Any tricks for attatching Ceramic Platens?

colu41 said:
Thanks Karl. I'll look into that. But I'm looking for a quick change type deal. So I can profile a blade without the glass, then start doing bevels with it. I think I am just going to have to build another removable platen. I also really want a wheel attachment! :eek: Just don't know if I want to spend $300 on one.
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I'm not sure why you would want to profile without out the glass platen and then switch for bevels? You can do anything on the glass that you do on the steel...just smoother. And if you could switch the glass on and off, it would likely break from being put on a concave platen from dishing out in use.

The whole purpose of the glass platen is that it stays straight and flat for a very, very long time. I have never worn one out or damaged one in hogging or profiling. I broke a few setting the flat arm down on the floor roughly, but never in use. Mine are just epoxied on with JBWeld. I did weld a 1/8" lip where the bottom edge will sit for safety, but I never had one come loose from the epoxy yet.

BTW, What type of grinder are you using? If it is a smaller 1X30 or 2X48 ( even some budget 2X72s), you may want to change the sheet metal platen for a more robust 1/4" thick one. A glass platen needs a solid and flat base to seat on.
 
You could make another platen for your ceramic. I made mine removable so I could use the slack belt for handle shaping. Not sure how you made your grinder but here are some pics of my setup. It's just 2" mild angle with slotted holes. Don't mind the mess I'm cleaning up today:D
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I'm not sure why you would want to profile without out the glass platen and then switch for bevels? You can do anything on the glass that you do on the steel...just smoother. And if you could switch the glass on and off, it would likely break from being put on a concave platen from dishing out in use.

The whole purpose of the glass platen is that it stays straight and flat for a very, very long time. I have never worn one out or damaged one in hogging or profiling. I broke a few setting the flat arm down on the floor roughly, but never in use. Mine are just epoxied on with JBWeld. I did weld a 1/8" lip where the bottom edge will sit for safety, but I never had one come loose from the epoxy yet.

BTW, What type of grinder are you using? If it is a smaller 1X30 or 2X48 ( even some budget 2X72s), you may want to change the sheet metal platen for a more robust 1/4" thick one. A glass platen needs a solid and flat base to seat on.
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I built a 2x72. And I have a 1/2" platen on it right now. I took it off today and its beat to hell. I flipped it around, tapered the holes again and now its flat again! But, just waiting on the glass to come in. Is welding a piece on the bottom for extra security recommended?
 
Matt R said:
You could make another platen for your ceramic. I made mine removable so I could use the slack belt for handle shaping. Not sure how you made your grinder but here are some pics of my setup. It's just 2" mild angle with slotted holes. Don't mind the mess I'm cleaning up today:D
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What do you have on there for wheels?
 
Water pump bearings. Jockey lot for $ .50 a piece new. I have taken a bunch apart for different size wheels. I'm sure you can order some similar. These are 1" O.D.
 
I have a platen with a ledge for pfundlab, then I just jb weld it. This is my 2nd one, the first one fell off because I didn't properly adhere it. This time I remembered to rough sand the metal platen first then clean down with alcohol.
 
There will be not easy ways to put it and remove it for switching profiling/grinding likewise. The best would be having a spare platen for the harsh profiling (though i don't recommend heavy profiling, not so good for the steel)
I don't have a ceramic plate, but i have an adjustable workrest and i profile in the lower dedicated part of the platen, then i lift a bit the rest to use the upper main portion of the platen for grinding and plunge works. This way i have 2 nicely dressed edges and a flat surface on the main area of the platen, plus a wearing area on the bottom.
 
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I think I made a vid on how to do one on my youtube channel a while back, but it's just as easy to type an explanation:

Most importantly, IMO, you need to put a small ledge on the bottom of your glass platen backer to hold the glass should your epoxy, jb weld, or double sided tape every fail for any reason. Personally, I just drilled and tapped a small piece of flat stock and secured it to the front through the back of my backer with some 1/4x20 bolts. I've seen a few makers just drill and tap the platen backer itself and used some screws or bolts for their ledge. The point is that you want something to support the glass from sliding down in between your wheels and belt and exploding all over the place. Some makers say it's not necessary if you use a good epoxy, jb weld, or whatever, but it really doesn't take much extra time, and once it's done, it's done. Better safe than sorry.

Before you attach/make your ledge, make sure your backer is as flat as you can get it. I used a straight edge to check for any inconsistencies. If you use a piece of mild steel, it's very simple to flatten on a granite surface block, or draw file it flat.

Finally, I make sure to wipe my glass and steel backer down with some acetone and let dry. Hitting it quickly with a torch will take care of any leftover residue, and warm both surfaces slightly so that the tape sticks a little better. Then I put a piece of 3M (or some other well made brand) of 2" wide exterior carpet tape on the glass, and then a piece on the backer. You really don't need two pieces, but in my mind it helps make up for any minor inconsistencies in flatness, having a little extra tape to work with. It also makes sure you get a good bond, as you can push the tape down to each surface thoroughly.

From there, you just stick them together, making sure you're relatively tight against your shelf/ledge, and that's it.

Using the carpet tape, I've NEVER had one start to come loose or fail, and I've gotten my platen hot enough that I didn't want to hold my hand against it for more than a couple seconds. When it comes time to replace, it's very easy: just heat glass with a torch and pry off with a putty knife. Clean the tape off with some acetone and a scraper, and repeat the install process.
 
knife to a gunfight said:
I think I made a vid on how to do one on my youtube channel a while back, but it's just as easy to type an explanation:

Most importantly, IMO, you need to put a small ledge on the bottom of your glass platen backer to hold the glass should your epoxy, jb weld, or double sided tape every fail for any reason. Personally, I just drilled and tapped a small piece of flat stock and secured it to the front through the back of my backer with some 1/4x20 bolts. I've seen a few makers just drill and tap the platen backer itself and used some screws or bolts for their ledge. The point is that you want something to support the glass from sliding down in between your wheels and belt and exploding all over the place. Some makers say it's not necessary if you use a good epoxy, jb weld, or whatever, but it really doesn't take much extra time, and once it's done, it's done. Better safe than sorry.

Before you attach/make your ledge, make sure your backer is as flat as you can get it. I used a straight edge to check for any inconsistencies. If you use a piece of mild steel, it's very simple to flatten on a granite surface block, or draw file it flat.

Finally, I make sure to wipe my glass and steel backer down with some acetone and let dry. Hitting it quickly with a torch will take care of any leftover residue, and warm both surfaces slightly so that the tape sticks a little better. Then I put a piece of 3M (or some other well made brand) of 2" wide exterior carpet tape on the glass, and then a piece on the backer. You really don't need two pieces, but in my mind it helps make up for any minor inconsistencies in flatness, having a little extra tape to work with. It also makes sure you get a good bond, as you can push the tape down to each surface thoroughly.

From there, you just stick them together, making sure you're relatively tight against your shelf/ledge, and that's it.

Using the carpet tape, I've NEVER had one start to come loose or fail, and I've gotten my platen hot enough that I didn't want to hold my hand against it for more than a couple seconds. When it comes time to replace, it's very easy: just heat glass with a torch and pry off with a putty knife. Clean the tape off with some acetone and a scraper, and repeat the install process.
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Thanks KTAG. I guess I never thought of using bolts! Since I'd have to borrow a welder again to put a ledge on there. I'll try this out. Should be getting the glass in this week so, I'll be out looking for that carpet tape.
 
knife to a gunfight said:
I think I made a vid on how to do one on my youtube channel a while back, but it's just as easy to type an explanation:

Most importantly, IMO, you need to put a small ledge on the bottom of your glass platen backer to hold the glass should your epoxy, jb weld, or double sided tape every fail for any reason. Personally, I just drilled and tapped a small piece of flat stock and secured it to the front through the back of my backer with some 1/4x20 bolts. I've seen a few makers just drill and tap the platen backer itself and used some screws or bolts for their ledge. The point is that you want something to support the glass from sliding down in between your wheels and belt and exploding all over the place. Some makers say it's not necessary if you use a good epoxy, jb weld, or whatever, but it really doesn't take much extra time, and once it's done, it's done. Better safe than sorry.

Before you attach/make your ledge, make sure your backer is as flat as you can get it. I used a straight edge to check for any inconsistencies. If you use a piece of mild steel, it's very simple to flatten on a granite surface block, or draw file it flat.

Finally, I make sure to wipe my glass and steel backer down with some acetone and let dry. Hitting it quickly with a torch will take care of any leftover residue, and warm both surfaces slightly so that the tape sticks a little better. Then I put a piece of 3M (or some other well made brand) of 2" wide exterior carpet tape on the glass, and then a piece on the backer. You really don't need two pieces, but in my mind it helps make up for any minor inconsistencies in flatness, having a little extra tape to work with. It also makes sure you get a good bond, as you can push the tape down to each surface thoroughly.

From there, you just stick them together, making sure you're relatively tight against your shelf/ledge, and that's it.

Using the carpet tape, I've NEVER had one start to come loose or fail, and I've gotten my platen hot enough that I didn't want to hold my hand against it for more than a couple seconds. When it comes time to replace, it's very easy: just heat glass with a torch and pry off with a putty knife. Clean the tape off with some acetone and a scraper, and repeat the install process.
Click to expand...

Instead of putting a piece of plate at the bottom for the ceramic to rest on, I drilled two 1/8" holes just above the bottom edge of the platen and epoxied two 1/8" SS pins in the holes and it has worked fine like that for several years with no problems.
 
Walt2 said:
Instead of putting a piece of plate at the bottom for the ceramic to rest on, I drilled two 1/8" holes just above the bottom edge of the platen and epoxied two 1/8" SS pins in the holes and it has worked fine like that for several years with no problems.
Click to expand...

Yeah, same idea as just running a couple of screws through. If I had it to do all over again, I'm not sure that I'd use a plate instead of just pins or screws, but they're all perfectly suitable options.
 
...why are you guys hogging on a platen? Use a contact wheel first, then clean up with a platen. WAY better belt life, cooler grinding, etc, etc...
 
Matthew Gregory said:
Ha! Well, that certainly explains why you're hogging on a platen... :)
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Yes, yes. And until I get a wheel, I will only be doing light profiling on the platen. I busted out the angle grinder today. Can definitely shape a blade with a grinding wheel!
 
I just wanted to do a follow up since I've received my glass platen last week. Attached it with Gorilla Exterior Double Sided tape. (was rated for more weight than the 3M) and epoxy 2 stainless 1/8" pins onto the bottom of the platen.
Anyways, I couldn't be happier. I'm actually sort of PO'd at myself for not getting one sooner. I've never had such clean & straight grinds. Thanks for the help!
 
I always hog on the glass flat platen, mostly the edges of it. This is how I profile all of my blades. It works well for me, but pehaps you've given me reason to try doing so on my 8" wheel . . . it sits idle all of the time since I flat grind my blades.

Also, I've had a ceramic platen come loose while grinding. It was a memorable event that I would not like to repeat. With that said, I purchased a new one, made sure my metal platen was flat and clean, and then re-bonded it with epoxy and it has not budged since. I really should have incorporated a ledge though. The glass is becoming a little worn at now, and I'll probably use the "pin ledge" method next time now that it has been mentioned.
 
logem said:
I always hog on the glass flat platen, mostly the edges of it. This is how I profile all of my blades. It works well for me, but pehaps you've given me reason to try doing so on my 8" wheel . . . it sits idle all of the time since I flat grind my blades.

Also, I've had a ceramic platen come loose while grinding. It was a memorable event that I would not like to repeat. With that said, I purchased a new one, made sure my metal platen was flat and clean, and then re-bonded it with epoxy and it has not budged since. I really should have incorporated a ledge though. The glass is becoming a little worn at now, and I'll probably use the "pin ledge" method next time now that it has been mentioned.
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The ledge is key. Mine came loose and I didn't notice until I went to change belts. Thanks to my "cat like reflexes" I caught it before it hit the ground!:D. I could only imagine it getting sucked up in a belt or flying across the shop.
 
I think you'll be surprised how much more efficient it is.

...I know this is likely obvious, but remember that the results won't be FLAT, and you'll need to clean it up on your platen to get the results truly square, assuming you require that.


logem said:
I always hog on the glass flat platen, mostly the edges of it. This is how I profile all of my blades. It works well for me, but pehaps you've given me reason to try doing so on my 8" wheel . . . it sits idle all of the time since I flat grind my blades.
Click to expand...
 
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