Alright... I want a secondary EDC that's INSANELY-STUPIDLY SHARP!!!

FliGuyRyan said:
Yeah, I've been wanting to get some of the VG-10 action for sometime, I just can't find one I like.

What is the LV-02 on the Loveless blade? What is tha compare with?

Now, if Kershaw plays their cards right, and actually releases the Leek in the S30V... well, that would solve my problem.

Any more suggestions?
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You can get the Leek in S30V - http://www.ckandt.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=1101&catid=29 - it's not the normal Leek shape, personally I prefer the wharncliffe/reverse tanto-whatever you want to call it shape.
 
FliGuyRyan said:
What is the LV-02 on the Loveless blade? What is tha compare with?
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It's stamped "154CM," so I imagine that it's made of......... 154CM. :D

If you want something really sharp, get a Queen in D2, or a Case in CV, or a carbon steel Eye Brand. If it's going to be your secondary EDC, then one of these will be ideal: Carry it in addition to whatever big folder you feel the need to have; take it out to cut things in front of sheeple and they'll say "ooooh, that's nice;" put a hair-popping edge on it that will put your tacticals to shame.

Peace.
 
Definitely in that price range the ZDP Calypso Jr, but where are you all finding them? The ZDP Delicas are still a ways out from being in production.

Other than the Caly, my vote for INSANELY-STUPID SHARP is for a Benchmade 710HS sharpened then stropped to a hair splitting convexed and polished edge, then the recurve portion passed over rough stones a few times to make microserrations. That is how I keep mine :D :D :D :D :D
 
Joe Talmadge- you said-BTW, no symmetric-style knife will be super sharp, if you want top and bottom grinds that are also symmetric. You'll need to lose the symmetric restriction if you want sharp.
I'm lost-I understood a symmetric grind to be one that is ground equally on both sides and asymmetric grinds to be like a chisel grind. Did I get lost in the terminology? Or am I misunderstanding the basics. I don't know what top and bottom grinds are. Can you help me get back on course?:confused:
Thanks in advance
 
What FliGuyRyan has been looking for (in the other thread) is a dagger blade -- up and down symmetry.

I would suggest looking at the Mcusta knives.
 
FliGuyRyan said:
Yeah, I've been wanting to get some of the VG-10 action for sometime, I just can't find one I like.

What is the LV-02 on the Loveless blade? What is tha compare with?

Now, if Kershaw plays their cards right, and actually releases the Leek in the S30V... well, that would solve my problem.

Any more suggestions?
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The Random Leek is S30V and shaving sharp. Ka-Bar Dozier Thorn D2 is scary too.

'Course there is always a superknife - $30 and you never have to sharpen it
 
FliGuyRyan said:
I just want to ability to friggin shave with it.
P.S. Scalpel/razor sharp...
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Well here are a couple of suggestions -
that you'll be able to more than afford and you probably still can get them even if you get a more expensive "dream" knife.

These are both by reputation and my personal experience insanely sharp or at least can be easily made that way.

They'll not only shave - but are great for cutting - yes, there is a difference - edges that can shave may still have great difficulty cutting THROUGH things - but blades that can cut through things can easily (or made to) shave.

The humble $8 Opinel -

the #8 is the most popular practical size available in both stainless or plain carbon steels - many here would advise on the carbon - I own stainless steel versions and can tell you they'll cut just fine and scary - not only that when they may seem to have flats on the edge - they still cut better than may super steel knives - it's the blade geometry (a shallow convex zero bevel ground blade).

You might even laugh at this suggestion - get a SAK - Swiss Army Knife - specifically Victorinox with two knife blades - they come out of the box shaving sharp - they can easily be made to be really scary by simply honing away the hard shoulder between the edge bevel and blade face to approximate to a zero bevel convexed edge - I did that to my EDC and in my ad-hoc tests it out cut just about all of my knives - see -

Convexed Edge

The regular Victorinox Spartan with two knife blades will probably out-cut many "premium" knives.......


Just don't be surprised if these knives do more cutting for you than your more premium knife.......

--
Vincent
http://UnknownVT2006.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVT2005.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVT.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVincent.cjb.net/
 
I gotta agree with Vincent on this one. SAKs and Opinels are very easy to sharpen on a Sharpmaker. I prefer the #6 which is the smallest locking Opinel. I have both carbon and stainless models and am very pleased with them. The stainless #6 stays in my lunch bag and a SAK is always in my pocket. You can get a SAK and an Opinel shipped to your door for $27. :eek:
 
Try the Spyderco Centofante III, the blade is quite thin, and it takes a crazy sharp edge.
 
Joe Talmadge said:
The easy answer is the Spyderco Calypso Jr. in ZDP-189.
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Take Joe's advice. He knows his stuff, and my Calypso ZDP-189 was the sharpest out of the box knife I ever saw. I stropped it a couple times and it was slicing my thin whispy arm hair at tree top level (that's well above the skin, towards the ends of the hairs). That's hard to do because thinner hair is harder to catch and slice than thicker hair.

I usually only can do this with my straight razors, and only if they have a proper edge on them. :eek:
 
I just picked up a William Henry Monarch in ATS-34 and G10, I love this knife. It came with a mirror polish on the edge and is the perfect pocket knife to go with my Buck 110. $145. When I win the lottery I'm buying 50 more William Henry knives. This knife is so sharp I'm afraid to look directly at it for fear it will cut my eyes.
 
fudo said:
Joe Talmadge- you said-BTW, no symmetric-style knife will be super sharp, if you want top and bottom grinds that are also symmetric. You'll need to lose the symmetric restriction if you want sharp.
I'm lost-I understood a symmetric grind to be one that is ground equally on both sides and asymmetric grinds to be like a chisel grind. Did I get lost in the terminology? Or am I misunderstanding the basics. I don't know what top and bottom grinds are. Can you help me get back on course?:confused:
Thanks in advance
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Warden asked the same thing, and really I was just being sloppy. By symmetric grind I didn't mean v-grind (versus, say, a chisel grind). I meant a knife ground with a symmetrical top and bottom edge, versus one with a single high-ground edge. To wit, this being asymmetrical:

http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=GB6924

versus this being symmetrical:

http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=GB5786


What I was saying is probably obvious now. On the first knife, there's a grind that starts high on the blade. If we assume it is a flat grind, simple geometry should tell us about how thick or thin the edge is. Now look at the second knife. The grind starts at the middle of the blade ... which means that just slightly above where the edge is, the blade reaches full thickness. Simple geometry tells us that the angle will be steeper and edge thicker. The Mad Maxx bowie and dagger work exactly the same way: the dagger has a somewhat-symmetric grind coming out of the center of the blade, with a swedge on top and real edge on the bottom. The bowie has a very high single grind. The difference in edge thickness is readily apparent just by feel.

Usually, daggers or any knife where the grind starts in the middle, will end up having a thick edge. This obviously can be addressed by using a deep hollow grind, but I'm not aware that any of the knives being mentioned in this thread have a deep hollow grind. So, if the original poster would be happy with a single-edge spearpoint blade, he can get something very sharp. If he's looking for a spearpoint with a top swedge or double-edge (in other words, something that looks like a dagger), he's going to end up with thick edges.

Joe
 
Besides William Henry, who is currently making folders with ZDP-189? Are the recommendations for a Calypso Jr. based on just the steel, or also because of Spyderco's heat treat, if indeed they do heat treat this model? One more question slightly off topic, how do you heat treat laminated steel?

Thanks.
 
Joe Talmadge said:
The easy answer is the Spyderco Calypso Jr. in ZDP-189. It's sharper than any knife you own, and I don't even know what you own :) It's out of production now, but a few dealers still have stock, so you'll have to search. At something like 64-65 Rc, it's strong enough to take a VERY thin sharp edge, and Spyderco took advantage of that. Not really a self-defense knife, and not symmetric, but as sharp as you'll get.
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That pretty much sums it up!
 
jim n said:
This knife is so sharp I'm afraid to look directly at it for fear it will cut my eyes.
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:D

This thread wasn't a contest for sharpess adjectives but that just won anyway.
 
Richard Sommer said:
Are the recommendations for a Calypso Jr. based on just the steel, or also because of Spyderco's heat treat, if indeed they do heat treat this model? One more question slightly off topic, how do you heat treat laminated steel?

Thanks.
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It's the steel, but more importantly it is the blade geometry of the Calypso Jr. If it was just the steel then people would say "anything in ZDP-189".
 
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