any reasons not to sharpen knives using sandpaper?

Back to the OP's original question, one drawback I've found is that sandpapers are slow when it comes to bevel-setting the "supersteels." Stones like DMT XXC and a coarse waterstone for quickly removing those scratches, is definitely much faster for bevel-setting, and can get the same convex bevel. I haven't tried the coarse diamond sandpapers but they are expensive.
 
I keep reading on other threads that it takes forever and a day to reprofile an edge. Don't all knives end up having to be reprofiled when using the Sharpmaker, unless of course, the inclusive stock factory angle of ____ knife is the same as the Sharpmaker?

I guess my point is I read conflicting advice. I read people saying how hard it is to reprofile on the Sharpmaker. Then I read how awesome the Sharpmaker is.

I guess another concern is how easy it is to get the hang of sharpening, especially a recurve. I intend to practice on my kitchen knives, but don't know how that will transfer over to my folders since my kitchen cutlery doesn't have recurves (what kitchen knife does?).
 
Is the sandpaper here the waterproof wet and dry sandpaper, or will any ol' sandpaper do? I've got loads of it at local hardware stores, but can't find anyone selling wet and dry over 600 grit.
 
harkamus, yes you do get conflicting advice.
The internet makes everyone with an opinion an expert.
"Forever" for one expert may be a couple hours for another.

Wong, look in automotive shops for wet dry paper in high grits.

What works for me using the mousepad and sandpaper aka The Hoodoo Hone...
Sharpen with a light touch and high grits.
Re-profile with a firm touch and low grits.
 
The SM is not coarse enough to rebevel (reprofiling is changing the outline of the knife) an edge. It can be done, but it does take a long time. The SM is for touch ups and for final honing after using coarser grits. I start with a coarse stone (250x water stone or coarse Norton India stone, 90x) then go to a medium stone, a 1000x water stone or the corners of the brown triangles, then progress normally through the SM grits. For touch ups, I use the 4 steps for the SM. You can go a long time between trips to the coarse stone by using a microbevel. I set my coarse stone at less than 20 degrees per side, between 15 and 17 usually, then can use the SM to resharpen the microbevel of my pocket knives for months, depending on use. I rebeveled a Kershaw in CPM S60V with wet/dry sandpaper, then used the SM for a microbevel. I never had to go back to the sandpaper for the rest of the time I owned the knife, about a year before I sold it.
 
wongKI said:
Is the sandpaper here the waterproof wet and dry sandpaper, or will any ol' sandpaper do? I've got loads of it at local hardware stores, but can't find anyone selling wet and dry over 600 grit.
Click to expand...

Places that I've seen carry Wet/dray above 600 are.

Sears
WalMart
Most auto store, and you can go to your local bodyshop and ask for some. (my dad owns a body shop, and I got my wet/dry from him.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top