Any talk of a steel change?

Keep in mind CRK has an outstanding warranty and part of that means having parts available if you have a problem. So for every "sprint run" they'd have to purchase and store backup blades in case something happens. I wouldn't expect them to do that. I can see them moving to a new steel one day but it would likely be a wholesale shift like when they went from S30v to S35vn versus runs here's and there.
 
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And what do you need all that toughness for in a folder? Their made for cutting not chopping. Not to mention if you wanted those other options to have more toughness you could run a bit lower Rockwell.
My Large 21 (new HT protocol) is down to one chip in the edge from two. They occurred from accidental contact with metal while at work (cutting plastic film threaded through machinery).

This film has to be cut daily, and I like to carry my Large 21, so chips will be an occurrence for me. But to just say that chips happen due to chopping, or if you chip your edge, you are misusing your knife, is a fallacy.

The knife is meant to cut, and I cut. I do not chop, I am not aggressive nor "sloppy" with my cuts. They just so happen to be in confined spaces with steel in the immediate vicinity. I have come to accept that S35Vn will chip on me, and CruWear will survive. Both will take an equally keen edge, and sharpen as easily as one another.
 
My Large 21 (new HT protocol) is down to one chip in the edge from two. They occurred from accidental contact with metal while at work (cutting plastic film threaded through machinery).

This film has to be cut daily, and I like to carry my Large 21, so chips will be an occurrence for me. But to just say that chips happen due to chopping, or if you chip your edge, you are misusing your knife, is a fallacy.

The knife is meant to cut, and I cut. I do not chop, I am not aggressive nor "sloppy" with my cuts. They just so happen to be in confined spaces with steel in the immediate vicinity. I have come to accept that S35Vn will chip on me, and CruWear will survive. Both will take an equally keen edge, and sharpen as easily as one another.
Could you imagine a crk with cruware? That would be cool. Not gonna happen but would be great.
 
Could you imagine a crk with cruware? That would be cool. Not gonna happen but would be great.
It would be a nice addition, especially since CRK has access to the alloy (both Cruwear and S35Vn both being a Crucible product).
 
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CRK knives don’t even have the steel type stamped on the blade (at least not in a visible spot ;)). The CRK brand has never been about steel choice really, when you think about it.

In my opinion, the use of S35VN is completely to do with manufacturing a highly refined product, with close tolerances. I believe the move from S30V to S35VN was never about improving edge retention or durability of the blade, it was a move to improve manufacturing, and finishing of the final product. The steel itself is sold as having improved machinabilty by Crucible.

People expect perfectly manufactured knives from CRK, and S35VN helps them do that at a reasonable price point, and with pretty good edge retention and blade durability to boot. If they were to change their process to accept new or different steels ad hoc, they would likely have to change/calibrate many of their manufacturing processes to accommodate the properties of the new material. That would either drive quality down, or price up.

In my mind they’ve decided to be a company that makes consistently great pocket knives, and have left the game of chasing the whims of the “steel snobs” to Spyderco etc.

If I had my way, I’d like to see two options:

CTS204P (my favourite stainless)
CPM 3V (my favourite blade steel)

However I am also happy with things as they are.
 
For me S35VN is a decent steel. I treat it similar to 1095 on my slipjoints since they both need a strop or touch-up at similar intervals to keep the edge that I prefer. The caveat is that the original edge on my last three CRKs needed to be reprofiled before they really performed well. My small Insingo was >23dps which means my typical few swipes on a Sharpmaker would not even touch the apex. A trip to my Wicked Edge fixed that plus the fact that the S35VN steel even heat treated somewhat softly can hold up to a <20dps bevel very well.

That being said I would pay a premium for an upgraded steel if it were available.
 
plus the fact that the S35VN steel even heat treated somewhat softly

I don't know why this won't go away. It is all over the internet, and everyone quotes it and believes it. Since mid 2013 CRK has finished their folder blades to the same hardness range as Spyderco, yet no one complains about Spyderco's steel being soft. Unless you have a blade that predates this, it is not true. Even at the prior lower range, I have not really noticed a difference between different manufacturers.
 
All I'm saying is S35VN steel is good enough that it could be taken up a few more RH points and still meet the goals while providing a bit more initial edge retention without turning it into a beast to sharpen.
 
Agreed, though I have only heard of one maker who goes above 60, up to 61. Customs to 62. 59-60 is more common.
 
As long as CRK keeps their warranty, can replace parts, and make something better - I’d think everyone would agree on that.

With that being said, I’m perfectly happy with CRK as a whole.

Enjoy the weekend.
 
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Once I learned how to work with the convex edge on the sebenza I've had no problem sharpening at all. S35vn is just fine for me all around. Only steel that gives me hell is my bark river essential with M4. And if CRK did make a steel change well then, I would just have a vintage sebenza I guess haha. Win win
 
Once I learned how to work with the convex edge on the sebenza I've had no problem sharpening at all. S35vn is just fine for me all around. Only steel that gives me hell is my bark river essential with M4. And if CRK did make a steel change well then, I would just have a vintage sebenza I guess haha. Win win

What is your technique for sharpening the convex edge on a Sebenza? I've been using my Sharpmaker at the 20º per side setting (as recommended by CRK) and just can't seem to get it as sharp as I feel it should be. Mine is S35VN with the 59-60 hardness.
 
I find my Lansky sharpener works better on my CRK's. It has a 25 degree setting which is closer to the angle near the tip. If you're only sharpening using the 20 degree setting then you aren't apexing the edge and aren't removing the damaged/deformed part of the cutting edge.

Another option is tilt the blade when using the Sharpmaker. I find it hard to be consistent that way, which is why I use the Lansky. 25 degrees per side sounds steep but my edges are as sharp or sharper than factory at that angle. YMMV.
 
What is your technique for sharpening the convex edge on a Sebenza? I've been using my Sharpmaker at the 20º per side setting (as recommended by CRK) and just can't seem to get it as sharp as I feel it should be. Mine is S35VN with the 59-60 hardness.
I mainly use the ultra fine stones on the sharpmaker. I tilt the knife inwards a few more degrees and give it about 25 very very light strokes per side. I will strop with the black, then green compound if it really needs it. Hope this helps
 
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