ANSWERED: Field/Stone Sharpening 45VN (Para 2)

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campandtravel said:
Should I focus my reply on how this is not taking the question I asked at face value? Or should I focus on what a stupid thing that was to say? You are suggesting that a person go into the woods without the ability to field-maintain his equipment.

Even if you're only going to be in the woods for a couple of weeks that's insane.
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This would be perfect for you, you can pry off your tree bark with the pry tool end and just replace the blade rather than looking for river rocks since you don't wanna carry a sharpening stone.

Also should be extremely lightweight for you 20 miles per day walking.
 
DeadboxHero said:
This would be perfect for you, you can pry off your tree bark with the pry tool end and just replace the blade rather than looking for river rocks since you don't wanna carry a sharpening stone.
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Wow you haven't read any of my requirements.

I *will* be using a river stone, didn't say that was something to avoid.

This pry bar would suck at pulling off bark because it wouldn't get "in there" like it would have to.

The point is a point, not a knife so it won't slice a mushroom, dig a hole, cut off callouses, etc.

Why is it so hard to just stick to the actual question being asked?
 
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campandtravel said:
Wow you haven't read any of my requirements.

I *will* be using a river stone, didn't say that was something to avoid.

This pry bar would suck at pulling off bark because it wouldn't get "in there" like it would have to.

The point is a point, not a knife so it won't slice a mushroom, dig a hole, cut off callouses, etc.

Why is it so hard to just stick to the actual question being asked?
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A) The guy you're talking to sport has forgotten more about sharpening knives than you'll ever know.

B) A pry bar would do an excellent job of peeling bark.

C) No one is sticking to your question as written because for lack of a better word the premise is laughable.

D) I actually do have a bunch of better words but I can't use them here; ce la vie.
 
Spyderco is known for heat treating their steel at higher HT levels than other makers. That’s a good thing for edge retention, but not good for toughness.
Look at BD1N or CPM SPY27. Don’t know if SPY27 is offered in the PM2. Even at a higher HT, they will be tougher than other steels. I don’t have any Spyderco’s in S35VN, but from what I’ve read, S45VN isn’t as tough as S35VN. I haven’t used my PM2 in S45VN to know just how tough it is. So far, I haven’t seen any chipping or other damage to the edge.
 
Danke42 said:
A) The guy you're talking to sport has forgotten more about sharpening knives than you'll ever know.
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Man you people have trouble paying attention. Who cares how much experience he has sharpening blades? All that matters *in this thread* is whether he has experience sharpening 45VN on a river stone, because that's what I asked about. Focus, man, focus.

Danke42 said:
B) A pry bar would do an excellent job of peeling bark.
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Nope. And that's based on actual experience, not your keyboard warrior "expertise."

Danke42 said:
C) No one is sticking to your question as written because for lack of a better word the premise is laughable.
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Well that's just a dumb thing to say but if you don't have an answer to the premise, here's an idea: *don't respond to the thread*. Did you really think I'd want your opinion on other subjects? I came here with one question, don't think for a second I care what else you have going on in your head. Would you dare go up to someone in person and just share your opinion? Hopefully not (but maybe you're just a blowhard, who knows?)

Danke42 said:
D) I actually do have a bunch of better words but I can't use them here; ce la vie.
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Is that supposed to hurt my feelings? Scare me? What? What could be your goal of posting in a thread that I - not you - started, that you've said you don't like the premise of, to tell me things that no one asked you about, and then whine when I tell you you're off topic --- and then tell me you have choice words for me. What's the plan here fella?
 
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Ajack60 said:
That’s a good thing for edge retention
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Thanks for that. Basically I think the important part of what you said is that the edge retention is high (therefore ease of sharpening is low?) So yeah, not 45VN for me. Actually I've already been talked out of the PM2. Just not designed for anything I need it for, probably not in any steel. The tip sounds like it's too weak for my needs.
 
353 said:
By that I mean a thicker bladestock, all the way to the tip. Or at least thicker towards the tip than a PM2.
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Looks like the Pacific Salt is a *narrower* blade than the PM2. .11 vs .14? Or do I have it wrong?

Also, what do you lose if you don't have liners (other than ounces, which sounds great)
 
campandtravel said:
Thanks for that. Basically I think the important part of what you said is that the edge retention is high (therefore ease of sharpening is low?) So yeah, not 45VN for me. Actually I've already been talked out of the PM2. Just not designed for anything I need it for, probably not in any steel. The tip sounds like it's too weak for my needs.
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For stainless steel yes, harder to sharpen. Tool steels are better suited for primitive sharpening. That will lead to faster rust/patina. For me, K390 and Cru Wear checks all the boxes. The tip of the PM2 is fine with tool steels, it will allow more lateral stress than stainless
 
gruntmedik said:
Ok, Magyver, maybe you should just make your blade with your ever present rocks, then you won't have to carry anything.

YOU are the one that came here asking advice.
YOU are the one that got defensive and confrontational.
YOU are the one with the confused definition of whine.

Hope you find the blade you're looking for.
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:rolleyes:
 
campandtravel said:
I'm considering buying a Spyderco Para 2 as my one blade to carry when I'm backpacking. (Currently carry a small tommy and an Opinel 8, want to lighten the load.)

The Para 2 can definitely handle the tasks I have in mind, not worried there. But I don't know if 45VN steel can be sharpened in the field.

There is no way I'm adding weight, carrying something else to sharpen my tools. I posted something about field sharpening a few years ago and got lots of comments from weekend warriors and hunters who doubtfully hike more than 20 miles in a week. I do that in a day. Ounces matter. I don't even have a handle on my toothbrush and I carry baking soda because the liquid in toothpaste weighs too much. Get me?

So I'll be sharpening this thing on a nice river stone when I stop for the day. I don't mind sharpening every night, I consider that normal.

Seems like the Para 2 is really well made, but it's made for the kind of knife hobbyists who prefer "edge retention." So can the Para 2 do what I want? Can I beat the **** out of it and then sharpen it with a stone I find in the field?

Oh, and please none of this "it will last until you're home." I don't have a ****ing home. I'm in the field. Get me?
Thanks.
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If you're thinking lightweight, I would go with a Spyderco Manix 2 lightweight. It comes in different types of steel. I have the CPM SPY27 steel blade, and I love it. It's lighter than the PM2 and is an outstanding performer.
 
Ajack60 said:
The tip of the PM2 is fine with tool steels
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And you're including Cruwear in this category (Tool Steels that the PM2 tip will be sturdy with?)

I agree that Cruwear sounds kind of superb. And I think it doesn't even stain/rust much from what I read. Kind of magic stuff.
 
campandtravel said:
Do you know what kind of lock it has? Because that's what attracted me to the PM2. Also I held a PM2 and it felt good in my hand.
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High-Strength Lock - The Ball Bearing Lock features a patented compressive lock that wedges a ball bearing between a fixed anvil and the blade tang. The mechanism also serves as a detent to hold the blade in the closed position.
 
campandtravel said:
Well now wait, because D2 sucks for primitive sharpening. I gave away a D2 knife I had a while ago exactly because I couldn't keep it sharp in the field.
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I would stay away from D2 as well, especially if you're in the field all the time. D2 will rust just from the sweat after a day's hike.
 
campandtravel said:
Well now wait, because D2 sucks for primitive sharpening. I gave away a D2 knife I had a while ago exactly because I couldn't keep it sharp in the field.
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I wouldn't count D2 as a tool steel, it's so close to stainless that it makes one wonder. Personally, D2 gives me the biggest fit sharpening than any other steel I've got and that's with good stones.
 
Lasador said:
High-Strength Lock - The Ball Bearing Lock features a patented compressive lock that wedges a ball bearing between a fixed anvil and the blade tang. The mechanism also serves as a detent to hold the blade in the closed position.
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Nice! How strong is the tip? Could I peel off bark with it? Like plunge the tip into a dead tree and strip off a big hunk of bark?
 
Lasador said:
If you're thinking lightweight, I would go with a Spyderco Manix 2 lightweight. It comes in different types of steel. I have the CPM SPY27 steel blade, and I love it. It's lighter than the PM2 and is an outstanding performer.
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Looks like they're sold out everywhere except in 30V and M390. Do they make this in Cruwear?

Whoah, found it. In Cruwear it's $400!
 
C campandtravel So with the advice you got so far, what have you concluded with? What are you leaning towards now with the information you got from the forum. Any closer to a purchase?
 
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