All Purpose 4" Knife in CPM154 -- SOLD

redsquid2

redsquid2

Free-Range Cheese Baby
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Feedback: +58 / =0 / -0
Joined
Aug 31, 2011
Messages
3,078
Blade Material CPM154, heat treated by Texas Knifemakers' Supply.
Blade Length, Tip to Guard: 4 1/8".
Blade width: Just under 1"
Blade thickness: .14", minus a little bit for sanding.
O.A.L.: 9"

The bevels are filed, by hand, at 11 degrees, as flat as I could get them, and there is a microbevel.

There are some minor scratches on the blade.

Handle materials: Guard of linen micarta, spacer of G10, the other materials are stabilized mesquite and dark blue dymondwood.

I glued everything up with West Systems G-Flex, carefully following the prep instructions.

[SOLD for] $88 price, which includes Priority Shipping with Delivery Confirmation, to USA. Shipping to USA only.

First reply of "I'll take it" in this thread, gets it.

8166829633_b3afb1023f_h.jpg


8434371170_95ec55bdfa_h.jpg


8433283263_53c6cb6164_h.jpg


8433280619_e035f6c534_c.jpg


8433279005_9b1bb49f38_b.jpg


8434364402_54045e79ca_b.jpg


8433275221_a2a2814555_b.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the compliments guys.

I got an email regarding strength of epoxy and the question of pinning the tang. For answering technical questions, I highly recommend the following Google custom search, which limits your search to bladeforums : http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=011197018607028182644:qfobr3dlcra


A personal experience of mine, regarding strength of epoxy: The first time I took one of my handmade knives apart, it was just a knife that was made using regular hardware store epoxy. I completely removed the pin. I then dropped the knife in boiling water and allowed it to boil for about 10 minutes. I took it out of the water, and grabbed the handle in on hand, and the blade, with vice grips in the other. I pulled and pulled to no avail. Back in the boiling water for another 10 minutes or so. Then more pulling with the vice grips, then banging the handle on a granite slab. Then more pulling. Still no luck. So I had to put the blade in a vise, and push and pull on the handle until it cracked, then came loose. Remember, there was no pin throughout this entire process.

Since then, I just think of pins as decoration: If a stick-tang knife is carefully, properly glued, it will not come apart, unless you bang it against rocks, or use it as a pry bar. Of course, you might have to boil it first.

On this knife, you can see I cut out indents in the tang. I also cut divots in all surfaces, roughed everything up with 80 grit sandpaper, and rubbed everything down using acetone, prior to joining.

Andy
 
Last edited:
Good job explaining the point about epoxy. Some people don't realize just how strong epoxy is. When properly used, you'll destroy knife before you get the handles off. I wouldn't worry one little bit about handle failure on that knife of yours! I wish I had the extra funds to grab this knife. I like everything about it. I'd be very happy owning it and have no qualms about using the snot out of it!
 
Dullone, I dropped your knife at the post office this morning. email me if you want the tracking number.
 
Only need it if we run into a delivery problem. Suspect it'll get here by the end of the week. This way I have a reason to check the mailbox :)
 
Andy,
The knife was delivered today (kudos to the post office).......and all I can say is WOW

You did some seriously good work here. It was with great interest that I read your thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ndi-Grind-was-Blunted-Tip?highlight=redsquid2 on the evolution of this knife; quite a story and a testament to your dedication, perserverance and talent. Makes getting the knife all the more rewarding.

I enjoy buying knives from, and supporting new makers. Stay with it.

Oh and thank you for the unexpected extra that came with the "package". Feels like I won the lottery with this one!!!!! :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top