Another question this time about oil Quenching

Now that I know what Oil Quench to get and where to get it. Now it is time for me to start building my forge. Maybe this weekend I'll get it done just have to find the stuff to get it done.
 
blackgrub0331 said:
How much does a good quenching oil costs? I'v pnly seen a price for the Brownell’s tough-quench at about $40 for a gal. I think I will not need more then a gal so what price I'm I looking at?
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Try checking with Houghton directly and see if they can get you a better deal on 5 Gallons. Trust me it is infinitely better to have too much than too little. Quantities of oil to insufficient to absorb the heat introduced, particularly if you are doing more than one blade, can be a serious problem. When I have oil on hand and am able to offer it to others I always put it in 5 gallon quanitites for this reason.


Fox, the sheets I have show those tests where done on the #50 at 100F. but the AAA isn't really clear since it could be 100F or 140F. There are many more numbers and charts, and tests on the sheets but I have a motherboared dying on my computer and a bathroom competely disassembled, and my wife has made it clear the I have "other" priorities today;) . Let me know specific numbers I may help with and I will look over the papers when I get the time in this chaos I call life.
 
Blackgrub, when contacting Houghton, you will be looking for their "Houghto-Quench G", product, assuming you want the Tough-Quench equivalent. Make sure you ask them for detailed data sheets for the product and its cooling properties at various temperatures.

Kevin, what I am looking for are the correlations between quenchant heat and cooling speed. If it is in chart form, then just two or three of the main data points would be fine. There is no need for every data point. I am looking for something similar to the Houghton information for defining the range of speed. For Houghton, it appears that the main data points are low, mid and high;10.0/150 F, 11.0/200 F & 11.5/100 F, for the cooling range.
 
I just looked up Houghton's contact info and the Telephone number is 416-763-4691. I will be calling their Edmonton affiliate at noon to find prices. Thanks to all who helped me find a Canadian supplier of quenching oil- when I posted the question on Canadian connection all i got was "use ATF"

I just contacted their local affiliate and a 20L pail will cost me $84 Canadian with a 10 day wait time
 
As was mentioned above, there is some great information in this thread, But when you suggest that a man go out and purchase 175 dollars worth of guenchant to do his first knife in, are we missing the point. I quenched in transmission fluid and used peanut oil, the first year I made knives, Now there was a special smell.:foot::foot:
Its your first knife, use whatever you have handy thats not flamable and see what happens. Learning is the best part of knifemaking.

Fred
 
My first was in water because i thought "how different could it be?"...I did learn something that time, though, so its part of the process. As in anything new, you will screw it up before you get it right about 99% of the time. I'd dive in with both feet with whatever you've got...if it sticks and you itch for more, be sure to switch to something made for the job. You grind with a grinder, sand with sandpaper, file with a file...may as well quench with quenching oil.
 
Fred,I wasn't suggesting that anyone new to knifemaking go out and buy a bucket of quench oil anymore than I would suggest buying a KMG to make your first knife. The thread was a question about the difference in quenchants :

Another question this time about oil Quenching
Does it matter what type of oil you use to do this? I know I've seen guys used mortar oil and I thought I've even heard of people using olive oil. Now is one type of oil better then the other?


That was what we were discussing. ( Your point was quite valid,though)
Stacy
 
To further the discussion now that I have a source of quenchant- is there anything important I need to know before I start. For example- are the fumes noxious/ dangerous; how common is flareup, ect. I work in my basement so any extra info is greatly appreciated.

And yes- I have full facemask and fire extinguisher redily available- will probably quench in an old, deep chili pot with lid.
 
bladsmth said:
Fred,I wasn't suggesting that anyone new to knifemaking go out and buy a bucket of quench oil anymore than I would suggest buying a KMG to make your first knife. The thread was a question about the difference in quenchants :

Another question this time about oil Quenching
Does it matter what type of oil you use to do this? I know I've seen guys used mortar oil and I thought I've even heard of people using olive oil. Now is one type of oil better then the other?


That was what we were discussing. ( Your point was quite valid,though)
Stacy
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Stacy,

I know your purpose was to be informative; to share, which is why most makers and perspective makers hang out on this forum. To me there is no other place like it.

The KMG for your first knife; maybe not practical but pleasurable.

I just started using tough quench after years of using home made concocshuns. The difference was apparent the first time I used it.
The rate of heat transfer and how clean the results for starters.
Being able to reproduce the same results, blade after blade, is a real plus.

Hope you are making some progress on the HT forge. Keep me posted.


Fred
 
CUTS LIKE A KRIS said:
To further the discussion now that I have a source of quenchant- is there anything important I need to know before I start. For example- are the fumes noxious/ dangerous; how common is flareup, ect. I work in my basement so any extra info is greatly appreciated.

And yes- I have full facemask and fire extinguisher redily available- will probably quench in an old, deep chili pot with lid.
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Work outside!:eek: The fumes are noxious. Most oil quenchants will burn.
Preheat the quenchant to 120 fh or so. Keep that lid handy!:thumbup:
Are you going to edge quench or submerge the whole blade and relieve the spine after?
Fred
 
I find that olive oil works fine and it doesn't stink. I quench 440C in it and it lasts for years. I think the two main factors in quenching is the temperature of your knives as they go into the oil, and the temperature of the oil itself.
 
Fred- depending on the knife I may edge quench or do a full quench. The HT oven I have is fairly small so I cannot do too many knives that will need impact strength and thus a full quench does not seem to bad for slicing duties. As well I have no torch and little extra funding so more purchases may well get me shot. I had a feeling that the quench will have to be outside so I guess I should hope for a nice warm winter. Will working in -20 Celcius have too fast of a cool down before submerging into the warm fluid (I don't believe it will but while on the topic...)?
 
This might be a wierd question but i thought I'd ask it. Could you use cutting oil to quench your blade in? Has anyone ever tried it? I just saw some in the Enco catalog and had that thought.
 
CUTS LIKE A KRIS said:
Fred- depending on the knife I may edge quench or do a full quench. The HT oven I have is fairly small so I cannot do too many knives that will need impact strength and thus a full quench does not seem to bad for slicing duties. As well I have no torch and little extra funding so more purchases may well get me shot. I had a feeling that the quench will have to be outside so I guess I should hope for a nice warm winter. Will working in -20 Celcius have too fast of a cool down before submerging into the warm fluid (I don't believe it will but while on the topic...)?
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Sounds like an edge quench would work well with that situation and no torch to work with. It takes less oil in the pan to edge quench. If you set a rest in the bottom of the quenching container and practice a few times until you get the motion down, you can pull that blade out of the heat and get it into the oil at the correct depth in record time.
Let us know how it goes, Fred
 
blackgrub0331 said:
This might be a wierd question but i thought I'd ask it. Could you use cutting oil to quench your blade in? Has anyone ever tried it? I just saw some in the Enco catalog and had that thought.
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I was asked the same question at work the other day- and got over a gallon from a division that was closing out (and about 300# of steel- non knife grade- good for fittings and fantasy knives)
 
CUTS LIKE A KRIS said:
I was asked the same question at work the other day- and got over a gallon from a division that was closing out (and about 300# of steel- non knife grade- good for fittings and fantasy knives)
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The cutting oil I saw was something like $13.49 a gal. I just wounder if it would cool it off to fast?
 
blackgrub0331 said:
The cutting oil I saw was something like $13.49 a gal. I just wounder if it would cool it off to fast?
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At that price it would be just as economical for me to get the Tough quench I found as my cost is $84 Canadian (5 Gal.) and your is about$70 (are you in the states- your profile does not say and such info may help with future questions)
But if that is what you want to get- try it out and see what your results are- it may work it may not but at least you are learning and would only be out 15 bucks.
 
CUTS LIKE A KRIS said:
At that price it would be just as economical for me to get the Tough quench I found as my cost is $84 Canadian (5 Gal.) and your is about$70 (are you in the states- your profile does not say and such info may help with future questions)
But if that is what you want to get- try it out and see what your results are- it may work it may not but at least you are learning and would only be out 15 bucks.
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Man that is cheap for the Tough quench I saw was about $30 something for 1 gal of it. If the Tough quench is that cheap I'll just buy some of that. I think I have a few months until I have the money to even build my forge so I'll have time to look around for stuff.
 
How would you guy quench a unknown metal? I'd say that it is carbon steel! I made a really nice knife and I like it a lot just don't know what type of metal it is.
 
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