An old HOG....needs love?

Nice! I plan on adding some handle thickness with liners to a couple of mine, but was going to flare tubing again to secure scales. Can you share what kind of hardware you chose?

Thanks!
 
Just a heads up the screws and posts come in various lengths, you want to get a female post that goes all the way through the scales and blade AND seats just below the recessed 1/4 part of the hole in the handle scale. Make sure the threaded section length of the screws you buy are under 1/2 the length of the post. If they are over 1/2 you may have to grind them down or they will bottom out into each other and your scales wont be tight.

Also the screws are Torx Plus, it is a lil different than a standard torx bit and harder to find, definitely get 2 bits from the same site so you can hold one screw still and torque the other. A regular torx big works, but will leave a bite mark in the screw head, the proper bits will leave it unmarked for the cleanest install!

Posts
https://www.mcmaster.com/female-thr...ial~stainless-steel/threading~fully-threaded/

Screws
https://www.mcmaster.com/flat-head-...el-torx-flat-head-screws-8/thread-size~10-32/

Bit
https://www.mcmaster.com/54305A24/
 
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I'm always in favor of making it your own. My fugly ghetto satin blades would look so much better if I had access to a blaster.

Very nice work.
 
propbuildervash said:
Just a heads up the screws and posts come in various lengths, you want to get a female post that goes all the way through the scales and blade AND seats just below the recessed 1/4 part of the hole in the handle scale. Make sure the threaded section length of the screws you buy are under 1/2 the length of the post. If they are over 1/2 you may have to grind them down or they will bottom out into each other and your scales wont be tight.

Also the screws are Torx Plus, it is a lil different than a standard torx bit and harder to find, definitely get 2 bits from the same site so you can hold one screw still and torque the other. A regular torx big works, but will leave a bite mark in the screw head, the proper bits will leave it unmarked for the cleanest install!

Posts

Screws

Bit
www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com
Click to expand...
Thanks for posting those links. I anticipate they will be quite useful in my future.
I had run across McMaster before. They are a good source of fasteners. I just didn't know the size that would be needed for replacing Busse scales.
 
propbuildervash said:
Posts

Screws

Bit
www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com
Click to expand...

So... uh.... am I the only one that the direct links won't work? I'm just taken to the front page of McMaster's. Or it won't even open at all.
 
Nice write-up. Looking forward to see the re-handling process and end results. Eventually want to add liners to a couple of mine to make the handles a little wider.
 
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Just a status update - The handle hardware has arrived and is nearly spot on for what I needed. Ideally the hardware would have been 11/16ths in length, 3/4 is too long for this blade, but that wasn't an option so I rolled with 5/8 and that looks like it will work great. Busse makes these handles to such a tight tolerance that I had to apply a micro bevel the last Stainless Steel standoff so I could install it smoothly without undue force. Nothing a handheld cordless drill and a file couldn't take care of in about 10 seconds. I am still waiting for more buffing wheels to arrive. My other wheel was starting to fall apart so I ordered a handful of spares in several different types.
 
The polishing wheels arrived a couple days ago. It took me a while to put more polish on it. I only polished for a min or two at a time and then let the blade return to ambient temp in my garage, about 25 degrees F. I did not want to mess up the heat treat and I didn't want to end up with a mirror polish.

Here are the final results.

2022-02-15-17-10-33.jpg

2022-02-15-17-11-12.jpg

2022-02-15-17-11-26.jpg
 
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SRWeldon said:
To the OP what size drill bit did you use to drill out the tubes? 3/16"?
Click to expand...
I believe it was 11/64 or 3/16 but I am not sure. I cleaned up my shop last week and tossed the old rivets out so I cannot check to verify. The key is to enlarge the inside hole partially to create a shoulder of material inside the tube, you do not want to drill all the way though, then you carefully remove the top of the flare with a medium stepped drill bit. Once its removed, you secure the scales using e-tape and you can then place a punch on the new formed inside shoulder of the tube to lightly tap it out of the hole, without a shoulder to place a punch on it is very difficult to remove the tubes.
 
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