Another "critique my newest knives" thread, this time they're better to start with!

S

spydercobenchmadekai

Joined
Sep 26, 2013
Messages
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Last go around, you guys gave me great suggestions about how to make better knives. This time I:

Tried to get the grind as high as possible
Didn't include knots in the wood
Didn't leave handle material on the guard
Didn't put the pins in a line

What I would do differently next time is to back up the wood scale that I'm drilling with scrap wood so that it doesn't break out and look ugly. What else can I do better?

Hot off the workbench:








Specs, of course!

Steel: 1095 @ 0.93" tempered to around 59 hrc
0.125" brass pins--2 or 3

Nessmuk:
Blade length: 4"
Cutting edge: 3.75"
Overall length: 7.75"
Handle thickness: 0.5"
Russian olive scales stained dark with Red Oak and oiled with Canola oil
Hand-rubbed "antique" finish

Drop point:
Blade length: 4"
Cutting edge: 3.5"
Overall length: 7.75"
Handle thickness: 0.6"
Natural linen Micarta oiled with Canola oil
Blue paper liners

Not For Sale...duh.
 
Just get a membership and start selling these already ;)
 
They look alright. What I would suggest though is rounding that choil out more so it's not such a sharp notch which can create a week point. More rounded would also give a bit better flow overall I think. Secondly, I would skip the jumping but that's just me. It is overly aggressive and deep enough it may be a stress riser.
 
It wasn't intended to be a choil. It started out as a small sharpening notch, but I got carried away... Next time I'll either add a real choil or I will make the notch smaller.

I also agree that the jimping (especially on the drop point) is a little over done. What do you think of the jimping on the Nessmuk? It is a lot more rounded.
 
Hey Looking good.

Perhaps more of a handle contouring where the middle of the handle has more thickness and less where your pinky and forefinger indexes.

Also not really a critique but just a different way of doing it. Ive had some nice straight jimping from a high TPI hack saw.

The micarta one is my fav =) keep it up!

The pin on the wood handled one is a bit close to the end of the scale. bring it back a little.
 
i think these look pretty good, I am only a novice also.

On the first it kind of looks like the wood has torn out near the pins (?) might just be the lighting.

Just a matter of personal taste the blue spacer and brown handles do not mesh so well together! (thats just me though).
 
ken1111 said:
Hey Looking good.

Perhaps more of a handle contouring where the middle of the handle has more thickness and less where your pinky and forefinger indexes.
Click to expand...

Yes, I should do that. That would also give the Kydex sheaths (which I will try my hand at making this weekend) something to retain. :thumbup:

ken1111 said:
Also not really a critique but just a different way of doing it. Ive had some nice straight jimping from a high TPI hack saw.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I may try that--I've been using either a diamond dremel bit or the belt sander.

ken1111 said:
The micarta one is my fav =) keep it up!

The pin on the wood handled one is a bit close to the end of the scale. bring it back a little.
Click to expand...

I know--I drilled the tang hole before I realized how close it was to the blade. :(
 
ndp_2010 said:
i think these look pretty good, I am only a novice also.

On the first it kind of looks like the wood has torn out near the pins (?) might just be the lighting.
Click to expand...

spydercobenchmadekai said:
What I would do differently next time is to back up the wood scale that I'm drilling with scrap wood so that it doesn't break out and look ugly. What else can I do better?
Click to expand...

;)

ndp_2010 said:
Just a matter of personal taste the blue spacer and brown handles do not mesh so well together! (thats just me though).
Click to expand...

Interesting. I combined the yellowish linen Micart and the blue on purpose to make the blue "pop." Plus, blue and yellow are my favorite colors, so I was partial to that combination.
 
I think you would be well served to put the power tools away for a while and use files. Slow down and use more care and precision in all that you do. These knives look like they were hurried. With hand tools you will have much more control in the depth of your plunge lines and jimping and the flats on your bevels. Your handles will also benefit from the forced slow down from using hand tools like files and wood backed sandpaper pushed by hand.
Keep at it and try to make each piece the best that you possibly can!
 
Last edited:
PURPLEDC said:
any videos or pics of the knife surviving testing?
Click to expand...

There are currently 2 videos out: one showing the grinding, the other showing the heat treating. The next video will show the attachment of the handles, and the final video will be testing. So to answer your question, yes, there will be, but not yet.

centennial said:
I think you would be well served to put the power tools away for a while and use files. Slow down and use more care and precision in all that you do. These knives look like they were hurried. With hand tools you will have much more control in the depth of your plunge lines and jimping and the flats on your bevels. Your handles will also benefit from the forced slow down from using hand tools like files and wood backed sandpaper pushed by hand.
Keep at it and try to make each piece the best that you possibly can!
Click to expand...

I will try to go slower in the future. Is there a reason that most people prefer a flat or hollow grind over a convex primary bevel?

My dad is becoming interested in knife making, and he may want to buy a new belt grinder. With a budget of about $400, which one would you recommend?
 
I will echo what centennial said. Slow down some and use files, especially with the jimping. If you feel you need to add something to the spine spend some time looking at different file work patterns and try some of that. As for the bevel grinds, flat and hollow each have their own geometrical advantages over convex. That, and they don't look like someone took an angle grinder to a lawn mower blade. :D

Chris
 
use round files for the jimping and sharpening choil - less chance of making favorable conditions for a crack (i.e. stress riser)
round transitions from guard to handle and guard to blade look better and are more comfortable.
if you're going to use a vegetable oil for a wood finish, use one that actually cures, such as walnut oil -- canola, olive, corn, etc... will eventually go rancid.
spend less time using coarse grits when grinding your primary bevels - or at least more time with the finer grits. That last pic of the nessmuk before you give the specs looks pretty coarse/unfinished.
when drilling pin holes, drill into the front side of the scale so blow-outs become pockets for epoxy to fill

for your dad - a Craftsman 2x42 is a decent belt grinder. I also like using an oscillating spindle sander for handle shaping - as it lets me shape convex curves (choils & finger grooves) and clean up file marks on the handle quickly and easily. The craftsman can occasionally be found for about $140 and a spindle sander for $80 on sale. (regular price is around $170 for the belt sander and $140 for the spindle)
 
I might try to get some files for jimping/file work. Is there a reason that they work better that a dremel wit ha round diamond-coated bit?

Yesterday, I bought some Tung oil, so the knives are now finished with that.

I will look at the Craftsman. Ideally, I would like to find a 2x24 or 2x72 grinder with variable speed control, a large wheel for hollow grinding, and a large (enough) motor. However, these options seem to cost $1,000+. Would it be viable to build a grinder? We have a torch and an arc welder, so welding is no problem.
 
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