Aeb-l for a skinner?

rodriguez7

rodriguez7

Gila wilderness knife works
Joined
Feb 1, 2009
Messages
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So, I drew an archery bull elk tag this year, finally!! And I’m building a few blades for the people who are packing in with me! I already built my dad an M2 skinner with elk antler handles. But I’m going to build my uncle one too, but knowing how he doesn’t clean his blades well, I’m wanting to go with a stainless, he’s also not good at sharpening, so I’m thinking of something with no vanadium. How would a high hardness aeb-l skinner work? Has anyone used them for this purpose? I was also thinking, cpm-154, or Cts-xhp. What do you guys think? This will have elk horn handles too, full tang skinner. Thanks. I also have a couple bars of d2, so maybe that could be an option. At least it’s semi stainless.
 
AEB-L would work.

Personally, I would use CPM-S35VN. It gets wicked sharp and holds a good edge. Go for Rc62.
 
That RC for S35VN is within specs but when I’ve made hunters with it I found RC 60 to work just find and if you do want to dress the edge in the field. It won’t be a long time job! Here Is the diff, AEB-L has a fine grain structure and S35VN has a bit chunkier of a grain.. Two schools of thought? Which is better??
 
Having made several in AEB-L the reports from the field have been super positive. Processing 2 complete deer and thrilled they only had to strop it after to bring it back to hair popping.

AEB-L has not let me down from skinner to fighter.
 
AVigil said:
Having made several in AEB-L the reports from the field have been super positive. Processing 2 complete deer and thrilled they only had to strop it after to bring it back to hair popping.

AEB-L has not let me down from skinner to fighter.
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That is cool to hear Adam. I am making some hunting knives of AEBL and have had some other reports that weren't so great.
Mine are at 63 hardness. Should hold an edge well. AEBL can go higher, and I might do that for a dedicated skinner, but anything hitting bone might not work out so well at high hardness.
Any other AEBL reports?
 
Brock Cutlery said:
That is cool to hear Adam. I am making some hunting knives of AEBL and have had some other reports that weren't so great.
Mine are at 63 hardness. Should hold an edge well. AEBL can go higher, and I might do that for a dedicated skinner, but anything hitting bone might not work out so well at high hardness.
Any other AEBL reports?
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I run mine at 62-63 rc.

It is a huge + that they can touch them up in the field quickly and not have to worry about spending a bunch of time getting the edge back.

It really is a stainless that acts like a high carbon blade.

Also important is the edge geometry.

To many makers leave the edge far to thick
 
I have made over 40 drop point hunters in aeb-l. I usually go 59-60rc. Reports have been very good. One my brother gifted to a curmudgeon who I fully expected to blast me about how his old standby knife was better. He called me direct after deer season to inform me he was shocked at how sharp it was and how it went through 3 deer that season with aplomb. That knife replaced "his old standby". Probably the best feedback I've gotten, as this guy would definitely have called me with criticism as well.
 
I processed my last deer, two turkeys and misc small game with an AEB-L hunter at RC 61 and it's honestly my favorite hunting knife ever. I haven't even stropped it with all that use and it can still shave. I plan on using it for elk hunting when I go next year. Good luck on your hunt! I'm jealous.
 
I just sold the 4th one of the same semi skinner pattern to the same guy yesterday in AEB-L. Must be working alright for him. Run em at 62 RC. I have made many hundreds of smaller semi skinners, drop points, bird and trouts etc frome AEB-L and have not had a single critiscsm of the steel. Many folks are EDCing these same blades and not just using them for hunting. Reports of mutiple big game animals with out having to touch it up is the norm not the exception. I make my own leather crafting knives from AEB-L @63 (they are never gonna run into bone). Cutting leather for a living is pretty darn similar to skinning if ya think about it. I often cut leather for 6 to 8 hours at a time. My roundknife is the one tool in the leathershop that is never put away. It lives on the bench, its used. I'll strop often, while cutting, buff the edge occasionally, put back on the grinder for a re sharpening maybe every 3 or 4 months.

As Adam mentioned geometry and thinness behind the edge for this job, is paramount for preformance, regardless of steel.
 
I think I’m going to try aeb-l and probably order a bar of s35vn just to try it. I’m surprised how many people are using Aeb-l for hunting blades. I like the thought of an easy touch up in the field. Thanks everyone.
 
rodriguez7 said:
I think I’m going to try aeb-l and probably order a bar of s35vn just to try it. I’m surprised how many people are using Aeb-l for hunting blades. I like the thought of an easy touch up in the field. Thanks everyone.
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Honestly, I stumbled into it. When I first got into stainless, folks here suggested it as it is relatively inexpensive and performs well. At that point I was making mostly 3-4" drop point hunters and couldn't make enough to keep up with demand for a while. I have since used it for kitchen knives, fighters, oyster knives, filet knives, kiridashis, bushcraft and camp knives. I know other steels can perhaps perform better in specific areas, but as a jack of all trades, I can't complain about AEB-L. I think this is because I value a fine edge above most all other things and AEB-L can take a wicked sharp edge.
 
Kevin McGovern said:
Honestly, I stumbled into it. When I first got into stainless, folks here suggested it as it is relatively inexpensive and performs well. At that point I was making mostly 3-4" drop point hunters and couldn't make enough to keep up with demand for a while. I have since used it for kitchen knives, fighters, oyster knives, filet knives, kiridashis, bushcraft and camp knives. I know other steels can perhaps perform better in specific areas, but as a jack of all trades, I can't complain about AEB-L. I think this is because I value a fine edge above most all other things and AEB-L can take a wicked sharp edge.
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Do you do your own heat treat? I’m going to heat treat 2 blades this week, test blades. Using Devin’s suggested heat treat. I’m building a heavy duty chopper, and a small bird and trout. If it’s as good as 52100, but stainless, I’ll be ordering a bunch more!
 
rodriguez7 said:
Do you do your own heat treat? I’m going to heat treat 2 blades this week, test blades. Using Devin’s suggested heat treat. I’m building a heavy duty chopper, and a small bird and trout. If it’s as good as 52100, but stainless, I’ll be ordering a bunch more!
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yes I do. Devin's heat treat will work well. Good luck. If you don't have aluminum quench plates GET SOME.
 
Now, I'm no hunter so please take that for what it's worth. But, I have used A LOT of AEB-L most of which is run to 62rc and all professionally heat treated by various sources, although most is done by Peter's. As far as geometry is concerned, most of my knives are hollow ground with edges at 0.010-0.018 prior to sharpening.

Although I love this steel for various reasons, edge retention is not one of them. As Adam mentioned earlier this steel is ridiculously easy to get a great edge on and touches up quicker than just about anything else I've used. However, if you are looking for a steel that will keep its edge for quite some time then there are much better options.

All things considered I personally feel there is no better steel available when ALL factors are considered. At least from a knifemaker's point of view. Just my two cents.

Blessings,
Joshua
 
Not a maker but a user, I've been impressed with AEB-L and the sandvik equivalents. Since the person you are going to make the skinner for isn't good at sharpening, so no to D2. The AEB-L and similar sandvik sharpen up considerably easier. I love D2 for it's toothy edge but it was a little frustrating when I first started sharpening... M4 changed that perception a little.

CTS-XHP is nice stuff but I don't know that I would choose it over AEB-L for the intended person and for intended use. I think the fine edge AEB-L takes would be nicer, it sure makes it pleasant.
 
JoshRG said:
Now, I'm no hunter so please take that for what it's worth. But, I have used A LOT of AEB-L most of which is run to 62rc and all professionally heat treated by various sources, although most is done by Peter's. As far as geometry is concerned, most of my knives are hollow ground with edges at 0.010-0.018 prior to sharpening.

Although I love this steel for various reasons, edge retention is not one of them. As Adam mentioned earlier this steel is ridiculously easy to get a great edge on and touches up quicker than just about anything else I've used. However, if you are looking for a steel that will keep its edge for quite some time then there are much better options.

All things considered I personally feel there is no better steel available when ALL factors are considered. At least from a knifemaker's point of view. Just my two cents.

Blessings,
Joshua
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There's the trade off. Since AEB-L doesn't form ETA carbides, it takes a keen edge, but is less abrasion resistant so that keen edge wears faster.
 
rodriguez7 said:
Do you do your own heat treat? I’m going to heat treat 2 blades this week, test blades. Using Devin’s suggested heat treat. I’m building a heavy duty chopper, and a small bird and trout. If it’s as good as 52100, but stainless, I’ll be ordering a bunch more!
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Here in the high desert we don't experience corrosion issues like the Mid-West or Florida and AEB-L will be a Good skinner...But sacrificing Raw Chopping power of 52100 or 5160 for corrosion resistance is not going to be found in AEB-L...I Tried it... great for kitchen chopping veges and meat Not so much for trees. Try S35VN or Elmax for stainless mid size chopper.
 
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