Another "critique my newest knives" thread, this time they're better to start with!

As for the finish on the Nessmuk, I wanted it to be that way on purpose. I ran it at 80, then skipped to 320, 600, and 1,000. I then hand sanded against the grind patern, and buffed it out by hand with oil and medium (1,500 grit approx.) pumice stone. That way, it would have the "grind marks" but also be shiny and resistant to rust.
 
spydercobenchmadekai said:
As for the finish on the Nessmuk, I wanted it to be that way on purpose. I ran it at 80, then skipped to 320, 600, and 1,000. I then hand sanded against the grind patern, and buffed it out by hand with oil and medium (1,500 grit approx.) pumice stone. That way, it would have the "grind marks" but also be shiny and resistant to rust.
Click to expand...

No offense, but aesthetically it doesn't work. It just looks like you moved too fast through the belts. There's nothing intentional about the look.

As for the beveling, I must say that when I look at what you have created it reminds me of one of my first "knives" made on the 1 x 30. It ended up being a letter opener for my father. It was never sharp enough to be anything more than that.

My advice would be to use the 1 x 30 less and become more familiar with doing the grinding with files. I think you'll find you have better control, and will get better results. There would also be fewer reasons to have to rationalize the grind lines.
 
By the way, I have to ask... what's with that center image in your signature area? The one that says "BH #909 There are so many reasons that you can't not have not no BK9!"

Is that supposed to be a joke?
 
spydercobenchmadekai said:
I might try to get some files for jimping/file work. Is there a reason that they work better that a dremel wit ha round diamond-coated bit?
Click to expand...
In my experience, the Dremmel is way too fast. Mistakes happen quick with high RPMs. You need a super steady hand as well. Files are more precise and controlled as stated previously.
 
Without even getting into the profile of the blades, the grind and the handles, I think the biggest thing you could do to improve your knives is to use more files like others have recommended, and quit using the belt altogether for the detail work. Your spanish notch would be perfectly round and perfectly sized if you used a file. Using the corner of the belt to cut into metal is a bad habit, I would suggest always finding another tool or solution - all the things that are supposed to be round turn out to be triangles.

Also, take time and layout your jimping before you use a file. spend more time on each knife - instead of making your goal "make knives with power tools", make your goal "make the best knife I can possibly make no matter how long it takes". After you figure that out you can start integrating methods that you find speed up your progress without sacrificing quality.

Flat grinds will be easier for you to make look good right now, so I would strongly suggest doing some with flat grinds or sabre grinds.

As for the finish, I think I know what you were going for with the Brown Micarta one - I have some Spydercos that have grind lines but also have a luster to them. I think that it's more of a result of the metal used, and stopping at an intermediate grit than blending two finishes - but I would need better pictures to say whether you did a good job of mimicking it.

Some of you guys need to lighten up. It's a thread to get constructive criticism on a knife, and he takes it well. It's not a thread to knock his signature or his haircut.
 
A Justice said:
Some of you guys need to lighten up. It's a thread to get constructive criticism on a knife, and he takes it well. It's not a thread to knock his signature or his haircut.
Click to expand...

Interesting. You think it's heavy handed to ask about something that might give people the wrong impression about him? Perhaps you're right. If so, I apologize for any offense my curiosity created.
 
I'll just throw a few small suggestions out there...

The pins on the first knife look all over the place. They don't necessarily have to be in a straight line, but they should at least be centered between the front and back of the handle scales. The second one looks much better. It also looks like you have some tear out by each pin. Use sharp bits at the proper speed, and drill from the outside in. That way, any tear out will be on the inside of your handle.

Your jimping looks very uncomfortable in its current "saw tooth" design. If you're going to use a triangular file, don't file the notches as close together, or conversely, if you want them close together, don't go as deep.

Finally, pay extra close attention to your plunge lines when using a belt grinder. Don't change angles, and do try to stop at the same place every time. Sometimes, I'll wait until the very end to do a final clean up on my plunges.

Keep at it. Looks like you're well on your way.
 
Backing up the scales is a good idea. Actually, I do something different and it has worked well. Hard to explain though...I place the scale on the wrong side of the tang with the surface that I want showing UNDER the tang, but touching it. I then literally use spray adhesive to stick it there. I then drill through the tang and the scale. By doing this, the drill is drilling into the slab on the exposed surface side, so no blowouts. Anything that blows out underneath will be hidden as it will eventually be against the tang when I pull off the slabs and reset them to the proper side. I also like this method because I an adhere the second slab in the same manner and then flip the whole mess over and drill through all holes in the reverse manner. Everything lines up perfectly and all blowouts are irrelevant as they will be butted to the tang.

Seems a bit crazy as I read it back to myself...it works though.
 
Just remember slower = better at this point. Slow down and perfect a skill, the speed will come with practice. Get a couple round files in different sizes and a good triangle file or 2. You can use these for your jimping, filework patterns and you can also use the round files to establish your plunge line for primary bevels. Most all of us use a dremel type tool for one thing or another. The files in my opinion just provide a level of control you can't easily get with a dremel.

Unless you can get a steal on a good used grinder, I think the craftsman 2x42 is about the best buy for the money under 6 or $800. Yes, yes, I know it is screaming fast and I just said slower is better.:eek: I see right now sears has them for $152.xx and free shipping. I would go ahead and get a couple packages of the belts to take advantage of the free shipping. As others have stated, it also might be a good idea to go back to files even for the bevels for a while. I think you will be pleasantly surprised with the results you end up with. Even though I have always used a grinder of some sorts, I am considering doing some with files myself. I think it will improve my skill set and open some options for some blade designs that would be near impossible with my current set up.

While ordering supplies I would also advise ordering a couple respirators and some safety glasses if you don't already have them. I still catch myself without the mask occasionally. It is easier to start out using the proper safety techniques than to break old habits.

Some comments may seem blunt or harsh though I can say they are not meant to be. If no one ever told us what we were doing wrong, we would never improve and you seem to get this.

Good for you on picking up a hobby that most of us waited until we were at least twice your age. :thumbup:

Chris
 
Aside from the pin placement as other people mentionned, you might want to try rounding your handles a bit more. They are still blocky. But don't worry, it is a classic problem with just about everyone's first few knives.
Keep it up. :thumbup:
 
CJZ said:
Just get a membership and start selling these already ;)
Click to expand...

CJZ - While spydiebench has shown a lot of improvement, he isn't ready to sell them yet :)

Spydie -
You have definitely improved.
Work on your finish and sanding until you can get the blades smooth and not show scratches.
I personally don't like the file work you did, but that is mostly a mater of taste. Why not make a few without it and see if they look better or worse to you.
Pin placement should be considered more, and be more even.
 
BTW, if you look hard enough, you can source enough parts for a NWGS (No Weld Grinder Sander) and be set up with a basic flat platen for less than $500. What's nice is that you'll have a fully capable grinder that will also be expandable/upgradable down the line.
 
Building one is a great experiment and good foundation of appreciation for the 1000+ ones... but that being said- its an awesome feeling to grind on something you made. Get a set of wheels, and go for it! Theres a great set of plans for the "NO-WELD Grinder" that are worth the cost- or free stuff online. The only thing I will say is do NOT skimp on the tracking wheel and adjuster. The mate I learned from hashed his up- and while functional... time spent fiddiling with the tuning was wasted grinder time to learn on- and frustrating.

<< Is there a reason that they work better that a dremel wit ha round diamond-coated bit?>>
YES- the dremel, grinder, ANY machine tool creates forces you manually cannot control. Its like trying to write your name with an electro-graver pen versus a perfectly sharpened pencil... one looks like you've had 2+ pots of coffee and are suffering withdraw tremors... while the other one is legible and smooth... MANUAL dexterity is the norm for precision work with hand tools. And its not practice makes perfect either- "Perfect planning AND practice make perfect" (and no- Im not there yet either- Im STILL learning how to do basic operations- BUT Im farther along than I was!)

You can swing into Harbor Freight and get a set of needle files for 10 bucks that will come in 7 shapes- each have their distinct flair and flavor adding ability to your jimping. Vine work and file-work your heart out- and for the price- get 2 sets so you will be able to "safe edge" the ones that need to get in tight areas!

The knives look rough- but entirely functional- for that- Thumbs UP! Now its refining the lines/form/flow... Looks like a great start!
 
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I would highly consider making a jig for grinding the bevels. Mine were never perfectly straight until i made one. Even if you did mess up, you can go back and free hand it to correct the problem. But back to the jig, when i made mine all I used was what I had. WHat i had was some scrap angle iron set at a 90 degree angle and use mini c clamps to hold the blade on and just set the angle with the tool rest. works like a charm :thumbup:

Gary
 
tryppyr said:
By the way, I have to ask... what's with that center image in your signature area? The one that says "BH #909 There are so many reasons that you can't not have not no BK9!"

Is that supposed to be a joke?
Click to expand...

Sort of an inside joke with some of the Becker Heads.

Sgt John said:
In my experience, the Dremmel is way too fast. Mistakes happen quick with high RPMs. You need a super steady hand as well. Files are more precise and controlled as stated previously.
Click to expand...

I see. That makes sense!

A Justice said:
Without even getting into the profile of the blades, the grind and the handles, I think the biggest thing you could do to improve your knives is to use more files like others have recommended, and quit using the belt altogether for the detail work. Your spanish notch would be perfectly round and perfectly sized if you used a file. Using the corner of the belt to cut into metal is a bad habit, I would suggest always finding another tool or solution - all the things that are supposed to be round turn out to be triangles.

Also, take time and layout your jimping before you use a file. spend more time on each knife - instead of making your goal "make knives with power tools", make your goal "make the best knife I can possibly make no matter how long it takes". After you figure that out you can start integrating methods that you find speed up your progress without sacrificing quality.

Flat grinds will be easier for you to make look good right now, so I would strongly suggest doing some with flat grinds or sabre grinds.

As for the finish, I think I know what you were going for with the Brown Micarta one - I have some Spydercos that have grind lines but also have a luster to them. I think that it's more of a result of the metal used, and stopping at an intermediate grit than blending two finishes - but I would need better pictures to say whether you did a good job of mimicking it.

Some of you guys need to lighten up. It's a thread to get constructive criticism on a knife, and he takes it well. It's not a thread to knock his signature or his haircut.
Click to expand...

Great info! I will for sure get some files and do more manual work on the detail stuff.

knife to a gunfight said:
I'll just throw a few small suggestions out there...

The pins on the first knife look all over the place. They don't necessarily have to be in a straight line, but they should at least be centered between the front and back of the handle scales. The second one looks much better. It also looks like you have some tear out by each pin. Use sharp bits at the proper speed, and drill from the outside in. That way, any tear out will be on the inside of your handle.

Your jimping looks very uncomfortable in its current "saw tooth" design. If you're going to use a triangular file, don't file the notches as close together, or conversely, if you want them close together, don't go as deep.

Finally, pay extra close attention to your plunge lines when using a belt grinder. Don't change angles, and do try to stop at the same place every time. Sometimes, I'll wait until the very end to do a final clean up on my plunges.

Keep at it. Looks like you're well on your way.
Click to expand...

Once again, great suggestions! I'll try to add these changes next go around.

Salolan said:
Just remember slower = better at this point. Slow down and perfect a skill, the speed will come with practice. Get a couple round files in different sizes and a good triangle file or 2. You can use these for your jimping, filework patterns and you can also use the round files to establish your plunge line for primary bevels. Most all of us use a dremel type tool for one thing or another. The files in my opinion just provide a level of control you can't easily get with a dremel.

Unless you can get a steal on a good used grinder, I think the craftsman 2x42 is about the best buy for the money under 6 or $800. Yes, yes, I know it is screaming fast and I just said slower is better.:eek: I see right now sears has them for $152.xx and free shipping. I would go ahead and get a couple packages of the belts to take advantage of the free shipping. As others have stated, it also might be a good idea to go back to files even for the bevels for a while. I think you will be pleasantly surprised with the results you end up with. Even though I have always used a grinder of some sorts, I am considering doing some with files myself. I think it will improve my skill set and open some options for some blade designs that would be near impossible with my current set up.

While ordering supplies I would also advise ordering a couple respirators and some safety glasses if you don't already have them. I still catch myself without the mask occasionally. It is easier to start out using the proper safety techniques than to break old habits.

Some comments may seem blunt or harsh though I can say they are not meant to be. If no one ever told us what we were doing wrong, we would never improve and you seem to get this.

Good for you on picking up a hobby that most of us waited until we were at least twice your age. :thumbup:

Chris
Click to expand...

Thanks for the ideas! Between the Craftsman 1x42 and the Kalamazoo 1x42, which one would you get? I already use a 3m respirator (the one with the pink filters), rubber safety goggles, and earplugs.

Patrice Lemée;13164805 said:
Aside from the pin placement as other people mentionned, you might want to try rounding your handles a bit more. They are still blocky. But don't worry, it is a classic problem with just about everyone's first few knives.
Keep it up. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Do you mean that I should just round the edges more, or do you mean that I should add contour swells? (Or both.) Either way, I will be sure to try this out.

bladsmth said:
CJZ - While spydiebench has shown a lot of improvement, he isn't ready to sell them yet :)

Spydie -
You have definitely improved.
Work on your finish and sanding until you can get the blades smooth and not show scratches.
I personally don't like the file work you did, but that is mostly a mater of taste. Why not make a few without it and see if they look better or worse to you.
Pin placement should be considered more, and be more even.
Click to expand...

Will do! Thanks.

silverforgestudio said:
Building one is a great experiment and good foundation of appreciation for the 1000+ ones... but that being said- its an awesome feeling to grind on something you made. Get a set of wheels, and go for it! Theres a great set of plans for the "NO-WELD Grinder" that are worth the cost- or free stuff online. The only thing I will say is do NOT skimp on the tracking wheel and adjuster. The mate I learned from hashed his up- and while functional... time spent fiddiling with the tuning was wasted grinder time to learn on- and frustrating.

<< Is there a reason that they work better that a dremel wit ha round diamond-coated bit?>>
YES- the dremel, grinder, ANY machine tool creates forces you manually cannot control. Its like trying to write your name with an electro-graver pen versus a perfectly sharpened pencil... one looks like you've had 2+ pots of coffee and are suffering withdraw tremors... while the other one is legible and smooth... MANUAL dexterity is the norm for precision work with hand tools. And its not practice makes perfect either- "Perfect planning AND practice make perfect" (and no- Im not there yet either- Im STILL learning how to do basic operations- BUT Im farther along than I was!)

You can swing into Harbor Freight and get a set of needle files for 10 bucks that will come in 7 shapes- each have their distinct flair and flavor adding ability to your jimping. Vine work and file-work your heart out- and for the price- get 2 sets so you will be able to "safe edge" the ones that need to get in tight areas!

The knives look rough- but entirely functional- for that- Thumbs UP! Now its refining the lines/form/flow... Looks like a great start!
Click to expand...

Thanks! Needle files will be used in the next few knives for sure.

GaryPogueCustomKnife said:
I would highly consider making a jig for grinding the bevels. Mine were never perfectly straight until i made one. Even if you did mess up, you can go back and free hand it to correct the problem. But back to the jig, when i made mine all I used was what I had. WHat i had was some scrap angle iron set at a 90 degree angle and use mini c clamps to hold the blade on and just set the angle with the tool rest. works like a charm :thumbup:

Gary
Click to expand...

Interesting...do you have pictures of this set up? I would like to try this out.
 
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More pictures:

First, a shot showing my progression since last August; the oldest knife is at the top.



Here is another picture of the two on this thread:



And finally, here is a glamour shot of the Micarta/drop point:

 
Coop may weigh in on the last "glamour shot"... read his threads on photography! :)

Good progression. Keep it up- and never let these go. make an album of the "start" so others can see your progress!
 
Nice job with the photo's, and knives. Coop has a great thread showing you how to make a little photo studio box. Made one myself, and from another thread bought a Canon A590 IS for like $20 on the bay, supposed to be a good cheap camera that will do better than my iphone :D
 
Thanks guys! In case anyone cares:

These were done with a Canon G12, since I was lazy and didn't feel like pulling out one of the fance Nikon DSLRs.
I shot the glamour shot as 4 pictures. The 3 knife pictures were taken with a wood chopping block bacground, with a flash used as fill. The 4th photo is a pic of the freezing Hudson Bay that I took last November in Churchill.
I photoshopped these 4 together; it's not perfect, but unless you "know photoshop" you wouldn't be able to tell what's wrong. ;)
 
I don't really "know" photoshop, but digital imagining is one of my electives, keep in mind I'm using CS4...here's what I would do differently; when you're taking your pics, a light tent, or a couple lamps with something to diffuse the light (make sure you don't catch anything on fire!) would help elimination shadows. Furthermore, pick a background before you take your pictures, you want like colors, it will help hide any mistakes in the crop. Now, get one of your pictures open in photoshop > click and hold the magic wand tool until the menu appears > choose the magic wand tool > click on your background > if it doesn't select your entire background, hold the shift key and click anywhere the background isn't selected > go up to the "select" menu and use the invert command (it's something like that) > now only the knife will be selected > then use the keyboard command Control + J and it will move it into a new layer > add a background.

Hope that helps Eli. :)
 
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