Any tips for a first GEC?

JulianHayes said:
I do love the 26 sleeve board whittler. Fountain Pens, a peanut, and so many great gec knives... Looks like it will be a 26 or an 85. Thanks again! And thanks for posting pics, seeing different knives and comparison shots out of promotional perfection is really helpful. Thanks guys!
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A word of caution: the #26 sleeveboards typically have stiff-to-unworkable action straight out of the box tube, especially if someone isn't accustomed to (massively) strong pulls.

I have two #26s, and as much as I admire the pattern I would not recommend them as a first GEC unless you're able to handle one in person. I needed to both work up my finger strength (and tend to my fingernails) and work on the knife (cleaning the joints and opening and closing the blades often) before I could approach either of mine without bracing myself for the struggle ahead.

They've evened out nicely over time, and this is not to say you won't get an openable one off the bat, but I'd hate for you to be disappointed the first time around. The 32nd time either, for that matter, but first things first. :)

~ P.
 
Pertinux is seriously correct on this one.

My No.26 in Primitive Bone is a beautiful knife, interesting stout Clip blade WHEN YOU CAN GET IT OPEN. :eek: I fancy a stout spring, but this and one of my 73s are outlandish. Opening & closing are hazardous, this could put a novice off for life. So they are beauties to look at but frankly disfunctional. Most GECs are perfectly OK but approach some with this fore knowledge.

Regards, Will
 
My 72 Cody suffers from the same stubbornness. It looks really nice but makes my thumb nail hurt. In fact, I left it in quarter position overnight just last night hoping that might loosen the spring.

Again, handle a few knives before you buy and make sure they work for you, both ergonomically and functionally.
 
pertinux said:
A word of caution: the #26 sleeveboards typically have stiff-to-unworkable action straight out of the box tube,
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so glad you posted real world info
apology for suggesting a bear trap based only on wharnie multiblade stag specs
note its the 3" frame
id focus on 3.5" then, longer springs, nicer pull
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...etto-quot-Wharncliffe-Whittler-A-Quick-Review

Rick said:
GECGeppettoComp03.jpg


I forgot to add in my initial comment that the master on the Geppetto has a sunken joint, and while the secondaries are only partially sunken, they're well covered by the master, so there're no exposed sharp edges anywhere to chew up a pocket.

The springs are well tuned on this pattern. The master pull is only a half-point or so firmer than the secondaries, which is nicely done, considering that the big guy rides on both springs compared to one each for the small blades.
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I still would look close at the half congress 62 (but note it might be stainless)
 
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jon_slider said:
so glad you posted real world info
apology for suggesting a bear trap based only on wharnie multiblade stag specs
note its the 3" frame
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It's not just the 3" frame, it's the pin placement on the same. Note the difference in the location of the backspring pin on these two 3" knives:

IMG_5594.jpg~original


Because the blades of the #26 (Tacky Tango) share the same spring, the pin is equidistant from each end, resulting in a tight turn radius and one mother of a pull.

The pin on the #25 is back just far enough to make a measurable difference-- although the secondary blade was a mondo stiff little bugger at first even so.

IMG_3883.jpg~original


(The #25 wharncliffes are among my favorite knives of all time, but unfortunately not currently in production.)

A gratuitous picture of my #26s with a Big Boy #36, or: Swimmin' With The Fishies.

IMG_2818.jpg~original


~ P.
 
You can't go wrong with the 15, 48 jack, or the 85s. Anything Charlie touches is golden IMO.

Regards

Robin
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I've got one of those 73s in Burnt Orange, single-blade. I like the flat bolsters and slimmer approach of this version, great knife all round. Note the jigging going all the way into the bolster, the blade polish on mine was particularly impressive, quasi-crocus...

Regards, Will
 
JulianHayes said:
Any advice is appreciated, really any info you would have liked to have known before you bought your first GEC. I know this is very subjective, but ya'll probably have better taste than me anyways.. thanks for any help.
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I must echo what others have said, "They are habit-forming."

Consider a yearly or monthly budget for knives, then double it. Maybe moonlighting, or a few extra shifts will work for you.

My pick:

519F3277-F515-4079-AE9F-A00C70B088CB_zpszlihql0v.jpg


Less expensive, a real user, friendly in the hand or the pocket.

Or go for a #15 Crown Lifter or Radio Jack for the cool screwdriver/bottle opener.

Have you made a decision, Julian?
 
^^^ Yep - the Bull Nose is a great suggestion. And, because they're less expensive, you might as well get two of 'em (hehehe):

 
The #73 is classic GEC. I'd recommend a GEC #48 as its my favorite but the main blade is a little over 3"... I really like the #33 as pen blade, the #68 works too with a little wider frame. The #66, #85, and recently the #92 are great jacks. Not too many 3 bladed knives suggested... How about a GEC #53 Cuban Stockman or a #66 Calf Roper? The #53 is 4 1/8" long and its longest blade is 3" exact. It has a low riding sheepsfoot and a spey blade too. The #53 is also the 3rd frame introduced by GEC after the #73 and #23. The #66 is 3 1/2" closed with a main blade just over 2 1/2" IIRC but the sheepsfoot blade rides a bit higher.
GEC #53


GEC #66



 
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