Alright.... im tired of this wetterlings.

S

sisk61

Joined
Jun 24, 2011
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508
Some of you know that i posted a while back about my wetterlings axe having problems with the wedge wiggling its way out of the kerf slot.

Well, I carved a new wedge, let it sit in linseed oil for three weeks, and today is the first day i got out to use it. i tested it on a wisteria stump in my back yard. wedge came out again....... I really dont know what to do now.

Can yall help me out once more?
 
Hi sisk!

A pic could help (especially me, my english is not as good), maybe we can see what´s going wrong there.

Which wedge did you use? Wood or steel? If you use a wooden, maybe it´s because of its size. I would think, that the haft is not the problem.

Maybe that´s why I always use three wooden wegdes with a crosscut. So the haft is fixed on the head at four sides. Usually nothing comes out again.

Kind regards
Andi
 
alright, ill take some pictures. I just carved one wedge out of maple. i didnt really think about doing a crosscut.
 
I just can fix it with a crosscut. I tried it out with a regular wedge, but it didn´t work. It´s just my way to fix it up. Maybe some others here have other opinions of fixing it up.

But I´m sure, we can make it.

Kind regards
Andi
 
if i had a few images to work from i'm sure i could help.
i've had a few axe heads with this problem.

sometimes you just have to use a metal wedge

buzz
 
here are some pictures

DSC_3757.jpg


DSC_3758.jpg


DSC_3759.jpg


DSC_3760.jpg


DSC_3761.jpg


The original wedge is on the left, it failed multiple times. and the wedge on the right was the one i put in. Yeah, i know its too short. i guess thats because i used a knife to rough out the wedge.
DSC_3762.jpg


Original
DSC_3763.jpg


My crappy wedge
DSC_3764.jpg


DSC_3765.jpg


DSC_3766.jpg


DSC_3767.jpg
 
You should make a couple of wedges. The top of the haft seems to a bit too deep cut. I use to cut them just three-quarter of your depth. The wedge you made is too small, I think. You should try out a broader and longer one. So that the wedge can "bite" more wood of the haft. And in case of emergency, as markv already told, you could also use a metal wedge.

Imo the cut is a little to broad for the haft.

My tip; try out some wedges in different sizes. I would not put them in oil, for trying. When the wedge fits without oil, you shoudn´t use oil for the wedge. I dont use any oil for any hafts.

I hope this could help a little bit.

Kind regards
Andi
 
Hi sisk!

No problem!

I would make a wedge like the original one. Just thicker and nearly at the same length, just a little shorter. I´d use it without oil. Imo this can cause the wedge to slip out, first a little bit. Later on it could slip out better, like on your pics. I already made about 40 or 45 hafts, at all. Never used oil. The mainproblem was mostly getting the real dimensions of the hafts. Never had problems with the wedges. You should try it out with some more wedges and without oil.

I hope it will work. My wedges are of ashwood as well as the hafts. (In Germany we don´t have any hickory) But maple would be ok, I think. I don´t have experiences with this wood.

Kind regards
Andi
 
I have a really nice boys axe handle that would look great on that head.

I was hesitant to jump in here to avoid confusion. You have received excellent advice so far.

I will add this, go to the home depot or hardware store and buy a brand new wedge kit cost about $1.00 it has a wooden wedge properly shaped and a metal one.
DO what memphis said and rough up the handle a little with sandpaper to provide a little friction. Clean it out too it looks gunky.
Then I would fit the head on goodntight with a block or by tapping.

*
Then trim wedge to width of eye not depth. I use glue but thats your choice carpenters glue will suffice. Coat with glue, and tap it in with a mallet or hammer until it starts to shroom a little.
Trim it up. At this point I would cross wedge it with the metal one too. Then let it sit to dry and hopefully you can use it.
 
The way I see it, you have two problems.
First, somewere in the axe eye (half way from the bottom to the top of it) you should have a retention ”collar” whose purpose is to create a pressure point on the haft when you fix the wedge. When fix the haft you will have three presure points - to the bottom expansion, in the middle presure and at the top expansion. If is no collar in the eye you have to do one - file down the top and the bottom of the eye.
Second, currently notch is not right, is too wide at the top, you have to wide it at the bottom.
After fixing this two problems, make a new wedge, wider than the notch (you add the difference between haft and top of the eye dimensions).
In this way you have a „lock down” system - when you push down the wedge the haft will expand at the bottom and the top of the eye and put some presure on the collar, fixing the haft and the wedge in place.
Hope this is intelligible (my english is poor)!
Success!
 
In my opinion there is **NOT anything wrong with the eye or the helve. I think you just need to shape your wedge better (longer), dry up all the gunk and oil, and drive the new wedge in better.

I'd be happy to give you some tips on shaping the wedge if you'd like, but I won't have time until this evening at best.

Edit to add: **NOT
 
Last edited:
How do i fix the the notch if its too wide at the top and bottom?

Cattledog- if this doesnt work, i might have to see if i can buy that handle from you!

If i continue to fail, is there somewhere i can send it to be properly done?
 
sisk61 said:
How do i fix the the notch if its too wide at the top and bottom?

Cattledog- if this doesnt work, i might have to see if i can buy that handle from you!

If i continue to fail, is there somewhere i can send it to be properly done?
Click to expand...


I was thinking the other way around that's a nice head.
 
Adding a new haft to an axe or hatchet can be tricky. Especially for the first times, you do it. I think there are a lot of ways to the target.

Maybe you know a carpenter who could explain this to you in person, and some beer. That´s how I learned to rehaft my axes. Ok, that´s already some years ago.

I could rehaft that axe, but sending it to Germany with the costums and taxes and so on would not be ok. I think, you can find someone to fix it up for you in the US.

Kind regards
Andi
 
You could also try hitting both the interior of the kerf and the sides of your wedge with a rough file perpendicular to the handle to give both sides a better grip when inserted.

If you have two smooth oiled surfaces pressing against each other, they are less likely to grip each other. Generally oil is applied after the wedge is inserted into the kerf and everything is tight. The idea is that the oil will swell the wood even further in a confined space, making things tighter and less likely to shift. If everything is pre-oiled and put under pressure, the oil in the wood is going to be forced out into the surrounding spaces, lubricating the surface between the wedge and the kerf.
 
Hello Sisk61...Very descriptive photos.

If she were mine I would set that haft aside and start again. Set everything up correctly as you go. Patience is the most important part. Shape the eye end of haft 'till you get that perfect fit, so you don't have to hammer hell out of it to get it in but not loose either. I use a double cut file rather than a rasp. Cut the kerf deeper if required. Just a straight cut, not flared out. I think the depth of your current one is about right. Before you fit the haft make sure the wedge is the correct length and width. Shape the point to get a good lead-in.

I do mine dry. When I have finished I stand the axe head up and drop a few drops of oil into the eye and leave over night.

Slip over to Memphis place for the weekend. He's the 'Hangman' from Hell.

Don't give-up mate. Good luck. regards...Frank
 
thanks for the info guys

LVC- i did that to the kerf slot but not the wedge.

Frank- thanks! i thought about getting another haft and shaping it to fit. but if i cant even hang a head, i dont think i could make another haft.
 
There is a lot of great advice here, but have you considered putting the wedge in with a little epoxy? I'm pretty sure that's how Gransfors sets their wedges. I don't personally do that when I re-helve an axe, but it may help. Just a thought:)
 
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