AEB-L & O1 Edge Retention

Oh yeah, Magnacut is brilliant. I've used it to clean wild hogs and enjoyed results similar to yours. It is a bit more expensive than AEB-L and takes a little more effort to sharpen (at least for me), so Magnacut might not be the perfect choice for everyone while AEB-L still works. I, for one, like having the option to use either depending on my mood and tasks for the day.
Haven't used my Magnacut blades on game (Buck Custom Shop 110, Bradford Guardian 3.0), but I find it very easy to sharpen on diamond hones, easier than VG-10 and S30V. It will be interesting to hear some comments by more hunters who have used Magnacut blades in the field.
 
AEB-L is cheap and easy to work with. I do think it makes a great woods knife but definitely not on my list for a hunting knife. For people who have only used low alloy knives AEB-L can be a step up in performance for them.

What I have found personally through butchering a decent amount of animals since I started making knives a decade ago is I like a balance of strength and toughness with some vanadium carbides.

Last year I field butchered an elk deep in the mountains so I could pack it out and my 10v knife was fabulous. Magnacut and Cruwear are also favorites when they are 62-63 Rc.

Just for the fun of it I butchered to freezer a deer this year with a 2.75 inch Magnacut blade. Gutted, cut brisket cartilage, skinned, separated all leg joints and butchered all the meat and the little knife was still margiannly slicing news paper sharp but did need a sharpening at the end. You could not do this with AEB-L without having to sharpen it a time or two.

Sub 3” blade is impressive you got that done with Magnacut ! Generally using AEBL I think my blades are larger 4-4.5”.

Some of this is in our heads I’m thinking , I’ve used basic 12C27 and had zero issues processing.

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Haven't used my Magnacut blades on game (Buck Custom Shop 110, Bradford Guardian 3.0), but I find it very easy to sharpen on diamond hones, easier than VG-10 and S30V. It will be interesting to hear some comments by more hunters who have used Magnacut blades in the field.

I think this one is 3.5” in Magnacut and as expected performed well with zero issues.

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O1 rusts just by looking at it. I really think the whole O1 movement was popularized by Ray Mears and Alan Wood... all of the "bushcraft" knife makers started heavily leaning on it after that. AEB-L is my favorite steel for a woods knife but I still use a lot of 80crv2.
I brought a roselli UHC to the beach once, while not O1 tool steel i literally saw rust appear before my eyes it was a crazy learning experience. I will stick with AEB-L every day that ends in Y
 
Here's a terrible pic of an excellent knife by David Mary: the Bird n' Shark in Magnacut (I believe at 62.5 RC). This took care of an exceptionally gritty hog with no trouble, still shaved arm hairs afterwards.

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This one, also by David Mary, is in AEB-L (i think 63 RC). I have used it on a few occasions to open up and quarter hogs (not pictured) and had similar results: still able to shave arm hairs afterwards.

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I know that on paper, the numbers indicate that AEB-L shouldn't keep up with Magnacut in terms of edge retention. But in the sample size provided I haven't been disappointed by AEB-L.
 
Here's a terrible pic of an excellent knife by David Mary: the Bird n' Shark in Magnacut (I believe at 62.5 RC). This took care of an exceptionally gritty hog with no trouble, still shaved arm hairs afterwards.

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This one, also by David Mary, is in AEB-L (i think 63 RC). I have used it on a few occasions to open up and quarter hogs (not pictured) and had similar results: still able to shave arm hairs afterwards.

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I know that on paper, the numbers indicate that AEB-L shouldn't keep up with Magnacut in terms of edge retention. But in the sample size provided I haven't been disappointed by AEB-L.
This is a family friendly community sir.
Im sure its okay, lol.. I think --- BUT
I have held onto my love for AEB-L irregardless of the other steels that come out that make people think "one steel can replace another"
I'd still use a 440c knife if a great example one day presents itself
 
AEB-L, 14C28N and Nitro-V are my favorite stainless steels. Distant 4th would be AUS 8 or the Chinese version of that 8Cr13MoV.

They are all very tough steels. If I could only have one, it would be AEB-L. It is tougher than all powdered steels. Tough edges are stable. They don't roll or chip easily because they are tough ;)

They are cheap too and very stainless. Hard to beat IMO.
 
I think this is the first time since beginning to collect that I have not chased the latest and greatest stainless steel.

I finally decided that simple steels that I can sharpen easy are better than hard steels, especially as a pretty poor sharpener. And i dont care about edge retention if the steel sharpens up nicely.

Plus the fact that AEBL is tougher than other stainless and many carbons just blows my mind.

Decided ill sell most of, if not all my super steel knives and still to the AEBL family
 
This is a family friendly community sir.
Im sure its okay, lol.. I think --- BUT
I have held onto my love for AEB-L irregardless of the other steels that come out that make people think "one steel can replace another"
I'd still use a 440c knife if a great example one day presents itself

Did I say something unsavory?

I'm also fine with 440C if it's been treated properly and used well by an experienced maker.
 
It was the hunting picture, I was mostly kidding. Boker is still selling expensive blades made in 440c the vollintegrel (sp?)
Ah, then I shouldn't post pics of my O1 Trail Master dispatching a different pig (visible here: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/trailmaster-3v-tip.2042290/post-23135394 ).

As for the title, my experience with O1 is that it sharpens well and easily, and is reasonably tough in a large knife, but its edge is no match for the sort of abrasive use discussed in this thread, at least as compared to AEB-L. Given the option, I'll choose optimized AEB-L over optimized O1 every time.
 
Did I say something unsavory?

I'm also fine with 440C if it's been treated properly and used well by an experienced maker.
Few days ago I tested 2003 Benchmade 440C against more recent Benchmade S30V.

I was actually surprised that the two steel had about the same edge damage at a micro level. And while less edge wear 440C is still decent and it is nice to sharpen. I don't think S30V is super over 440C.
 
Few days ago I tested 2003 Benchmade 440C against more recent Benchmade S30V.

I was actually surprised that the two steel had about the same edge damage at a micro level. And while less edge wear 440C is still decent and it is nice to sharpen. I don't think S30V is super over 440C.
440c is still a good steel, even though a lot of companies have moved on from it and its understandable, partially as you need to have a really good heat treatment of 440c in order for it to be a decent knife
 
I think what makes AEB-L so popular is its balance. Edge holding is not the end all that some think it is. I've related this story many times in these pages but probably yet again won't hurt. I've done enough shows and talked to enough potential customers that I can tell if a guy looking at my knives in my booth is coming at them as a cowboy or as a hunter. First thing a hunter asks is "How well does it hold an edge?" First thing a cowboy, buckaroo, rancher etc asks if "How easy is it to resharpen." Coming from that background myself I can tell ya if you've got a 150 calves to do by lunch time it doesn't matter what your knife is made of its gonna be needing a touch up or resharpening. AEB-L really fits the bill for both. Sure there are steels that hold an edge better but can ya touch them up by stropping on your chaps, or the top of the truck window or the bottom of that old coffeee mug? AEB-L shines here.

Recently worked in a collaboration with two extremely experienced and successful professional elk guides Together we designed a new model for me that I call The Elk Guide. Add a little here, take off a lil there, that kinda deal. Both said the most important thing is being able to "steel" the knife partway through an animal and keep on going. As one put it:" I'm on some sidehill with a big bull we have down, it's getting dark, starting to snow and I'm part way through. I want to be able to steel that blade and be back in business now."

AEB-L just works. I have made many, many many, knives in AEB-L. If it wasn't working I'd of heard about it by now. Everything from kitchen knives to leather crafting roundknives and everything in between! Heck have another hundred plus I'm getting ready to send off to HT, (62-63 RC), It works.

Boars are kinda like bears and moose. Like cutting through mud soaked sandpaper that's been allowed to dry. First blood for the new Elk Guide:

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These two are literally on an elk hunt right now.

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Others, a couple of Cowboys:

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My roundknife is one tool that is never put away. I have two that live on my leather bench one on each side. I literally use these guys for hours at a time.

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On leather it's not so much when they start to drag but when they start to slip. Literally a couple seconds on a buffer and back past hair splitting. They see a belt or stone maybe every 6 months or so. Probably not even that often. See that maroon colored cutting board? I have to use that under my roundknives as they are too sharp and will get stuck in the roller mat designed for razorblades.

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Cutting out welts:

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AEB-L just works:

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As others mentioned great in the kitchen too. Recent set of steak knives made for one of the guides to give his parents as a Christmas gift:

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This ^^^

I've castrated a fair number of calves and pigs, but I use my knives much more hunting and trapping. I like a knife that holds an edge, but I cherish a tough blade that takes a keen edge fairly quickly and with just one stone or at best a double sided / 2 grit stone.

I don't mind taking time to sharpen blades when I'm at home and have free time, but when it's snowing and blowing or getting dark fast and a blade starts to lose it's edge I sure appreciate being able to get it back without a lot of trouble. And in those same conditions with your fingers cold and your dexterity not 100% a blade that holds up to hitting bone and not taking damage is a must.

So Cruwear and AEB-L have been my preference for years. I've been trying some Magnacut recently and so far it's been good, but if I'm choosing ... I'll still pick Cruwear and AEB-L for most my uses.
 
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