Any way to expand upon my sharpening supplies?

[Any Cal.]

It isn't balsa, but you can buy Maple by the foot in big box home improvement stores, and it comes very flat and nice. 1x2 or 1x3 can be had for like 2-3$ a foot.

 

[cziv]

Speaking of which, can 'stropping grade' balsa be found anywhere else other than HA? I know it's not stupid expensive (especially considering the level to which it is finished -- good size, almost flat, blemish-free surface, magnetic back for a base), but it is pricey for a piece of wood. And I know balsa is balsa, that there is no such thing as 'stropping grade'; I was just referring to the level of finish on the surface. Also, for those who might suggest DIY, I don't have the tools and skill to turn a piece of scrap balsa into something acceptable for stropping on.

My wife told me she's seen balsa wood in craft shops. I was going to try their first and see what they have - if anything.

Like Any Cal. metioned, I think you could spray it on any hardwood or even a man made hard surface and use it. My knives are all sharp now so I'm being lazy but I'll try balsa if I get over there or a peice of wood from the basement, a strip of formica - something kind of hard. Just experiment and have fun doing it.

 

[stitchawl]

Something isn't making sense to me... (as usual.)

Balsa vs Maple or Formica. They are soooo completely different in their hardness as to be comparing apples and giraffes.

Balsa is so soft that you have to be very careful not to dent it with a fingernail when picking it up or mold it by squeezing to hard with your fingers. It's certainly much softer than any leather surface I've ever used for stropping.

Maple can't be marred by a finger, and you certainly can't squeeze a dent in it with your hand alone. Formica... hell, it takes a roofing nail and some pressure to even scratch its surface. Formica is the material that we use for knife handles but have renamed 'micarta.' Certainly quite a bit harder than balsa. Just imagine a balsa handle on your knife...

I think somebody is buying the Emperor's New Clothes!

Stitchawl

 

[cziv]

I've head of guys using compound sprayed on glass?? It was just BS experimentation talk.

Just imagine a balsa handle on your knife...

I'm designing a fire-hardened balsa fixed blade for my new line - the latest offering in prison shanks for 2011. It should be very tacticlol.

 

[stitchawl]

I've head of guys using compound sprayed on glass?? It was just BS experimentation talk.

I tried it myself, but didn't care for the feel. I used liquid chromium oxide but it didn't fix to the glass. Each sweep of the blade cleared too much of it away. I also tried the wax bar compound and had even worse results.

I'm designing a fire-hardened balsa fixed blade for my new line - the latest offering in prison shanks for 2011. It should be very tacticlol.

Is this going to replace the toothbrush handled double razor blade prison shank you were selling?

(Thinking...: Fire-hardened balsa... maybe not, but impregnated balsa might work. Like pressure treated lumber, but using some sort of resin. I really like the color of balsa, but other than model planes and boats I never had much use for it. )


Stitchawl

 

[Noctis3880]

After a half an hour of sharpening a Buck Vantage Pro on my Arashiyama stone, I have to say that I really like it a lot. It "feels" like a much finer grit than my DMT stones(and probably is), but cutting speed is no slouch. I didn't set the initial bevel with a DMT Coarse stone, so the edge isn't exactly uniform from when I monkeyed around with my Sharpmaker. Performance wise, the edge can slightly push cut paper and slice it clean. When looked at in the right light(or in the absence of), the edge actually has a slightly mirror shine.

It's slightly tedious, but no more than on my Edge Pro. If nothing else it feels like sharpening on a larger version of the Edge Pro 600 grit stone, but without as much need to water it.

I'll be looking forward to taking my knife to the Kitayama stone later on:thumbup:.

 

[KarlMaldensNose]

It isn't balsa, but you can buy Maple by the foot in big box home improvement stores, and it comes very flat and nice. 1x2 or 1x3 can be had for like 2-3$ a foot.

Like Any Cal. metioned, I think you could spray it on any hardwood or even a man made hard surface and use it. My knives are all sharp now so I'm being lazy but I'll try balsa if I get over there or a peice of wood from the basement, a strip of formica - something kind of hard. Just experiment and have fun doing it.

Thanks for the ideas, guys, but I really like balsa b/c of the feel and feedback I get from it. Although I really enjoy experimenting and should chec out some different hardwoods.

Balsa is so soft that you have to be very careful not to dent it with a fingernail when picking it up or mold it by squeezing to hard with your fingers. It's certainly much softer than any leather surface I've ever used for stropping.

Stitchawl

Well, softer than most leathers I use, anyway. You're into that ultra-hard horsehide though, ain't ya? But I find balsa's softness to be different than leather's. With balsa there doesn't seem to be as much "localized" (?) give surrounding an edge as there is with (softer) leather, which seems to help prevent rounding over or dubbing the edge. I'm having trouble expaining this, I know.

 

[stitchawl]

Well, softer than most leathers I use, anyway. You're into that ultra-hard horsehide though, ain't ya?

It's not really much harder than the hair side of regular veggie tanned tooling cowhide, just more dense. It just has a different surface feel to it. It's not like MDF by any means. When stropping on it, it feels like ordinary leather except there is more 'grab' to it.

But I find balsa's softness to be different than leather's. With balsa there doesn't seem to be as much "localized" (?) give surrounding an edge as there is with (softer) leather, which seems to help prevent rounding over or dubbing the edge. I'm having trouble expaining this, I know.

That was pretty clear. :thumbup:
I guess the longer wood fibers of the balsa help to support the point of contact between the wood and the edge. That might account for it having less give. It's certainly cheap enough for a couple of experiments. Nothing ventured, nothing gained!

Stitchawl

 

[dsmegst]

I also find I prefer balsa over leather. It's easier to stay consistent with my angles and it had really good feedback. I picked up some slabs from the local hobby shop and glued them onto some flat plywood for support. I think they're perfect for diamond pastes.