
Interesting. I was thinking Elmax, but have no experience with a larger blade in S35Vn.
 
First, my apologies for resurrecting an old thread, but it is very applicable to my current interests. I am having an 8' chef, 6" slicer, and a couple 3" parers made with the intention of passing them to my daughters at some point. I am debating AEB-L and S35VN for material because of the very factors discussed here: ease of sharpening/maintenance of a fine edge vs. longer edge retention.

James, I searched to find what you found as results, but I was unsuccessful. Could you please share what you decided?

james terrio said:
In any case I'll be having kitchen knives (as identical as possible in geometry) in AEB-L and S35VN HT'ed in the next few weeks, so I'll let you know what I find out. I'm pretty sure I have a good idea what I'll find - AEB-L is a lot easier to get really sharp, and S35VN holds it edge longer. That's just the way it generally works when comparing low-carbide-volume, very-fine-grain steels to high-carbide-volume ones. I'll be surprised if there's a huge noticeable difference in toughness between the two in normal kitchen use, but you never know. Abusive testing (chopping 2x4's and whatnot) may be a different story.
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