Anyone hear of Dr. Marv and his resin bond diamond stones?

[-BaRD-]

As far as dressing stones is concerned, nothing that my friend or I tried worked, not even aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, or goldsmith's powder, which is used for polishing precious metals.
Finally, after much deliberation, I bought an Atoma 400. I had not had good experiences with electroplated diamonds. But the Atoma is great. It does exactly what Dr. Marv describes on his blog. The stones now grind like new. The 0.5μm stone still causes scratches.
(I first sharpened a few cheap knives on the Atoma to remove loose particles, and since then, even after dressing 5 stones, the roughness of the Atoma has not changed).


I don't have a spectrograph at work. Only analytical software for surface roughness.

Thanks to the functional stones, I also completed pseudo-research on the effect of the lubricant used during grinding.

The results are inconclusive; the sharpness and surface of the ground area were indistinguishable to the naked eye, but small differences can be seen under a microscope at 2500x magnification.

The biggest influence is whether the oil clogs the stone a lot or a little.

The best were Blasogrind HC 5 and Sintogrind IG 540.
ISOPAR H had the best edge finish, but the stone clogged a lot.
Micellar water worked surprisingly well.
In my opinion, detergent and Johnson Baby oil performed the worst. The stone clogged the most after using them, and the stones were then the most difficult to clean.

 

[DeadboxHero]

As far as dressing stones is concerned, nothing that my friend or I tried worked, not even aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, or goldsmith's powder, which is used for polishing precious metals.
Finally, after much deliberation, I bought an Atoma 400. I had not had good experiences with electroplated diamonds. But the Atoma is great. It does exactly what Dr. Marv describes on his blog. The stones now grind like new. The 0.5μm stone still causes scratches.
(I first sharpened a few cheap knives on the Atoma to remove loose particles, and since then, even after dressing 5 stones, the roughness of the Atoma has not changed).


I don't have a spectrograph at work. Only analytical software for surface roughness.

Thanks to the functional stones, I also completed pseudo-research on the effect of the lubricant used during grinding.

The results are inconclusive; the sharpness and surface of the ground area were indistinguishable to the naked eye, but small differences can be seen under a microscope at 2500x magnification.

The biggest influence is whether the oil clogs the stone a lot or a little.

The best were Blasogrind HC 5 and Sintogrind IG 540.
ISOPAR H had the best edge finish, but the stone clogged a lot.
Micellar water worked surprisingly well.
In my opinion, detergent and Johnson Baby oil performed the worst. The stone clogged the most after using them, and the stones were then the most difficult to clean.

Thanks for the detailed post.

The scratch pattern I highlighted with the red lines is that from dressing with the atoma 400 grit?

 

[-BaRD-]

The photos were taken of the new stones immediately after unpacking.

 

[Diemaker]

In my opinion, detergent and Johnson Baby oil performed the worst. The stone clogged the most after using them, and the stones were then the most difficult to clean.

What do you mean by detergent?

Interesting that loose abrasive don't work on this resin.

 

[-BaRD-]

I apologize. Detergent = dish soap. Lost in translation. Loose grain on the dress might have been enough. However, I have access to a microscope.
Photo of the surface after grinding new/dress.

More than 500 passes




Currently, the photo of Atoma's new dress is identical.

 

[777 Edge]

0.5μm
View attachment 3065819

From this image, it appears that they also suffer from the same diamond agglomeration as other fine diamond stones?

The 1 micron stone seems to have less agglomeration.

 

[-BaRD-]

There are black dots in the 0.5μm stone, but it does not appear to be agglomeration. It is more likely due to adhesion. The submicron particles are so small and both surfaces (stone and edge) are so smooth that they stick to each other and the diamond stone tears a piece of material from the steel. Here is one example where I deliberately tried to show what I mean. Mostly, these are just individual thin scratches, but they are visible to the naked eye.

In the manufacturer's words: "The black spots are a regular occurrence on this stone, you do not have a faulty one. It is part of the manufacturing process for this one. The mixture is so abrasive that part of my mixing equipment gets abraded. As I use disposable mixing equipment to avoid contamination, this is not a huge issue. The equipment is made from PET-G, so the hardness is comparable to the resin used."

He also stated that most testers are very satisfied with the 0.5μm stone and that the problem may be my KMFS Vantaedge grinding set.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

When using soap as a water-based sharpening lube I prefer to use "free and clear" unscented/undyed concentrated liquid laundry detergent since it's low-foam, and seems to have greater lubricity. You might give that a go with just a little water (I wet my fingers under the tap and then used them to spread the detergent) as opposed to dish soap.