another bark river grasso bolo 2 fail

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Give that numbskull some toy cars ta play with.
Hmmmm, the Becker plowed thru the knot easily,
Proper heat treat!!!
 
well they do put the final grinding after they get it back from HT, I believe its possible to ruin the temper and HT when this last step is done, just my 0.02. I realize BR heat treats many knives at one time and if one is bad then they're all bad but what about when they do the final grinding? I haven't seen anyone talk about that. And no I'm not a company basher just my opinion, my small collection is mainly BR knives and i love em but they might just be putting out too many knives too fast and not able to make sure the knives are (more) perfect. Just an opinion, I love BR but there are lots of stories of this happening, i hope it doesnt happen to my golok lol.
 
well they do put the final grinding after they get it back from HT, I believe its possible to ruin the temper and HT when this last step is done, just my 0.02. I realize BR heat treats many knives at one time and if one is bad then they're all bad but what about when they do the final grinding? I haven't seen anyone talk about that. And no I'm not a company basher just my opinion, my small collection is mainly BR knives and i love em but they might just be putting out too many knives too fast and not able to make sure the knives are (more) perfect. Just an opinion, I love BR but there are lots of stories of this happening, i hope it doesnt happen to my golok lol.

Yeah I take it back. Paul bos or peter heat treat does their treatment. Them grinding it and getting it too hot might have caused the problem not to mention having a thin edge. I've been babying my grasso bolo 3 since I had some rolls but now I might just start chopping hard with it and see what results I get.
 
If you search the internet you can find information to support any agenda. The other knives weren't tried against the same knot, were they?
 
If you search the internet you can find information to support any agenda. The other knives weren't tried against the same knot, were they?


How about the part were you saw sparks? Come to think of it their 5160 steel is hardened too hard. Dan Maragni and Bill Siegles 5160's are tough to the bone
 
well they do put the final grinding after they get it back from HT, I believe its possible to ruin the temper and HT when this last step is done, just my 0.02. I realize BR heat treats many knives at one time and if one is bad then they're all bad but what about when they do the final grinding? I haven't seen anyone talk about that. And no I'm not a company basher just my opinion, my small collection is mainly BR knives and i love em but they might just be putting out too many knives too fast and not able to make sure the knives are (more) perfect. Just an opinion, I love BR but there are lots of stories of this happening, i hope it doesnt happen to my golok lol.
Finger, AFAIK...
The only grinding.
Water jet to heat treat then to the shop where the convex grind is done.
Then the CNC'd handle slabs are added and shaped.
Finally the blade is sharpened.

As for the maker's claim that it can't be a bad heat treat.
He's most likely right.
But...

Symantics... it can't be a bad heat treat... but how about a ruined heat treat?

Having said that, the chopper gets a C for form.
Maybe a D.
The 2x4 is bouncing around.*
It is on the ground. That makes puts the user in an awkward position**.
The hits (with any of the knives) aren't near consistent. There are marks on the front edge and the back edge of the board, as well as in the middle, left and right of the aiming point.
The blade is bouncing on the wood... bad form and dangerous as well. Whether a dull edge or overpowered swings or both, it doesn't matter.

*Just like chopping on a branch still connected to the tree, the board is moving on impact.
**This can torque the blade and cause chips or bends... along with the board moving

That's why when you chop a branch, you cut toward where the branch is supported.
A sapling, down. A branch towards the trunk.
Never a vertical cut on an attached horizontal branch.

This test is a more like a stunt than a test.

Better yet "playing"

Why the knife broke is probably a combination of technique & build.

There's plenty of blame to go around.
 
So many variables can make this happen and you're probably right that's its a combination of user error and possibly manufacturing, makes sense. Oh and what does AFAIK stand for? lol, sorry not up to date with these groovy kids these days lol.
 
Finger, AFAIK...
The only grinding.
Water jet to heat treat then to the shop where the convex grind is done.
Then the CNC'd handle slabs are added and shaped.
Finally the blade is sharpened.

As for the maker's claim that it can't be a bad heat treat.
He's most likely right.
But...

Symantics... it can't be a bad heat treat... but how about a ruined heat treat?

Having said that, the chopper gets a C for form.
Maybe a D.
The 2x4 is bouncing around.*
It is on the ground. That makes puts the user in an awkward position**.
The hits (with any of the knives) aren't near consistent. There are marks on the front edge and the back edge of the board, as well as in the middle, left and right of the aiming point.
The blade is bouncing on the wood... bad form and dangerous as well. Whether a dull edge or overpowered swings or both, it doesn't matter.

*Just like chopping on a branch still connected to the tree, the board is moving on impact.
**This can torque the blade and cause chips or bends... along with the board moving

That's why when you chop a branch, you cut toward where the branch is supported.
A sapling, down. A branch towards the trunk.
Never a vertical cut on an attached horizontal branch.

This test is a more like a stunt than a test.

Better yet "playing"

Why the knife broke is probably a combination of technique & build.

There's plenty of blame to go around.


It's the simplest test ever, a test someone would do upon getting a new knife. I agree with what you said though. Nice thought
 
I would like to know how thin its ground at the edge. He also seems to be leaving a lot of blade on the table. Who chops halfway down the length of a blade? Might as well carry half the knife.
 
Interesting how there's a combination of dings and chips. Another possible indicator that the HT was compromised through grinding as I imagine they may be periodically water-dipping these blades to cool them rather than using a water-cooled grinding system on them. If they're overheating the edge to a severe degree where it's that thin then perhaps the heating/cooling is actually significant enough to be effectively zone-quenching the edge while the material just behind it is still tough enough to deform.

I could be way off the mark, but it sure is curious and I'm just tossing ideas out there. :p
 
I guess the bigger question is whether or not Bark River chooses to warranty it. Manufacturing errors happen; what is done to rectify the situation is what is truly important.
 
the bk9 looked too hit a knot and didnt chip the ontario looked like it hit nearly flat once or twice so technique not with stansing i would think a knife at the price of the bolo would not chip like that but i'm a fan of knives i could afford too break not one that would make me cry when it bit the knot lol!!
 
I do believe its HT issues, never had a problem with my Ontario Rtak 2, battoned straight through an 8" log with horrid knots and the blade was literally bent in the log at a 30--35 degree angle. This was seasoned wood all knotted up as soon as the job was done the blade straightened out as if nothing happened i was amazed it didn't snap or chip or anything. That's what you call a good HT, and i just gave that knife to good friend, always a joy to give away knives to people who don't know a good quality blade.
 
I think it may be heat treatment issues, but the problem isn't with the heat treatment itself being faulty. They have their HT work done by Peters' and I can personally attest to the quality of their work. So either the heat treatment is being compromised somehow during grinding, which BRK does post-HT, or BRK is telling Peters' to run the HT on the blanks harder than they should really be done. Could even be both. But heat treatment as it comes from Peters' I can pretty much guarantee as being solidly done.
 
From that video footage, I saw several heavy duty blades all hacking at the same board. Only one blade failed, irrespective of knots or chopping technique. Isn't chopping through brush, timber, etc. supposed to be expected for big blades like those shown? For a knife of the BR's supposed quality and price, that failure is unacceptable. I was very interested in the BR model tested, and was researching it for a future purchase. No more. My decision is to go with the Becker 9.
 
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