Any tips for cleaning up satin finishes after final assembly?

aarongough

aarongough

Joined
Mar 12, 2013
Messages
1,167
So it seems like the workshop has been giving me a kicking recently...

I just did the handle glue ups on a batch of 5 blades today, I normally clean up the epoxy squeeze out near the ricasso using a small toothbrush with some ethanol on it. I did that as usual today but then noticed that the brush must have had some grit in it (even though I washed it) as now there are a bunch of very fine scratches in my satin finish where the handle meets the blade.

The blades are all A2 hand satin finished to 600 grit. Any tips on how to clean this up without putting a bunch of j-hooks in the finish?
 
If you use your sandpaper with some oil, something like NYOIL, the paper will kinda float on a layer of oil until you press down on it. This gives you a little buffer when you set the paper down on the blade. I siggest you test this on something other than a finished blade until you work out the paper/oil combination that works best for you.
Jim Arubuckle ABS JS
 
DAMNENG said:
If you use your sandpaper with some oil, something like NYOIL, the paper will kinda float on a layer of oil until you press down on it. This gives you a little buffer when you set the paper down on the blade. I siggest you test this on something other than a finished blade until you work out the paper/oil combination that works best for you.
Jim Arubuckle ABS JS
Click to expand...

Fascinating idea Jim! I'll have to try that out, thanks!
 
Don't out-think yourself. The best time to clean up epoxy is before it hardens. That's just part of the whole glue-up process.

Yer gonna miss some at one point or another... :grumpy: The easiest way to clean hardened gluey goop off steel without scratching it up is with something harder than the goop, but softer than the steel. I have several little scrapers made of brass rod in various shapes/sizes, and a selection of non-woven "scrubby pads" (3M Scotchbrite and Norton "BearTex" brands).
 
Sorry I can't give a suggestion for the scratches. But I usually use a Q-tip with acetone to clean up glue on the ricasso when it's still wet. This avoids any unwanted scratches.
 
I use a paper towel and acetone to clean up.

Before you panic completely, clean the spot with acetone again. The "scratches" may be streaks of epoxy.

When I have had to touch up a blade with the handle on, I sand with a backing block using 800 grit paper. I make the stroke from the tip toward the handle and bring it against the handle carefully, then reverse the stroke and carry it back to the tip.
 
Another reason to use West System epoxy - it cleans up with denatured alcohol.
And does nothing to effect the knife.
Any squeeze out can be easily wiped off with a paper towel and DNA.
 
Sorry guys, the wires got crossed a bit there...

The issue is not with epoxy clean up, the problem is that I scratched the blade at the ricasso while doing the epoxy clean up.

Didn't miss any epoxy as far as I know, I use West Systems and clean up with alcohol exactly as you guys suggested!
 
shane_o_ca said:
Sorry I can't give a suggestion for the scratches. But I usually use a Q-tip with acetone to clean up glue on the ricasso when it's still wet. This avoids any unwanted scratches.
Click to expand...

Using q-tips is a good idea, hadn't thought of that actually! Makes a lot more sense than what I've been doing as they're disposable and will therefore always be clean!

Thanks mate, will get some for next time.
 
bladsmth said:
I use a paper towel and acetone to clean up.

Before you panic completely, clean the spot with acetone again. The "scratches" may be streaks of epoxy.

When I have had to touch up a blade with the handle on, I sand with a backing block using 800 grit paper. I make the stroke from the tip toward the handle and bring it against the handle carefully, then reverse the stroke and carry it back to the tip.
Click to expand...

Sounds like careful sanding is likely the order of the day. I like the look of satin finishes, but man are they ever a pain to keep clean!

Got any tips on keeping satin finishes perfect while completing the rest of the operations on the blade? I was thinking maybe some kind of removable lacquer or coating on the blade might protect it, but I also don't want to muck about too much...
 
Karl B. Andersen said:
Another reason to use West System epoxy - it cleans up with denatured alcohol.
And does nothing to effect the knife.
Any squeeze out can be easily wiped off with a paper towel and DNA.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I really like West Systems epoxy! I have the 105/205 set with the pumps at the shop, very convenient to work with.

I always found that it started to set too fast when it was left in the pot (even with a small amount) so the other day I tried mixing it in a cooled cup (small amount of ice and water under a disposable cup) seemed to work really well. Stopped it from cooking itself, so I got a lot more pot life from it.
 
aarongough said:
Sounds like careful sanding is likely the order of the day. I like the look of satin finishes, but man are they ever a pain to keep clean!

Got any tips on keeping satin finishes perfect while completing the rest of the operations on the blade? I was thinking maybe some kind of removable lacquer or coating on the blade might protect it, but I also don't want to muck about too much...
Click to expand...

Blue shop paper towel or phone book/newspaper wrapped around the blade and a tight selling of electrical tape.
 
I have an alum. plate that one edge has been ground 45° to a sharp edge. With the flat side up I lay a thin sheet of felt between the plate and the sandpaper and align it with the sharp edge. With a bar of something to hold it all together I clamp it to the edge of the bench.
Tape the top of the finger guard to protect it. Spray your favorite juice on the paper (Windex, WD40. . .). Now angle your blade a little so you contact the blade right at the shoulder and swipe. Swipe straight, and swipe the whole length of the blade. No fish hooks. Nice even satin finish.
 
aarongough said:
Got any tips on keeping satin finishes perfect while completing the rest of the operations on the blade?
Click to expand...

If for one reason or another the blade is going to sit around for a while, applying a little oil and wrapping it with towel and tape like Shaw described works great.

I usually just use blue 3M painter's tape, simply because it's quicker. If you leave it on the steel a long time, it will leave a little residue but acetone cleans it off. Other folks have reported good results with the green tape... I forget the name brand. I'll try that when I run out of what I have on hand.
 
Those fine scratches that show up near the ricasso during clean up drive me bananas! I feel your pain Aaron. Whether it's a bit of epoxy that needs to be removed, or a bit of danish oil from the handle finish, it seems that no matter how careful I am....I get a few scratches in that area. The blue tape does work very well in that situation. There is a blue tape that you guys on this forum turned me onto....3M clean release blue painters tape. Works great. There was an occasion or two (with green tape) where I left it on overnight...or a few nights....and the adhesive in the tape corroded my nice satin finish. Mad doesn't begin to come close!!! Now, regardless of the tape....I take it off if it is going to sit overnight!
 
Karl B. Andersen said:
Another reason to use West System epoxy - it cleans up with denatured alcohol.
And does nothing to effect the knife.
Any squeeze out can be easily wiped off with a paper towel and DNA.
Click to expand...

Thanks I used the tip about the alcohol today after reading your post. Worked nicely.
 
james terrio said:
If for one reason or another the blade is going to sit around for a while, applying a little oil and wrapping it with towel and tape like Shaw described works great.

I usually just use blue 3M painter's tape, simply because it's quicker. If you leave it on the steel a long time, it will leave a little residue but acetone cleans it off. Other folks have reported good results with the green tape... I forget the name brand. I'll try that when I run out of what I have on hand.
Click to expand...

Frogtape. I used some of it last night actually. Once I'm done with the blade finish I wrap that sucker up good because I know I'll screw it up if I don't

Aaron, I know you said the problem wasn't cleaning up the epoxy but the scratches left from after cleaning/brushing. I think I learned here, or from maybe Gavko knife videos, about the Q-tip trick. It really works good with alcohol or acetone. I even pinch the q-tip and pull a little bit of the cotton so it's sticking up off the end of it(then dip it in acetone). That extra cotton sticking out really gets into the area where the handle meets the tang. I also only swipe it one way across and then toss it. I don't go back and forth cause that might smear the epoxy back across the area.
 
james terrio said:
If for one reason or another the blade is going to sit around for a while, applying a little oil and wrapping it with towel and tape like Shaw described works great.

I usually just use blue 3M painter's tape, simply because it's quicker. If you leave it on the steel a long time, it will leave a little residue but acetone cleans it off. Other folks have reported good results with the green tape... I forget the name brand. I'll try that when I run out of what I have on hand.
Click to expand...

Frogtape. I used some of it last night actually. Once I'm done with the blade finish I wrap that sucker up good because I know I'll screw it up if I don't

Aaron, I know you said the problem wasn't cleaning up the epoxy but the scratches left from after cleaning/brushing. I think I learned here, or from maybe Gavko knife videos, about the Q-tip trick. It really works good with alcohol or acetone. I even pinch the q-tip and pull a little bit of the cotton so it's sticking up off the end of it(then dip it in acetone). That extra cotton sticking out really gets into the area where the handle meets the tang. I also only swipe it one way across and then toss it. I don't go back and forth cause that might smear the epoxy back across the area.
 
Aaron,

As a new knifemaker I've done this several times and have been able to "cover my tracks" pretty well. Two things that have helped me avoid the j-hooks are using a small sanding stick and cutting the pieces of paper to the width of the stick. One of my favorite tools for this is a wooden popsicle stick sharpened on one end like a chisel. Make sure to wrap your strip of sandpaper tightly around the chisle end. Keep the stick moving as you start to make contact with the blade, and lift straight up at the end of the sanding stroke. I have also had good luck using the vise to hold the sanding stick and then you have both hands to guide the knife straight forward while starting the contact with the sandpaper.

Take your time and it will come out ok. BTW I have learned so much form your posts in the past, thanks for sharing.

Jeff
 
samuraistuart said:
Those fine scratches that show up near the ricasso during clean up drive me bananas! I feel your pain Aaron. Whether it's a bit of epoxy that needs to be removed, or a bit of danish oil from the handle finish, it seems that no matter how careful I am....I get a few scratches in that area. The blue tape does work very well in that situation. There is a blue tape that you guys on this forum turned me onto....3M clean release blue painters tape. Works great. There was an occasion or two (with green tape) where I left it on overnight...or a few nights....and the adhesive in the tape corroded my nice satin finish. Mad doesn't begin to come close!!! Now, regardless of the tape....I take it off if it is going to sit overnight!
Click to expand...

Glad yo hear I'm not the only one dealing with these scratches!

creature7 said:
Frogtape. I used some of it last night actually. Once I'm done with the blade finish I wrap that sucker up good because I know I'll screw it up if I don't

Aaron, I know you said the problem wasn't cleaning up the epoxy but the scratches left from after cleaning/brushing. I think I learned here, or from maybe Gavko knife videos, about the Q-tip trick. It really works good with alcohol or acetone. I even pinch the q-tip and pull a little bit of the cotton so it's sticking up off the end of it(then dip it in acetone). That extra cotton sticking out really gets into the area where the handle meets the tang. I also only swipe it one way across and then toss it. I don't go back and forth cause that might smear the epoxy back across the area.
Click to expand...

The q-tip is a good tip, not sure why I hadn't thought of that! Funny how many things from the bathroom/kitchen end up being useful in the workshop.

Iwannashoot said:
Aaron,

As a new knifemaker I've done this several times and have been able to "cover my tracks" pretty well. Two things that have helped me avoid the j-hooks are using a small sanding stick and cutting the pieces of paper to the width of the stick. One of my favorite tools for this is a wooden popsicle stick sharpened on one end like a chisel. Make sure to wrap your strip of sandpaper tightly around the chisle end. Keep the stick moving as you start to make contact with the blade, and lift straight up at the end of the sanding stroke. I have also had good luck using the vise to hold the sanding stick and then you have both hands to guide the knife straight forward while starting the contact with the sandpaper.

Take your time and it will come out ok. BTW I have learned so much form your posts in the past, thanks for sharing.

Jeff
Click to expand...

Thanks Jeff!
 
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