Any hope of salvaging or start over?

awp101

awp101

Joined
Nov 15, 2008
Messages
44
I picked this up a couple of years ago and finally got started last year on it as my first project. Compact skinner kit from one of the suppliers with Dymondwood scales.

I traced the outline of the tang onto the scale material and cut it out thinking I left enough material for shaping. Top and bottom I did. Front to back...not so much.:rolleyes:

Compact_skinner_2.jpg

Compact_skinner_3.jpg


Got it back out after reading various threads here and thought I'd ask if the scales could be salvaged or if I just need to start over. I had no idea what profile I should use on the front of the scales, I was thinking something rounded but I don't think there's enough material. I saw another knife somewhere that the maker cut the front on a downward slant. I still don't think there's enough material but thought I'd ask for suggestions.

Thanks!:thumbup:
 
are you thinking that the scales are too short from butt towards blade? If so, the answer is relatively simple, a spacer!!!

Ether just behind the guard / bolster, or making a diagonal cut through the middle of the scales, a spacer of a contrasting but pretty material will "elongate" the handle material section, and if you carry it off well, it looke both like you meant it that way the whole time, and that you're quite good!

People like some pretty weird stuff for this, and sometimes some pretty hard to work with stuff, but there's no reason that a nice blonde maple or something else wouldn't look great cutting a diagonal stripe across the handle.
 
Ahhhhhh! The simple answer always eludes me...:D

So I could cut, add enough spacer material to bring the front of the handle to the point of the choil (I hope I'm using that term corectly) and shape the front around that point.

What about securing the spacer to the existing scale? It looks like it would fit right where the pin holes are in the middle so attaching to the tang wouldn't be (much) of an issue. What about pins made from brass stock to hold the two ends to the spacer?

Thanks!
 
brass pins could do the trick.

Also, if you dovetail the joints between the spacer and rest of the scales, so that the spacer is widest at the tang, and thinnest at the outer surface, then it is physically "locked" into place by the scales. Also, when doing multi piece handle scales, epoxy is your friend. I'm sure it's possible to get it all lined up and tight without, but from a beginners perspective, there is no shame in using a little "universal bonding agent" to help make sure everything stays the way you intended it to. I know several full time pro's who certainly have the skill to do without epoxy, but still use it as added insurance.

But yeah, pins and dovetailed fitting.

The most critical part of this idea is the very careful and painstaking fitting of the peices very precisely so they meet up without gaps. A neat trick to help this is you can use some basic construction paper as a spacer between the wood types. On final assembly (and not before) coat the construction paper in superglue, which will harden it up and make it into a nice, durable material once it's all cured. The construction paper will press form a bit between peices and help a teeny bit in covering less than perfect fitting between various bits.

And if it contrasts nicely with the colors you're using, it too can seem like you meant it that way all along.
 
Alternatively, a nickel silver bolster would set this knife off very nively and would solve your problem just as neatly.
 
Another tip if you're going to add a spacer is to use a liner material on the back just to help tie things together.

Measure 498708 times, cut once. Why do you think I make a lot of small knives? I have all this small handle material :p
 
Dan Zawacki said:
Alternatively, a nickel silver bolster would set this knife off very nively and would solve your problem just as neatly.
Click to expand...

I found this with a quick search but it looks like I would have to shape it to match what I already have to work with?
BO482X_550.jpg


Mr Leavitt, why do I see many small knives in my future?:D
 
Yes, you'd have to shape it to match. If that one doesn't work, a small bar of nickel silver stock and a small bit of nickel silver pin stock shouldn't be too expensive.

Nickel Silver is, if I recall correctly, mostly made of copper, and is relatively soft stuff. You can use files, a bench grinder, a dremel, or just about anything to shape the stuff. Sandpaper with a solid backer in progressibe grits will polish it right up nice n perrty too
 
Will Leavitt said:
Because you forget to measure again like I forget to measure again? :p
Click to expand...
Well I measure, cut, measure again and find it's still too short...:eek:

Did some brainstorming while grocery shopping yesterday (it's better than thinking about the prices....) and remembered I bought some antler last year. I was told it's Axis Deer but I don't know.

My main concern right now is how bright (almost white) it is compared to the wood. I like a darker grey, like this(which is why I purchased most of these):
knives3.jpg



Dan, thanks for the shaping info. Right now I'm limited to files of unknown origin, sandpaper, a Dremel and a Ryobi belt sander.
 
Last edited:
Dan Zawacki said:
are you thinking that the scales are too short from butt towards blade? If so, the answer is relatively simple, a spacer!!!

Ether just behind the guard / bolster, or making a diagonal cut through the middle of the scales, a spacer of a contrasting but pretty material will "elongate" the handle material section, and if you carry it off well, it looke both like you meant it that way the whole time, and that you're quite good!

.
Click to expand...

Great advice in my opinion, way to take a mess-up and end up greatly improving the quality of your piece.
 
I may end up having to source another set of scales anyway. Fooling around with everything tonight, I may not have enough top to bottom either, at least on the front.

I am certainly going to keep the suggestions in mind as I fiddle with it more.

Thanks!:thumbup:
 
If you wanted to, you could make do with what you have. Since the front pin will be so close to the front of the scale, avoid any sloping down towards the knife in the front. Rather, thin your scales down and round off the front of the scale. The scale doesn't have to come all the way to the finger guard. For instance:

IMG_0566.jpg


Just a thought. Of course, adding a spacer is another great option.

--nathan
 
You only have 3 options the first is make sure your spelling is correct. Second make a spacer and splice it in . Third is to start over. The bolster isnt a option the steel is hardened and would be to difficult to drill now .Hope my spelling is correct and that ive been a little help.
 
hellgap said:
You only have 3 options the first is make sure your spelling is correct. Second make a spacer and splice it in . Third is to start over. The bolster isnt a option the steel is hardened and would be to difficult to drill now .Hope my spelling is correct and that ive been a little help.
Click to expand...

OK, I'll bite...what did I spell incorrectly?:D
 
awp101 said:
I may end up having to source another set of scales anyway. Fooling around with everything tonight, I may not have enough top to bottom either, at least on the front.

I am certainly going to keep the suggestions in mind as I fiddle with it more.

Thanks!:thumbup:
Click to expand...

I guess you can fiddle with this forever, but the scales are not going to change. A lot of effort here for a cheap kit blade.

Get a new set of scales. Yea, source them.

Good luck,

AL P

www.polkowskiknives.com
 
awp101 said:
Compact_skinner_2.jpg

Compact_skinner_3.jpg
Click to expand...


Dude, what did you cut that with, a mouse? ;)

Seriously though, I'd go with the last suggestion of just rounding the scales off and leaving some empty space at the front. But, I'm just a newbie who hasn't built a single knife yet.
 
awp101 im joking but some people here think were in school . I myself never liked school hated english and thank god ive been done school for 30 years. My spelling sucks even though I do my best and if that isnt good enough they can go F K themselves, this is a knife forum . By the way i started doing this hobby a few months ago and have aquired about 200 sets of knife scales since.Go to a local cabinet shop take a dozen donuts and some coffee for the boys and ask if they have any scraps for knives.
 
Dymondwood costs like $3... I say scrap it.

Also, drill your holes BEFORE you shape the scales AT ALL. :)
 
hellgap said:
Go to a local cabinet shop take a dozen donuts and some coffee for the boys and ask if they have any scraps for knives.
Click to expand...

That's a great idea. I once called a local cabinet-makers' supply shop, explained what I do, and asked if they sold small cut-offs of figured wood. The owner emailed me back a couple days later and said it wasn't worth his time to price it - "just come down with a cardboard box on Friday before the garbage truck comes in and pick through the scrap bin." I really need to call back and take him up on that...

On the other hand, like Nick said, dymondwood and micarta are cheap. Buy by the slab, not by sets of scales, cut it yourself and it's practically free. (OK not free, but definitely affordable). A hacksaw will work.

I guess the point is, there's diminishing returns at some point when you try to salvage every little "oops". If you had started over, you'd be done by now ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top