How To Anodizing Ti - DIY at home

[bflying]

Quick update, and some recent dips. Anyone else have any anodizing successes (or failures) they'd like to share?

I'm still experimenting and learning. Some lessons are harder learned than others. I'm still having trouble hitting those crazy elusive bright greens. Hopefully some day I'll figure it out. Pretty much have the low voltage stuff (bronze, purple, blue) down to at least somewhat repeatable.

 

[bflying]

I finally did it. I hit a bright green shade that I've wanted for months. Yes I've had some faded out mint, or yellow barf. And even a darker green with heavy purple and other blotch colors that just linger.

But today the gods showered me with a few "At-a-boy's". Darkness was overcome by light. And my little zt0850 clip finally has a bright green shade that had evaded me for quite some time. My boy finally wants me to trick out his zt801Ti, and wants this green to be his base, insides, and edges. He's still stuck on a rainbow effect down the middle however. I'm still quite novice at fades and multi colors, but I'm alearnin'. Just have a few pics tonight. Hopefully I'll be able to post pics of at least two more of my kids' knives tomorrow.

 

[bflying]

My boy's 801Ti, and some of his Rexford brothers.

 

[45Shooter]

Is it possible to get a deep brown burnt bronze color? If so, what voltage?

 

[bflying]

Is it possible to get a deep brown burnt bronze color? If so, what voltage?

I actually hit something close in yet another experiment the other day. It was only a small part of the peice, but I think it would look great as the primary color. The Bronze/Gold colors happen right at the beginning of the scale, between 5-15 volts. But is always dependent on multiple variables.... Electrolyte, electrical current, makeup and finish of Ti peice, etc. This peice was trying out another random electrolyte, and a dip style to create a grained look.

The knife in the picture below had the end brown section done at a very low voltage, if I remember correctly, somewhere around 7-10 volts. The clip was also done at that voltage, but was highly polished first. Bringing a bright brass or gold tone. The knife scales were fairly heavily etched in the Whink and left with a matte texture. The clip and back spacer were both mirror polished.

This picture is one of the best I've found for ano color scale approximation. It uses actual Titanium, and specs the details.

 

[bflying]

It's probably no surprise that I spent half the day down in the shop. Tried matching the clip on the 850, but didn't happen like I wanted. So had to strip and start over.

Then on the 562cf, I stuck with a basic solid.

I tried to get a bit too tricky with the Kizer. I was shooting for a stonewashed dirty bronze. But ended up with an ok color, but just looks scratched up.

The clip however came out pretty cool looking. It's definitely a keeper.

 

[Lapedog]

It's probably no surprise that I spent half the day down on the shop. Tried matching the clip on the 850, but didn't happen like I wanted. So had to strip and start over.

Then on the 562cf, I stuck with a basic solid.

I tried to get a bit too tricky with the Kizer. I was shooting for a stonewashed dirty bronze. But ended up with an ok color, but just looks scratched up.

Very nice results! This is how I have been doing it, using 9volt batteries.

Here is a chart for various voltages.

Because of the nature of how the oxide layer plays with light it is hard to capture exactly how it looks in real life. Here are some clips I did. Purpleish bronze on left and dark blue on right.

I’m going to redo this one. Turned out too candy looking. Btw you can remove Ti anodizing with Whink brand rust stain remover. Just be careful it will etch even stainless steel in seconds.

 

[bflying]

Very nice results! This is how I have been doing it, using 9volt batteries.

Here is a chart for various voltages.

Because of the nature of how the oxide layer plays with light it is hard to capture exactly how it looks in real life. Here are some clips I did. Purpleish bronze on left and dark blue on right.

I’m going to redo this one. Turned out too candy looking. Btw you can remove Ti anodizing with Whink brand rust stain remover. Just be careful it will etch even stainless steel in seconds.

Very nice, you are getting some great results. Thank you for posting some of your work and experiences. This thread was fast becoming the Bflying monologue, in d flat. But I really think there are many enthusiast's that simply don't know how simple it can be to dress up titanium.

I also started out with batteries. But maybe half the stuff shown in the video you posted. I think it's cool that you really can get some nice ano color with a few batteries, two wires, and a few leftover sips of coca-cola.

I have since posted your video many times as a well outlined, easy as pie way to start anodizing. But I was also pleasantly surprised to learn you can pick up a bench top DC power source for under a $C note. Which opens the door to many more shades of color (not to mention super quick startup/shutdown, etc. But will say sometimes too many options can overcomplicate an otherwise simple procedure.

 

[Lapedog]

Very nice, you are getting some great results. Thank you for posting some of your work and experiences. This thread was fast becoming the Bflying monologue, in d flat. But I really think there are many enthusiast's that simply don't know how simple it can be to dress up titanium.

I also started out with batteries. But maybe half the stuff shown in the video you posted. I think it's cool that you really can get some nice ano color with a few batteries, two wires, and a few leftover sips of coca-cola.

I have since posted your video many times as a well outlined, easy as pie way to start anodizing. But I was also pleasantly surprised to learn you can pick up a bench top DC power source for under a $C note. Which opens the door to many more shades of color (not to mention super quick startup/shutdown, etc. But will say sometimes too many options can overcomplicate an otherwise simple procedure.

Thank you for the compliment. I noticed that the texture of the Ti before you anodize has a big effect on the colour you end up with as well.

 

[Yabos McGee]

I usually lurk, but I created an account just so I could comment on your stuff after seeing it in the Massdrop talk thread. I like all the different things you've been trying out. It's nice to see how someone starting out would do it, since most instructions out there are from people with experience. One thing I couldn't get a definitive answer on while searching: the matte grippy texture that comes stock on the Falcon, do you think that's from a stonewash/beadblast/etc finish, etching, or both?

 

[bflying]

I usually lurk, but I created an account just so I could comment on your stuff after seeing it in the Massdrop talk thread. I like all the different things you've been trying out. It's nice to see how someone starting out would do it, since most instructions out there are from people with experience. One thing I couldn't get a definitive answer on while searching: the matte grippy texture that comes stock on the Falcon, do you think that's from a stonewash/beadblast/etc finish, etching, or both?

Thank you for the compliment. I'm glad you joined here. There is so much good info to be had. But really only works if people stop lurking and share. Even if it is just to ask a question that you are sure "everyone" else knows. Guarantee that every member and lurker has not read all 9,000 volumes on every topic. Just because some cranky BF veteran has seen the argument of polished edges vs toothy, literally hundreds of times, doesn't mean there aren't hundreds of new viewers looking at it for the first time. Anyway, back to your question...

It's been said that the Falcon finish is just a bead blast. But to me, it had a texture unlike any other bead blasted knife I own. Not just different, but actually horribly annoying to touch. Very possible more than one process was used. Or just something in a different way.

So I ended up sanding both my Falcon and Crux. It has been mentioned many times, but the surface finish plays a large role in the end result of anodizing. A well etched surface takes on a more dense, solid color. While a polished surface takes a light, shiny color, that is susceptible to color changes with light brightness, angle, and surface contaminants such as body oils from handling.

Sorry about the overkill for your simple question. It's pretty well known that I have a tendency to ramble in my attempts to put my thoughts to words. I vaguely recall a class taken in the 80’s titled "Concise Writing for Business". Fortunately it wasn't a huge requirement for my accounting degree..... Because it didn't "take".

 

[Yabos McGee]

Thank you for the compliment. I'm glad you joined here. There is so much good info to be had. But really only works if people stop lurking and share. Even if it is just to ask a question that you are sure "everyone" else knows. Guarantee that every member and lurker has not read all 9,000 volumes on every topic. Just because some cranky BF veteran has seen the argument of polished edges vs toothy, literally hundreds of times, doesn't mean there aren't hundreds of new viewers looking at it for the first time. Anyway, back to your question...

It's been said that the Falcon finish is just a bead blast. But to me, it had a texture unlike any other bead blasted knife I own. Not just different, but actually horribly annoying to touch. Very possible more than one process was used. Or just something in a different way.

So I ended up sanding both my Falcon and Crux. It has been mentioned many times, but the surface finish plays a large role in the end result of anodizing. A well etched surface takes on a more dense, solid color. While a polished surface takes a light, shiny color, that is susceptible to color changes with light brightness, angle, and surface contaminants such as body oils from handling.

Sorry about the overkill for your simple question. It's pretty well known that I have a tendency to ramble in my attempts to put my thoughts to words. I vaguely recall a class taken in the 80’s titled "Concise Writing for Business". Fortunately it wasn't a huge requirement for my accounting degree..... Because it didn't "take".

No, I appreciate the thorough reply, as I was having a hard time finding straight answers online. And, part of my job involves being able to research information online well, so it's not often I have to stop and ask in a forum. While trying to find an answer on the affect surface finish has on the anodizing texture, I did come across some posts on finishing.com about the subject. But, since they're involved in anodizing at the industrial level, it's still a bit over my head at this point. One thing that I did find there was that alkaline anodizing for titanium is supposed to give a "thicker" and more resilient finish. Have you gotten into anything like that? I am having difficulty in finding information on alkaline anodizing, and some forum posts I read indicate that's usually because alkaline process tend to be proprietary.

Also, you mentioned that you got your power supply "from China". I'm guessing you mean through a site like Aliexpress, Banggood, etc? Was there any particular reason? A quick search indicates that Newegg has variable DC power supplies for around $65, so I'm wondering if those aren't suitable. Or, were those just not available at the time? Thanks again for the info.

 

[bflying]

No, I appreciate the thorough reply, as I was having a hard time finding straight answers online. And, part of my job involves being able to research information online well, so it's not often I have to stop and ask in a forum. While trying to find an answer on the affect surface finish has on the anodizing texture, I did come across some posts on finishing.com about the subject. But, since they're involved in anodizing at the industrial level, it's still a bit over my head at this point. One thing that I did find there was that alkaline anodizing for titanium is supposed to give a "thicker" and more resilient finish. Have you gotten into anything like that? I am having difficulty in finding information on alkaline anodizing, and some forum posts I read indicate that's usually because alkaline process tend to be proprietary.

Also, you mentioned that you got your power supply "from China". I'm guessing you mean through a site like Aliexpress, Banggood, etc? Was there any particular reason? A quick search indicates that Newegg has variable DC power supplies for around $65, so I'm wondering if those aren't suitable. Or, were those just not available at the time? Thanks again for the info.

You may be right about the acid/alkaline argument. Anything scientific is pretty much over my head. I'm pretty much just a jump in the deep end trial and error guy. So I really have no idea the chemical makeup of the electrolytes I've used. I've tried everything around the house from commercial cleaners to Coca-Cola. With different levels of success with almost everything. It has been suggested by someone with amazing results to use a non-acid rust remover. And someone else that also does absolutely amazing custom work, that uses liquid Tide in water. My current bath solution is an open bowl of distilled water with Borax detergent, baking soda, and a shot of Sun Tripple Clean. Very scientific. The usual response in most training vids is to use TSP. Someday I may buy sone, but have been having fun trying out all the non-typical suggestions I get from people. Now I'm thinking about it, I'm out of Coke. Need to go shopping and try it out again with some of my new electrical fav settings.

For the power supply, I did not think about going direct to Newegg. But by doing broad searches, I simply purchased what hit my needs, and in my price range. Was looking for a DC unit with an output of 120volts, and at least 3amps. Many 30v/40v/50v machines show up in that $40-$100 range, but had to go to Ali to find 120v under $300. And so far, it has met my expectations.

Years ago I got the bug to gold plate all of my car emblems and other parts. Gold only needs around 12v or less. And my rectifier was even pulsating, so power distribution was even inconsistent. Different process obviously, but the scary part was the gold solution was in a cyanide suspension. It kind of scared me, but was hoping to at least be able to use the power source. Oh well, just lacking a hundred volts +/- a few. I feel a bit safer playing with Titanium now. X

 

[Yabos McGee]

So, I finally got some stuff together to give anodizing a try as well. One thing I don't think you went over here (possibly in the Massdrop thread, though) is how you removed the thick anodizing on the Falcon and Crux. I didn't get any Whink yet, but I did get some sandpaper to play with surface finish. I really dislike the thick, gritty surface finish of the Falcon I have. I'd like to try for a smoother finish, possibly a smooth matte or smooth polish.

 

[bflying]

So, I finally got some stuff together to give anodizing a try as well. One thing I don't think you went over here (possibly in the Massdrop thread, though) is how you removed the thick anodizing on the Falcon and Crux. I didn't get any Whink yet, but I did get some sandpaper to play with surface finish. I really dislike the thick, gritty surface finish of the Falcon I have. I'd like to try for a smoother finish, possibly a smooth matte or smooth polish.

If you have the gray version, there is no anodizing from the factory. It is just a heavy sand or bead blasted finish. The blue and bronze versions are anodized. The only way I've found to effectively "fix" the surface finish is with sandpaper and/or Scotchbrite abrasives.

There are many ways to refinish and prep the surface. If you like the bead blast look, you may just want to work on it with new Scotchbrite pads until you get it where you want it. Another way is to sand the surface until near polish, then etch in Whink until you get some texture back. For sanding, I usually use automotive wet/dry paper from 320 up to 3,000, and often 5,000 grit. If you like a satin brushed look, you may want to stop at 800-1,000 grit.

I think I've mentioned earlier, that the surface finish can have a significant affect on the final results. Take a very low voltage color in the bronze range, say 5-10 volts. With a well etched satin finish, you should end up with a nice bronze color. Possibly even a nice uneven "antiqued" look. But take that same part, sand it out to 5,000 grit, then put a mirror polish on with a buffing wheel. That same voltage would probably yield a bright gold look (or maybe what you would see on bright brass items like door hardware or plumbing fixtures).

 

[Yabos McGee]

If you have the gray version, there is no anodizing from the factory. It is just a heavy sand or bead blasted finish. The blue and bronze versions are anodized. The only way I've found to effectively "fix" the surface finish is with sandpaper and/or Scotchbrite abrasives.

There are many ways to refinish and prep the surface. If you like the bead blast look, you may just want to work on it with new Scotchbrite pads until you get it where you want it. Another way is to sand the surface until near polish, then etch in Whink until you get some texture back. For sanding, I usually use automotive wet/dry paper from 320 up to 3,000, and often 5,000 grit. If you like a satin brushed look, you may want to stop at 800-1,000 grit.

I think I've mentioned earlier, that the surface finish can have a significant affect on the final results. Take a very low voltage color in the bronze range, say 5-10 volts. With a well etched satin finish, you should end up with a nice bronze color. Possibly even a nice uneven "antiqued" look. But take that same part, sand it out to 5,000 grit, then put a mirror polish on with a buffing wheel. That same voltage would probably yield a bright gold look (or maybe what you would see on bright brass items like door hardware or plumbing fixtures).

Appreciate the reply. Yeah, I have some #320 and #1200 sandpaper, so I figured I would get it to a less "gritty" finish. I might bring it up to a smoother, glossy finish just to check it out. When you took a buffing wheel, did you use any polishing compound on it at all? Did you ever try anodizing it when it's heavily polished without etching it? I haven't gotten any Multi-etch, but I was going to go grab some Whink Rust Remover so that I can easily start over if need be.

At any point, did you ever try sanding/polishing by hand? I don't really have any power tools that would work for that, but was considering getting a Dremel at some point. Just wondering if I shouldn't even bother with trying by hand, and just go straight to power tools.

Sorry, one more. Any advice on stuff you tried early on that you wish you hadn't, or stuff you wish you had known at the beginning? Appreciate all the info and help, thanks.

 

[bflying]

Appreciate the reply. Yeah, I have some #320 and #1200 sandpaper, so I figured I would get it to a less "gritty" finish. I might bring it up to a smoother, glossy finish just to check it out. When you took a buffing wheel, did you use any polishing compound on it at all? Did you ever try anodizing it when it's heavily polished without etching it? I haven't gotten any Multi-etch, but I was going to go grab some Whink Rust Remover so that I can easily start over if need be.

At any point, did you ever try sanding/polishing by hand? I don't really have any power tools that would work for that, but was considering getting a Dremel at some point. Just wondering if I shouldn't even bother with trying by hand, and just go straight to power tools.

Sorry, one more. Any advice on stuff you tried early on that you wish you hadn't, or stuff you wish you had known at the beginning? Appreciate all the info and help, thanks.

I only sanded by hand. The only power tool I ever used for prep was a buffing wheel. I do use a little white compound with the wheel. Using a Dremel to sand would probably get out of control fast. I did leave my Crux quite smooth, and like how it looks and feels. My Falcon is still pretty rough in texture, but not the horrible feel as it comes out of the box.

The only etchant I've ever used is Whink. And the only mistakes early on that I can think of, is not having Whink on hand while learning. I actually have made many mistakes, but all part of the learning curve. Back to Whink, it will strip off previous ano in seconds. And if left in, will just keep eating into the titanium. So I use it to etch, but don't let it get out of hand. And if you don't like the ano look you came up with, 7 seconds back in Whink and it's gone.

I have anodized pretty much every surface finish I've come up against. From heavily etched to full polish. An etched finish will give a more solid color. While a polished surface will be more susceptible to short term color changes from body oils from hands and such. Take my Crux for example. When it was fresh out of the bath, I took some pics that show it with very bright distinct colors. Then handle it for a few minutes, and it is suddenly very pastel looking. Get a clean cloth and give the Ti a nice alcohol wipedown, and it will return to the bright colors. It's kind of crazy. A polished surface will also color shift more in different lighting environments. I find it fun, but if you had a specific color in mind, only to have it shift randomly, it may drive you crazy. I'll try to find some pics of my mighty morphing Crux.

Early pics before handing...

Then a few days later...

And here is my Gent with a blinding purple...

Then a few weeks of pocket time... Actually just taken today...

Now after an alcohol wipedown...

It's just the way it is.

 

[Lapedog]

I only sanded by hand. The only power tool I ever used for prep was a buffing wheel. I do use a little white compound with the wheel. Using a Dremel to sand would probably get out of control fast. I did leave my Crux quite smooth, and like how it looks and feels. My Falcon is still pretty rough in texture, but not the horrible feel as it comes out of the box.

The only etchant I've ever used is Whink. And the only mistakes early on that I can think of, is not having Whink on hand while learning. I actually have made many mistakes, but all part of the learning curve. Back to Whink, it will strip off previous ano in seconds. And if left in, will just keep eating into the titanium. So I use it to etch, but don't let it get out of hand. And if you don't like the ano look you came up with, 7 seconds back in Whink and it's gone.

I have anodized pretty much every surface finish I've come up against. From heavily etched to full polish. An etched finish will give a more solid color. While a polished surface will be more susceptible to short term color changes from body oils from hands and such. Take my Crux for example. When it was fresh out of the bath, I took some pics that show it with very bright distinct colors. Then handle it for a few minutes, and it is suddenly very pastel looking. Get a clean cloth and give the Ti a nice alcohol wipedown, and it will return to the bright colors. It's kind of crazy. A polished surface will also color shift more in different lighting environments. I find it fun, but if you had a specific color in mind, only to have it shift randomly, it may drive you crazy. I'll try to find some pics of my mighty morphing Crux.

Early pics before handing...

Then a few days later...

And here is my Gent with a blinding purple...

Then a few weeks of pocket time... Actually just taken today...

Now after an alcohol wipedown...

It's just the way it is.

How do you get the rainbow or rainbow with stripes in it. Or like on the zt 0808 how you got the side one colour and the contours another?

Are you using nail polish or something to block part of it off?

 

[bflying]

Oh, one more thing. Always check your final color outcome after drying. The color when wet fresh out of the solution will often be quite different than it will actually show as. You could see a bright purple when wet, and end up with a navy blue.

And like the adage, "measure twice, cut once", it is always better to aim a bit low on the voltage scale if you are not positive of desired outcome. You can always increase the voltage and dip again. But if you were shooting for a color that requires a lower voltage, you will be required to strip and start over.

 

[bflying]

How do you get the rainbow or rainbow with stripes in it. Or like on the zt 0808 how you got the side one colour and the contours another?

Are you using nail polish or something to block part of it off?

On my 0808, and my son's 0801Ti, I hit the entire peice at a higher voltage to get the green color. Somewhere in the high 90's. Or if you want more of a wasabi green, I use 51 volts. Then sand/polish the flats and aim for colors at progressively lower voltages.

Depending on the original texture, I may start around 240 grit, or jump to 600-800 if already flat and smooth. By the time you are rubbing around on the 3000-5000 grit, it's usually pretty polished at that point. Be sure to do this on a very flat surface. I use some leftover marble tiles from a basement remodel.

The bronze to purple to blue are hit in the 5-23 volt range. You could go either direction as long as you have a plan and be systematic. I think I reversed and went lower to high in order to better blend the colors. So I dipped the entire part at around 8 to cover the polished area with Bronze. Then increase to 17, and dip the side I want darker, in to about 2/3rds of the way. Keep the motion very fast, because 1/2 second can make a difference. If you have control over the amperage, lower it if possible so it may take a fraction of a second longer to hit the voltage color. If darker is needed, dip again, QUICKLY, and maybe not as far in. Then increase to around 21-22, and dip the last 1/3rd. These lower voltages will not affect the perimeter green from 90 volts.

Clear as mud? If so, better spend some time surfing YouTube. Maybe "how to anodize with gradient".