Anybody else disappointed with 14C28n

Thanks to everybody who offered their input, suggestions, experience and advice!:thumbup: Sounds like steel may indeed be allergic to me Lol.:D I was really hoping, after my experiences with 13C26 in bead-blast finished blades, that 14C28n was going to change everything, and I'd be able to carry my favorite Kershaws without having to polish and wipe them down on a daily basis. Well, I guess I'm going to have to look at converting all of them to a satin finish, as I really want to carry the darn things!

As far as H-1 goes, I have a bit of it.;) I've never had a problem with any steel with a satin finish, and only three steels now (ATS-34 -only one knife in particular, 13C26, and now 14C28n) with a bead-blast finish have given me problems.

Thank you guys,
3G
 
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my zing got spots almost immediately, just from sitting on top of my desk. almost every bead blasted knife i have had has developed spots, including all my kershaws.

all my satin finish knives are spotless.
 
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my kershaw zing developed soem rust specks a few weeks ago, but it was from me dropping it in the snow, and jsut wiping it down and sticking it back in my ski coat.

when i got home, i wiped the blade wiht some mineral oil and the specks dissapeared = )
 
The bead blast rusts like crazy, it's just too porous. But I just strop them with a scotchbrite pad, for a nice satin finish. Works like a charm.
 
You guys got me all paranoid. I just went through all my bead-blasted knives...nary a spot of rust. :thumbup: :D
 
Don't know much about the newer Sandvik, but all of the Kershaws I've had with 13C26 picked up pinhead sized rust spots.
 
diananike said:
It takes some serious sweating on my bead-blasted knives to get them to rust.
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Same here...I sweat like a hooker in church on Easter Sunday...both my 13C and 14C knives from Kershaw hold up just fine, zero rust.
 
I hate to tell you this, but some people have terrible body chemistry regarding steels. I have a friend who can't touch a gun without leaving a print that turns to rust. It's something about the salt in his fingers. He wears gloves while cleaning his guns and puts on a layer of BreakFree CLP. He also buys all stainless guns, but even that doesn't totally alleviate the problem. Even they rust if he doesn't watch it.

Me, I never have problems with rust. Well, once with a Beretta 70S, but that was a problem with the gun manufacturing itself. Several other owners told me they had a similar problem. My solution was to have the gun hard chromed and polished. Not a problem since. Anyway, as we've grown older, my friend's chemistry still hasn't changed. He looks at anything steel and it begins crusting over.

You may have a similar problem or perhaps not. I find that BreakFree is a great rust inhibitor. Apply it to your knife before you go to bed and wipe it clear the next morning. Unless you have "poison chemistry," you should be fine.

P.S. -- A satin finish won't help a bit. It just will make the knife ugly. A polished surface keeps a thin layer of chromium on the surface. The satin finish has much less protection.
 
I worked with a guy who had acid fingers ,he worked in a bearing factory !!
Actually the problem with pitted stainless steel is most likely to be one of QC. If equipment used on carbon steel [ machining, grinders , polishers, bead blasting etc] is then used on stainless particles of carbon steel will deposit on the stainless. Those particles rust and the rust can continue into the stainless !!
The cure is to use equipment only for stainless steel. There is also a standard "passivation " treatment for stainless steel .This is done with acids and it cleans the stainless of contaminents and builds up the natural oxidation layer on the stainless.
Notify the maker if you have a problem to get the QC people off their butts !!
 
I ckecked my 1 week old Kershaw JYDII 1725ST under a good light and sadly found pin point size rust spots on both sides of the blade and along the spine.

How very disappointing. :(
 
After most of a month of part-time pocket duty, my only Sandvic steel, the new 'Zing', seemed to have odd shaped small specs of brown and black 'in the grooves' - but only seen via an 8X loupe. The brown was likely from cutting cardboard boxes - the black was from Oreos (I like the cookies, not the creme filling!). A wipe with a paper towel removed both - left some white 'fuzz', however.

I can look at blued guns and they gain 'character'. I finally learned to protect my CS fb knives - and most of my CS folders, although I have some small ones with real 'patina'. I have used Buck 420HC and BG-42 blades in mixed environments with great results. My Spyderco Native in S30V has had essentially no care, save an occasional soap & water cleaning, as it has found service in the food area. I will only use polished blades for foods after studying so many edges with that loupe - and thinking about what those 'pores' could store, bacteria and poison-wise - thanks for that heads up.

My 1725CBs, Blurs, etc were fine, too.

Stainz

PS Remember... one man's rust is another man's patina!
 
mete,

I don't think any of Kershaw's domestic equipment touches carbon steels.

3Guardsmen,

Samhain73's solution sounds like a good first step and likely to start your blades on their way to satiny goodness if it doesn' help.
 
Confederate said:
P.S. -- A satin finish won't help a bit. It just will make the knife ugly. A polished surface keeps a thin layer of chromium on the surface. The satin finish has much less protection.
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Huh?:confused: You do realize we're talking about knives with bead-blast finished blades, right? I've never had a knife with a bead-blast finished blade look worse and stain less than a knife with a satin finished blade.;)

Regards,
3G
 
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Well, again, skin salts may be the culprit in may cases and as Mete said, use of carbon steel tools and buffing agents (including steel wool) can spell disaster for your stainless steel blades and parts.

I recall a Rossi .38 Spc. I had. When I took it out of the box, the thumb latch was all rusted, despite the fact that it was supposed to be stainless steel. But after applying some liquid gun blue, the part turned black. I cleaned it with naval jelly and a toothbrush, then blued and oiled it. I then sent Interarms a note asking for a new thumb latch, which they sent—this one stainless.

The Navy conducted tests on blued and stainless guns and they found out something quite fascinating. First, carbon steel will rust and corrode much faster than stainless...well, up to a point, anyway. After spending time in a salt spray environment, the blued steel gun actually slowed its corrosion rate dramatically while the stainless one resisted to a point, then took off and rusted faster than the blued gun.

The conclusion was, the stainless, once corrosion starts, can actually corrode faster in some cases than blued steel. Hot bluing, itself, is nothing more than controlled and polished rust. At some point, the rust becomes an inhibiting factor, while stainless throws everything it has at corrosion at the beginning of the process.

Chances are, if you have rust problems on more than one or two knives, you might have a problem with body chemistry. Polishing paste, for polished surfaces, offers fairly good protection. Oils like Mili-Tec 1 don't offer any rust resistance at all and are only good for lubrication, so check the oils you're using. I don't care for WD-40 at all unless I dunk a good knife, after which spray it with WD-40, clean and oil it.
 
I've carried a leek for years ~5 or 6 now and have used them in rain, sweat, snow, boating, canoe trips and have not paid them any extra attention just let them air dry and have never noticed any type of rust spots or staining. The only visable wear is that I've worn the laser etched logo off the handle but thats it. I've had to replace torsion bar once, no other maintence beside a casual sharpening.
 
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spidyman said:
I've carried a leek for years ~5 or 6 now
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Then you have a knife with 440A, not 14C28n (or 13C26 for that matter either). 440A has much more Chromium than the Sandvik steels mentioned and I haven't had a problem with bead-blasted 440A blades rusting. Thanks anyway.

Regards,
3G
 
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