Any Bevel Advice?

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kwells14

Joined
Mar 2, 2015
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i am still pretty new at making knives. I have an overall process with some cheap tools that works just fine for me. The one thing I can't seem to get figured out is the bevel making process. I can never seem to get a smooth even line, it's usually a little shaky. Like I said I have pretty cheap setup. I typically only use a $20 belt sander from Harbor Freight to do my bevels, but I have seen people do solid bevels using the same machine. I have attempted to make jigs. But I don't like the bevels that are made. The bevels usually differ slightly from one side of the knife to the other. Also I don't like the way jig bevels can't follow the shape of the knife, it's aways a perfectly straight line which in my opinion ruins the flow of a beautiful knife. Is it really just tons of freehand practicing, or is there a trick I'm missing? I have ruined over a dozen knives trying new bevel making methods. I don't mind the learning curve. I know it's not an easy process, but I'm stumped. I can't seem to find somthing that works. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
I'm pretty green as well, but I use a Gough style filing jig. I have sanders and grinders, but I prefer to do it by hand to get the consistancy. You can look it up on you tube on how to make one
 
When you refer to the perfectly straight line, are you referring to the grind line or plunge? If you want to change the grind line angle then you have to change the angle you hold the knife at. It's also about applying the same pressure , and time on the grinder, from tip to plunge.
 
Also I am looking to upgrade my belt sander. I'm looking for somthing within the $300 range. If anyone has any recommendations within that price that would be awesome
 
For that price just build one. It won't be variable speed, but i t will be better than your 1x30 . Are you flat or hollow grinding?
 
Rookie25 said:
For that price just build one. It won't be variable speed, but i t will be better than your 1x30 . Are you flat or hollow grinding?
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Is this actually possible? Everything I've read about building your own grinder runs three times that. If there is an actual way to build a 2 X 72 grinder (not variable speed) for $300, PLEASE post the link. (Or are you talking about just the frame and not the motor or wheels?) This would be much appreciated.
 
It's mostly hand eye coordination. I free hand everything but it took some time working with jigs first. Just because you use a jig doesn't mean that the bevels will be perfect. You are still the one controlling the motion.
 
It would be fairly difficult to build one for less than $500-$600. Not saying impossible..........but difficult! I am just finishing my GIB 2x72 and my ran about $1100-$1200 but I bought everything brand new and add a KBAC 27D for that price. If you were fairly mechanical, resourceful at repurposing (like old treadmills and old motors), and had access to a few things like a decent lathe you could do the $300-$500 grinder.

jay
 
I paid 60 for a used 1hp motor on Craigslist. Drive wheel 60 or so off eBay. Built a flat platen for 20 or so( 2 bearings and a piece of angle and a piece of pyro glass). Tensioner wheel was 20 off eBay. Metal is 75 or so. Miscellaneous 50-75. If you only have a budget of 300 or so then you're going to have to build it and be resourceful. I'm not sure how to post links but look around. It's not going to be a KMG but will be a fine grinder for around 300.
 
A few thoughts...

The platen on the HF 1x30 IMHO really held me back. The platen is not very stiff or flat. It's also not very tall, which can be limiting if you're working with the table attached. If you can get a piece of tile cut (or just buy a ceramic glass platen) and somehow attached that may be worth doing.

The best advice I think is to find a 2x42 before you invest too much in 1x30 belts. Since switching to a 2x42 I've been a lot happier with my hand grinding. The grinding goes at least twice as fast also since the belt is twice as wide.
 
Rancho5 said:
Is this actually possible? Everything I've read about building your own grinder runs three times that. If there is an actual way to build a 2 X 72 grinder (not variable speed) for $300, PLEASE post the link. (Or are you talking about just the frame and not the motor or wheels?) This would be much appreciated.
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I've got about $500 in my 2X72 grinder including the 2hp 3ph motor and VFD drive. read about it here:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1234634-New-Grinder-for-me
 
Stay away from Harbor Freight machines. They are cheap junk plain and simple. If you want a decent belt grinder without having to spend a lot of money, look into the Kalamazoo 2x48 vertical belt grinder (model 2FSM ). It is a good, solid machine with a great Baldor motor and they can be had bran new for under $450. When you upgrade later to a 2x72 grinder, that 2x48 will still be useful for other tasks. Same can be said for the Grizzly knifemaker grinder just stay away from ANYTHING that has a power cord attached to it when it comes to Harbor Freight.....you'll be glad you did in the long run.
 
steelerfan88 said:
Stay away from Harbor Freight machines. They are cheap junk plain and simple. If you want a decent belt grinder without having to spend a lot of money, look into the Kalamazoo 2x48 vertical belt grinder (model 2FSM ).
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I think this isn't very helpful advice for newbies just starting out. The $40 HF 1x30 is the shortest path to a knife for a lot of people feeling their way into knife making. I wouldn't say it's "junk", it's got enough power and works fine for grinding out small knives. With quality belts it works ok for finishing work too. To say not to buy that and spend $450 instead doesn't make any sense to me, who actually does that? I'd rather save that money for a 2x27.

I say use the 1x30, get your feet wet, and hand it down to someone later when you outgrow it (even if that's in a couple months).
 
I'm not saying I'm an expert, but I've done my share of shreading up perfectly good blanks into chisel ground letter openers.:o So here's my 2 cents worth:

1. depending on your blade material, it may be better to grind the primary bevel post heat treat (it goes slower, but is more forgiving).
2. BELTS, BELTS, BELTS - I started with cheap Aluminum Oxide belts for wood, but that was half my issue. I switched to Norton Blaze and like belts, and the grinding was much better (straighter lines and all).
3. Mark 2 lines on the blank, one for the center, and one for the point near the spine where you want you primary bevel grind line to end. I find that paying attention to the second line helps me much more.
 
In my opinion, practice is of more importance than equipment. I believe one would be better off purchasing $100-400 worth of materials to practice with and using what they have rather than purchasing another grinder. Equipment upgrades can come later to improve efficiency.

I'm not sure what your technique is, but I find locking one's elbows to the side and using the body (instead of elbows ) to control the movements helps to a significant degree.
 
Steel- $free
1hp 3ph leeson-$75
Automation direct vfd- $100
Aluminum wheels- $100
Platen plate/glass- $40
Shoulder bolts and gas strut- $40
Spray paint and misc stuff-$ 45?
All in all I've got about $400 into my eerf and I don't think it could be done cheaper with variable speed. Yes, my motor and vfd are not sealed, so they are cheaper than you'd expect for a grinder application. Nothing improved my knifemaking more than this grinder. Now that I've built this one, there would be things I'll do differently the next time around. Those different things will end up costing me less money on the project. I.e. Weld most of it instead of bolting things.
 
zhyla said:
I think this isn't very helpful advice for newbies just starting out. The $40 HF 1x30 is the shortest path to a knife for a lot of people feeling their way into knife making. I wouldn't say it's "junk", it's got enough power and works fine for grinding out small knives. With quality belts it works ok for finishing work too. To say not to buy that and spend $450 instead doesn't make any sense to me, who actually does that? I'd rather save that money for a 2x27.

I say use the 1x30, get your feet wet, and hand it down to someone later when you outgrow it (even if that's in a couple months).
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It's actually the best advice for anyone starting out. Why direct someone to inferior equipment ? HB machines are pure junk. Anyone with half a brain and knows what good equipment is can figure that out just by looking at one.....NOT trying to sound negative but it is the truth. I know not everyone can afford the nicer machines but it is what it is like it or not. There is a reason why their tools are so ridiculously low cost. The parts are sub-standard and the fit and finish is horrible. I new person is much better off waiting a little longer and save for a nicer machine.
 
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