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Another dagger?!?!
- Thread starter tryppyr
- Start date
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- Feb 5, 2010
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Yesterday I *finally* finished making the pillow my wife wanted for decorating the living room for the holidays. Now I can get back to spending spare time on this knife. So I did spend some time working on it yesterday and got the center lines better defined. I think now it's time to switch from files to sandpaper.
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- Aug 13, 2002
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- 5,703
Please tell me that the pillow making thing is something they infected you with during the abduction. 
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2002
- Messages
- 5,703
In this case Greg believe me, it would have been perfectly acceptable to lie.
I know nothing about sewing but looks to me like you are pretty good at it.
I know nothing about sewing but looks to me like you are pretty good at it.
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2010
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- 3,911
I did some more sanding on the blade yesterday, and now 3 out of 4 bevels are clean to 100 grit.
I've noticed that using the Nick Wheeler method of sanding is causing the blade to warp, almost certainly because I am putting more pressure on the blade with each stroke.
I have not been using the hand sanding jig he demonstrated, but now I think I have to stop and spend time making one to avoid this problem. I have actually conceived a simpler (albeit less functional) version that I'll go with first. Basically, my version will be a 12 inch long section of very thick L-bracket with no second surface or set screws. Small C-clamps will hold the blade in place at the tang, and the rest of the piece will simply provide support along the length of the blade. I'll snap a picture once I've got it set up.
I've noticed that using the Nick Wheeler method of sanding is causing the blade to warp, almost certainly because I am putting more pressure on the blade with each stroke.
I have not been using the hand sanding jig he demonstrated, but now I think I have to stop and spend time making one to avoid this problem. I have actually conceived a simpler (albeit less functional) version that I'll go with first. Basically, my version will be a 12 inch long section of very thick L-bracket with no second surface or set screws. Small C-clamps will hold the blade in place at the tang, and the rest of the piece will simply provide support along the length of the blade. I'll snap a picture once I've got it set up.
Hengelo_77
Basic Member
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2006
- Messages
- 6,307
just be carefull that your jig doesn't scratch you finised bevels when you turn the blade around.
I always have some paper between the blade and whatever I clamp it to.
I always have some paper between the blade and whatever I clamp it to.
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- Feb 5, 2010
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I think the enamel on the L-bracket is protecting the blade (for now).
Today I spent another hour working the 100 grit paper to get the file gouges out. Still not QUITE done, but a heck of lot closer. Needless to say, the pesky gouges are the ones nearest the spine and ricasso.
Today I spent another hour working the 100 grit paper to get the file gouges out. Still not QUITE done, but a heck of lot closer. Needless to say, the pesky gouges are the ones nearest the spine and ricasso.
daizee
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Dec 30, 2009
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- 11,173
Tryppyr, it's not the clamping surface that's the threat - it's the grit that gets *between* the clamping surface and your polished surfaces. Throw some masking tape on the finished surfaces.
Looking good. I can't believe you're doing another one of these by hand. I'm impressed. When you get that grinder you're going to open an armory.
-Daizee
Looking good. I can't believe you're doing another one of these by hand. I'm impressed. When you get that grinder you're going to open an armory.
-Daizee
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- Feb 5, 2010
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Thanks. I too think this one shows a bit better technique, especially in the ricasso area.
Today I spent some time sanding the ricasso (up to 800 grit), largely to get that out of the way and allow me to focus on the bevels. I also started working through the grits, and have done one side of the blade to 220 grit. Not much to see yet, so I won't post another set of pictures until I get past 400 grit, by which time the change should be more obvious. I'll push it up to 800 grit before sending it off to HT.
Today I spent some time sanding the ricasso (up to 800 grit), largely to get that out of the way and allow me to focus on the bevels. I also started working through the grits, and have done one side of the blade to 220 grit. Not much to see yet, so I won't post another set of pictures until I get past 400 grit, by which time the change should be more obvious. I'll push it up to 800 grit before sending it off to HT.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
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For future reference, I wish folks would contact me privately about something like this and ask me about the issues they think my advice is causing...
Because posting this type of statement for a million people to see makes it look like I'm shelling out ideas/advice that are screwing peoples' knives up. Hand sanding isn't going to warp a blade. Leaning too hard on an annealed blade might bend it, but I am always adamant about supporting the blade. If hand sanding were bending a heat treated blade, then it would be heat treating issues, not sanding.
Thanks
