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Any hunters out there? Or makers for hunters?

hlee, i've done a couple of deer using "method 1". It really is a slick way to go as long as you're not intending to do any dragging to get the parts out to the truck or ATV and as long as you don't want the heart or liver for supper sliced thinly, lightly stir fried with some onions from the garden !
If you amputate the legs at the joint midway up the leg, you don't need a saw. Flex the joint and then feel the joint space with your finger and cut through the hide and joint capsule there(this is where a blade can dull as it's the only manuver where you have to cut through some hair). Then twist the lower part to open up the joint and cut the ligaments in the center of the joint.
This is a good thread for those just getting into hunting. Just remember: despite what your more seasoned buddies might say, there is no need to split the sternum but if you really want to, use a packable folding bone saw. Use the correct tool for the job.
And i missed a nice whitetail today. arrow hit his brow tine, i was trying for a neck shot as he was quartered towards me. i have a Menefee Butcher knife to pick up tomorrow so i was trying to get a deer for my knife.
roland
 
Ed Caffrey said:
I'm not trying to be a smart *## here, but am I the only one who doesn't have to chop or saw through a breast bone or pelvis? When opening up just about any big game animal, and you get to the base of the breast bone, you just move over an inch or two (where the ribs attach to the breast bone), and cut through the cartilage....boomp, boomp, boomp...
Click to expand...


You're not the only one I mentioned how I do it on page one. Basically the same as you. Only on deer I don't even bother with the pelvis. I just reach back as far as I can and cut. Never had a problem doing this and having it affecting any meat.
 
That is one very lucky buck. Antlers: the all around offensive/defensive tool. Using them as a shield, clever deer.

I'm loving Dr. Procter's medical jargon juxtaposed to Jim's equally accurate but somewhat less technical "butt hole" description. LOL... You guys crack me up.


I usually hunt in the woods on my mother's farm. There are trails in the wood where one can get an ATV back to pickup a deer, and a tractor to hoist it - so I never have to dress a deer on the ground. I think this effects my technique and makes my approach a bit different than it would be otherwise.
 
Where I hunt there are so many deer we have a rule that you never hunt or shoot one on the down hill side of the road. This rule can only be broken by a true monster buck. I could fill my buck tag with an open kitchen window and a 22 if I wanted. Elk are a different story as they are often harder to find, although we did get one 23 paces from the truck once. We still refer to him as the perfect elk. My brother and I were sitting there just before dark discussing which road to drive down the mountain on when this bull walks out into the middle of the logging road. Perfect. The older I get the more I know I can get what I want by sitting on my butt in the right place rather than tromping all over the place. This includes elk. Just need to draw a tag for the right area.
 
I live in the valley between the Purcell and Selkirk mountain ranges. An animal below where you can get to with a truck or ATV: "hey look, there's a deer" (or elk). But above you: "hey look, there's some venison".
About half of the animals i've ever shot have been within 100 yards of my house. Not my fault though. Often i've returned home from a day in the bush or a multiday hunt in the back country, and, having seen nothing legal to shoot, find a nice buck or bull on the lawn near the house. Bang ! successful hunt and i don't have to pack out.
Took these pics 2 mornings ago from my front deck, but the elk are not that close. Yesterday they were within 10 yards.

customs001-37.jpg


note the elk fencing around a young sugar maple. all the deciduous trees i plant need to be fenced off for at least 20 years until the bark gets really woody or the elk will kill them.

customs004-32.jpg


roland
 
ATS-34 heat treated w/ cryo to HRC 61 would be a good choice.

S35V is an upgrade.

3V is you want to pound on the knife.

(Most importantly, edge geometry and heat treat should be tailored to the task).
 
The Knife I made for this customer was differentially tempered 1095.

Andy,
I just wanted to drop you a note. I purchased one of your knives a few months
ago. I had an opportunity to use it this September on a moose that I harvested
during hunting season here in Alaska. Moose are very large and are a true test
of a knife. Usually it takes several knives or at least sharpening the knife that
you are using several times. Your knife performed flawlessly and did not need to
be sharpened. So I just wanted to tell you thank you for making a fantastic knife.
Hopefully this is just the first of many moose that I get to use your knife on.

Ken Mayfield
Fairbanks Alaska
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