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There's a sometimes unexpected bit of physics that occurs in a flash when you hit a small branch with a knife,
that causes it to to snap back and grab the blade with a great deal of force.
Aye - especially if you are not putting force on the branch with your off hand.
Plus tension cutting is vastly more efficient than just hacking at the branch.With tension cutting, it's not so much chopping as it is a push cut...which helps minimize those kinds of accidents.
With tension cutting, it's not so much chopping as it is a push cut...which helps minimize those kinds of accidents.
There's a sometimes unexpected bit of physics that occurs in a flash when you hit a small branch with a knife,
that causes it to to snap back and grab the blade with a great deal of force.
This whole "don't chop small sticks" thing has been discussed here before, and with the overall conclusion being that it's complete BS.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/980561-What-can-you-fairly-expect-a-knife-to-do
Do you guys honestly believe that something like that could cause such a catastrophic failure in any modern, well heat treated steel? It's ridiculous. 154CM isn't as tough as something like 5160, but it won't shatter like glass any time moderate force is applied. The knife obviously has a heat treat issue. (And this isn't the first time something like this has happened with the Blackbird, either.) As someone said in the thread I linked to, it's a safe bet that a five dollar kitchen knife wouldn't have taken the damage that this knife did.
Heat treat seems to be the most probable cause, especially seeing as the Blackbirds have had HT problems in the past.
"Shatter" was a hyperbole.
154CM isn't a particularly strong steel, but it isn't weak, either. It should've handled this no problem. (And I still haven't seen any evidence as to this whole "lateral load on edge" thing.)
Heat treat seems to be the most probable cause, especially seeing as the Blackbirds have had HT problems in the past.
"Shatter" was a hyperbole.
154CM isn't a particularly strong steel, but it isn't weak, either. It should've handled this no problem. (And I still haven't seen any evidence as to this whole "lateral load on edge" thing.)
Called ontario knife co. They would be glad to replace it(after examination), basically send a new one scales and all. I sent it out today as well, so I will find out what they decide in a couple weeks or hopefully less. Cool beans!Good factory customer service means that they will stand behind their product. No sweat, friend.
Sonnydaze
Between light to moderate chopping and batoning during its life. Only trees its seen were alder and spruce. We have some cedar, but I don't recall cutting any. The branches that did the damage were on a dead fallen spruce(damp too). At the base of the branches(where it was damaged) they didn't bend much. Could've been technique, could have been weakened from the cold weather, who knows/who cares. It's all up to OKC nowWhat "evidence" - one way or the other? He was chopping branches on a tree and they were small. That is so unspecific as to provide no basis for reasoned analysis. Dead/live? If dead, dry or wet? Oak/poplar/hickory? Did they or did they not bend when struck? How deeply imbedded was the blade when the two pieces broke out? What WAS the RC of the blade in the two places where pieces chipped out?
No need to explain hyperbole. I saw the "reviews" of this knife. 0___0 Finest survival knife ever made. (the 1932nd "finest" this year [hyperbole]) Apparently made of finest unobtanium masquerading as CM154..
We have seen one other break in an entirely different place (about where that 1/4" thick Cold Steel famously broke) and not when chopping - much less branches on a tree that may have moved while being chopped.
I am not saying you're wrong. I do believe there is insufficient evidence (to use a word) to come to any firm conclusion.
Fourtytwoblades,
Who, of the mass producers, do you think has a consistently executed HT?
Just wondered what you thought..