Any tips for cleaning up satin finishes after final assembly?

There are several types of "disposable shop rags" that are much more durable than q-tips or normal paper towels, and nearly lint-free. The two brands I've used with success are "Like Rags" and "Select Wipes".
 
james terrio said:
There are several types of "disposable shop rags" that are much more durable than q-tips or normal paper towels, and nearly lint-free. The two brands I've used with success are "Like Rags" and "Select Wipes".
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I have the rolls of blue shop towels, and also bags of proper rags... I've found that the tacky epoxy tends to pull lint out of even the most lint-free towel. I like the idea of q-tips because you can avoid wiping epoxy back on by simply chucking them after use.

I haven't tried them yet though, so I'll try some and see how they go. That part of the process is definitely a bit of a nail biter!
 
Chris Lambeth said:
Gorirra grue. oo oo ah ah. <--- no really No mixing, easy clean up. Holds great, waterproof.
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I have used the gorilla glue on the last few knives. I like not having to mix, but sitting with q-tips for 2 hours while if foams itself to death is a pain. It seems really strong. :thumbup:
 
Yeah I have also had great success with Q tips and alcohol but as for the scratches sounds like these others guys had some great advice! Good luck hope you get those scratches out.
 
I couldn't glue up without Q-tips!!

If the epoxy is starting to get gummy, I will cut the end off of the Q-tip at and angle. Boom! Scratch free disposable scraper. :thumbup:
 
Willie71 said:
I have used the gorilla glue on the last few knives. I like not having to mix, but sitting with q-tips for 2 hours while if foams itself to death is a pain. It seems really strong. :thumbup:
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There's no need or reason to do that. Just wipe off anything you don't want glued (the ricasso in this case) as soon as you bolt/clamp the scales down, so it's dry. Then go work on something else and let it set overnight. The foam-out peels/cleans/scrapes off very easily once it's done curing... because it doesn't really set up right in open air without water.

I like Gorilla Glue a lot, and the remarkable ease of use and cleanup is the main reason. It seems very strong indeed and I've had no problems with it not being waterproof. But prep is still important; it won't react worth a hoot without moisture on the surfaces and you really have to have everything flat and clamp it tight, or you'll get the ugliest glue-line you can imagine.
 
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Yeah foam is easier to clean than a thin left over bit of glue for sure! Never had a glue line.... lucky! About a two hour set time in my neck and then I can continue. Sure helps with time.
 
If you need to get into tight places I have found nothing better than using those little cut off disks for Dremel tools. They are thin, stiff and can be shaped to suit the need. Just flatten one side, angle them into the ricasso/guard joint and drag out. Great for plunges, too.
 
Rick Marchand said:
If you need to get into tight places I have found nothing better than using those little cut off disks for Dremel tools. They are thin, stiff and can be shaped to suit the need. Just flatten one side, angle them into the ricasso/guard joint and drag out. Great for plunges, too.
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Thanks for the tip Rick, that's a clever idea!
 
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