Alps 2008: Tribute to BladeForums!

I haven't but my pal Manu has been there I guess. There is plenty of rock in Spain and me, not being that much into rock climbing (I just climb 6a unprotected, not much more...) I don't travel much looking for rock. I live in the north part of Spain and I usually climb arround here or in the Picos de Europa or he Pirinees.
Have you been there Jeff?
Mikel

Yes, I was there in 1996. I had a friend staying in Austria and was able to hook up with him for a three week trip hitting all the rock hotspots in France and Italy. After climbing near Marseille, we spent a few days in Montserrat cragging and doing a couple of the longer routes. Best trip of my life! :D

Jeff
 
I can only echo what protourist said. Thank you.

It's the closest I will ever get to that sport!

Doc
 
amazing pics mikel...:eek: welcome back...:thumbup: that was a great tribute to BF WSS too...:D
 
What an awesome freakin' thread!

Thank you so much for sharing your experience with the rest of us.:thumbup:
 
Mikel, that was great to follow along with you on your trip, thanks for sharing all that. What scenery too!
 
Seems like you guys are ejoying the pictures... so here I am showing you our next adventure.

After comming down from the Monte Rosa Hutte we decided to rest for a whole day and tackle the Pollux (4092m). That should let us save enough energy to do something interesting in Chamonix to finish off our trip.

Resting days allow you to eat well, sleep enough, go for a walk, etc. The drawback is that having so much free time and being away from home (and from our gf’s) for such a long time starts driving some of us nuts. And here it is Iñaki to prove it!
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I think he is half Australian...

We woke up early, took a bus from Randa to Tasch and there we got to pay 162€ for three two way tickets to the Kleint Matterhorn (Small Matterhorn). Using three cable cars you are able to go from Zermatt to 3800m in no time. Our only worry was now to be back on time to take the last cable car down. Otherwise we would end up sleeping in a vivoac up there with no sleeping bags, insulating mats or anything.

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This is a view of the Matterhorn (also called Cervino) from one of the cable cars I guess (not sure). The arette we have right in front of us is the Horly arete, the usual route. My partner Manu climbed it seven years ago in his first trip to the Alps. I will get up there sooner or later. Maybe next year or this season in winter.

After reaching the Kleint Matterhorn cable car highest station, we strapped on our crampons and started the glacier crossing that should get us to the base of the Pollux.
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The Pollux is one of the lowest over-4000m summits in the Alps but it is by no means one of the easiest ones. The normal route follows a rocky arette and you need to cross a few rock slabs aided by chains. The problem in this kind of routes is that the guides have their clients always roped up and on belay so they are veeeeery slow. You always have to wait for them to cross the most difficult sections.

When we were approaching the base of the mountain I saw that the north-west face of the Pollux was covered in snow and it was possible to climb it safely with our crampons and ice axes, avoiding the traffic jams in the normal route so we could get faster to the tops. My partners did think it was a great idea, too easy and too boring. Oh well, let’s go through the arette! We dropped our packs and picked up some stuff. My pack is the one that weights the less when empty so we picked up some food and water and I got to carry it.

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Approaching the arette through a snow corridor.

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Here we are in the arette prior to the most difficult section.

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Waiting for the traffic jam to clear.

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Me in my best I AM NOT HAPPY / I TOLD YOU ABOUT THIS pose. The mountain in the back is the Castor. A bit higher than the Pollux can also be climbed in a single day using the Kleint Matterhorn cable car if you hurry up and take the first one of the morning (7:00).

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Iñaki about to get to the top of the chain section.


Right on top of the chain section there is a Madonna but this is not the true summit. Seems like they needed a reliable rocky base to set it up and the summit of the pollux is all snow and ice.

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Bladeforums tribute!

Keep reading...
 
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After the pictures with the Madonna we still had a few more meters of snow arette to climb. As you can see, there is a fair amount of fresh snow here as well. Some people say that the Alps in summer are as rough as the Pirinees in winter... and they are right. I have endured –17ºC temps here in August!

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The three of us in the summit (it is one of the only two or three pictures we have together in the whole trip).

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Another Bladeforums tribute!

Ever heard that the dumbest accidents and biggest screw ups always happen after someone says YOU DON’T HAVE THE BALLS TO or I DARE YOU TO...? It is true. It happens. All the time.

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This is Manu and me earning our free dinner. The other climbers in the back thought we were nuts and were loughing their asses out. After that they asked us to take a picture with them but please, not naked!
DISCLAIMER: Any mod feels this picture doesn’t belong here, feel free to remove it, no problem.

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Instead of going down through the same arette, Manu and Iñaki agreed it was way safer to go down through the snow slope we spotted while approaching the Pollux.

Once we reached the cable car station again we had some free time before the cable car arrived so we decided to check out the ice museum they have up there. It is a number of galeries digged out in the permafrost inside the glacier. I didn’t like it at all, but hey! It was free! The whole thing seemed like unfinished with tools all over the place, no security and a bunch of turist stepping out of the non skid rubber mats to touch the ice sculptures and take pictures with them. Nah... this didn’t seem Swish made at all!
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After taking the cable car with a bunch of tourist we came back to the camping. We had something to eat and rested all day.

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This is two of us having something to eat. In the back you can see a VW California T5. That is the newest model there is. Mine is a T4, the previous one. The one in the back was also 4WD but less suited for off road driving because it didn’t have diff locks.

As you can see, even with the van equipped with a double lpg stove, we try to cook very little inside (smell, spillings, etc). When weight is not an issue (like in this case) or we intend to melt a lot of snow (multi day winter climbing) gas is the fuel of choice. I use a Primus Omni Stove. It is one of the only two multifuel stoves in the market that allows you to regulate not only the amount of liquid fuel that flows to the generator tube, but also the amount of gasified fuel that spits out of the nipple. The other stove that allows this is the MSR Dragonfly but it is bigger and bulkier. Better suited for base camp cooking for a lot of people. With this stove I can really cook, not only bring water to a boil. Anyway, you have to be carefull with this beast, you can easily melt alumminum pots. It truly is a blowtorch!
It is supposed to run always on white gas but... I just use the cheapest gas I can get in gas stations. You need to clean it once in a while but it doesn’t blacken the pots that much and it is dirty cheap. White Gas (Coleman Fuel) is almost as expensive as LPG so you don’t really save any money using it and it is a lot messier. I just use it in winter when you can not afford to dissasemble the thing to solve clogging. In the picture you can also see my Canadian Camp with a good patina.

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This is an old picture of my stove melting tin foil I guess... Manu took it during an ice climbing trip last year while I was not watching!

Back to the trip. Now it was time to go back to Chamonix to do some more climbing so we packed our stuff together and drove away...

Once I upload the new pictures to Imageshack I will post them here. I hope you like them!
Mikel
 
Mikel, awesome. Thank you for sharing this adventure with us!

LOl on the naked pic. All the parts are properly covered, so its good. I'm just glad you didn't use the Bladeforums banner to cover yourself in that one! :D
 
...LOl on the naked pic. All the parts are properly covered, so its good. I'm just glad you didn't use the Bladeforums banner to cover yourself in that one! :D

Sure! Safety first, helmets always on!

I am working on the last stage of our trip (I write it in a separate .doc file and then copy/paste here) and as soon as I have the pictures uploaded, I will post them here. You will be able to see the most open, wrecked, weird, time consuming glacier crossing ever...
Mikel
 
Thanks again Mikel for sharing the great photos and play by play action!

Jeff
 
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