Anyone familiar with this machine?

D

DantheDJ

Joined
Oct 19, 2016
Messages
48
Hello all, recently I found a truckload full of these things:
https://static.kupindoslike.com/Noz-za-abrihter_slika_O_5787845.jpg
They are knives for this machine, whose name I dont know, we call it "abrihter":
http://i26.tinypic.com/34j6il2.jpg
https://static.kupindoslike.com/abrihter_slika_O_5902337.jpg

Here is the head where the blades are inserted:
http://img.goglasi.com/img/81222317

Ive been told these blades make great knives, so my question is:
Is this true?

Has anyone tried them?

And mainly, what type of steel it is, if you know the exact name of the type, that would be of immense help :D

Btw, I havent checked them thoroughly, but there are different lengths, widths and thicknesses in that wonderbox. So Im safe in the long run :rolleyes:

Im currently making a knife from one of them, had to anneal it, hopefully Ill HT it tomorrow :S
And while we are at annealing blades, how to keep them from bending or slightly twisting during the cooling process, any tips? :confused:

Also, it seems I dont own a drill bit that can go through it in ANNEALED STATE!!
Are there some heavy duty, unconventional but cheap bits that can grind through, or do I need a stronger drill? :)

Well, thats all the questions I can think of right now, I will post some pics when its done, IF its done :eek:
P.S. Anyone know what this guy is doing with the knife to get that finish? :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9drLVaTcLo thanks!!
 
They are planer blades.
They are likely D2.
You have to have a HT oven and do a very specific annealing to soften them.
Even softened, D-2 is hard to drill.

You can make a knife from them, but it will be more work than the savings will compensate for. Use them to cut sandpaper.
 
Well, my annealing worked, its plenty soft, just, too thick for my cheapo drill. Ive been using it since my real one broke :S
Is there any way that someone would now for sure if this is indeed d2?
Thanks for the info though, means a lot :D
 
I should say that those blades are either from Germany or Yugoslavia. And Im not sure we use the same compositions, let alone names for steel here in EU, which gives me hope :D
 
You would have to contact the people who manufactured it or send it out for analysis.

it would be cheaper to just buy some knife steel
 
Maybe, but not in my country... ;)
Anyways, it says on the forum, that d2 is a semi-stainless, air hardening steel. I managed to anneal it in charcoal fire and air cooled it. It worked, so it cant be a d, can it? :confused:
 
DantheDJ said:
Hello all, recently I found a truckload full of these things:
https://static.kupindoslike.com/Noz-za-abrihter_slika_O_5787845.jpg
They are knives for this machine, whose name I dont know, we call it "abrihter":
http://i26.tinypic.com/34j6il2.jpg
https://static.kupindoslike.com/abrihter_slika_O_5902337.jpg

Here is the head where the blades are inserted:
http://img.goglasi.com/img/81222317

Ive been told these blades make great knives, so my question is:
Is this true?

Has anyone tried them?

And mainly, what type of steel it is, if you know the exact name of the type, that would be of immense help :D

Btw, I havent checked them thoroughly, but there are different lengths, widths and thicknesses in that wonderbox. So Im safe in the long run :rolleyes:

Im currently making a knife from one of them, had to anneal it, hopefully Ill HT it tomorrow :S
And while we are at annealing blades, how to keep them from bending or slightly twisting during the cooling process, any tips? :confused:

Also, it seems I dont own a drill bit that can go through it in ANNEALED STATE!!
Are there some heavy duty, unconventional but cheap bits that can grind through, or do I need a stronger drill? :)

Well, thats all the questions I can think of right now, I will post some pics when its done, IF its done :eek:
P.S. Anyone know what this guy is doing with the knife to get that finish? :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9drLVaTcLo thanks!!
Click to expand...

Well , I make several knives from different planer blades .And I don t find that they a that hard .I use file to grind knife from them and ordinary drill bits for hole without annealing.They are don t hard enough / in that state/ for blade. What I found about steel / rotary blade / for wood is this ...regardless of which steel is in question ,they are not harder more then 46Hrc .
 
I agree, at least for this planer blade, it was somewhat soft to begin with, for a blade. Now its ok, it has to be my cheap drill and even cheaper bits xD
I will definitely try to finish it up by the weekend, just to be sure can it be done :D
 
In the far past I made a lot of knives from planer blades made and sold in North America They are a TYPE of D2 but not near as good when the real D2 was properly heat treated. All the ones I received even brand new were already heat treated I drilled holes with masonary bits.
When used in the field they did not cut as well as a similar knife made from 440-C properly heat treated and were far more difficult to field sharpen.
 
There are also high carbon planer blades. If your charcoal annealing attempt worked, that is more likely what they are. Treat them as if they were 1095 and do a test HT.

My old neighbor used to run a big landscaping company. I would come home and there would be a stack of huge cutter blades from his wood chippers. These were over a foot long, 8-10" wide, and an inch thick. He would have me sharpen them. In exchange, whenever I needed mulch or other tree work, he did it for free. He offered me the ones that got too worn to use any more, but I told him I preferred to use thinner blade steel that I knew the exact alloy content.
 
Stacy, Like you, I instantly saw they were planer blades. I have a 24" thickness planer and as will happen, the blades have some small nicks in them. I consider the cost of new blades obscene since I only use the machine occasionally for personal projects. I sent a set of blades off to be sharpened a few years ago and the company sent them back saying they couldn't do it. Now that I have my knife shop pretty well set up the notion that a simple blade like this can't be sharpened seems absurd. Wouldn't it make sense to make a simple jig to maintain the angle and drag them across the 2 X 72 belt grinder? Probably running like a 220 grit?
Thanks
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
They are planer blades.
They are likely D2.
You have to have a HT oven and do a very specific annealing to soften them.
Even softened, D-2 is hard to drill.

You can make a knife from them, but it will be more work than the savings will compensate for. Use them to cut sandpaper.
Click to expand...
 
I did it by hand. I started with a 56 grit belt on a flat platen, then finished at 220 grit on a 12" disc grinder. Angle was merely kept at the existing angle. He said the commercial sharpener wanted $25 a blade and would only sharpen them a few times before he said they were too worn.
 
RedFury said:
I have a 24" thickness planer and as will happen, the blades have some small nicks in them.
Click to expand...

If the planer blades have nicks in them that shows up in the finished piece you can usually shift one blade over 1/4" and the problem will go away.
 
Well...
Snow decided to fall today, so no HT today :(
I dont know how exactly a semistainless steel rusts, but when I found the blades, they were pretty much a rusted wreck, not too much pitting though, as I found out after an hour of sanding, which was a relief btw :D
1095 is water quenched steel, right?
I will test them as soon as possible, maybe try oil as well, if its 1095, some people say it will differentially harden in oil, leaving the back nice and soft, dunno, will see in a day or two :D
Thanks for the info y'all :)
 
Let's clear somthing up, D2 is not stainless. It's a high aloy carbon steel that has a good amount of chromium in it. In order for somthing to be considered a stainless steel it has to have extra chromium left floating around that the extra carbon does not turn into chromium carbide. "free" chromium creates chromium oxide on the surface of the steel which prevents rust. Kinda like how aluminium creates a thin skin of aluminium oxide when exposed to the air. You will hear numbers like it has to have 10.5% 11% 13% chromium. The amount of chromium needed to be considered a stainless is all dependent of aloy composition of the steel. D2 does have a good amount of chromium in its aloy but it's not free chromium, it's used to make the chromium carbides that make D2 so wear resistance.

I have tons of D2 planer blades that are D2 but to aneal it properly took around 15hrs in a controlled heat treat oven. It's very good steel for knives if it's heat treated properly.
 
Last edited:
Well then, can it be done in a charcoal forge with nothing but a magnet at my side?
Should I oil quench or water quench?
Its still a mystery steel, given that its not us made, what should be a safer choice, oil maybe?
 
D2 is an air hardening steel which means you don't quench it in anything. If these blades are D2 then you can hear them to 1825-1875° and then let air cool and it will harden. I have done some testing with D2 heated to just over non magnetic at 1500° and oil quench. It gets harder but not knife hard, it's crazy tough. If it's 1095 I would heat just past non magnetic and then water quench as a test. After the steel is cold try and snap it in half. If it snaps easly with the blow of a hammer then you know it's a high carbon low aloy steel. But another thing is to just send out a small chunk of it for aloy testing. Costs $50-$100 and thy will tell you exactly what it is. If it's D2 or some other high aloy air hardening steel then without an accurate heat treat oven it's kinda useless to you. But if it's a simple carbon steel then it's simple to work with
 
I will try the test, can I file test the blade, not to be rude or anything, but I dont wanna snap my blade after working on it for a week xD
P.S. What should the water temperature in the quench be? It will probably be around 32 degrees or lower in my garage when I do the quenching...
 
Last edited:
I would NOT I repeat do NOT quench Unknown steel in water unless it's a test of heat treating. Don't spend lots of time on a knife out of mistery steel without knowing how to quench it. Take a small chunk and do different quench tests at different temps into different quench liquids and see what works. Even if it's 1095 I would not quench it in water if it was a blade. The water quench is just to check carbon steel for max hardness.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top