Anyone sharpen thier finished knives by hand?

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Dec 13, 2008
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Just curious, do any of you guys finish sharpen by hand. On stones I mean? There for a while I was sharpening all our knives on dmt dia sharps down to a XXF and strop(hair whittling) but I enjoy sharpening and to be honest that started taking the fun out of it..Lately its been setting the bevels on the grinder then finishing by hand..
 
I used to but I got tired of it taking an hour and a half. So I get them 80% on low speed grinding wet and then finish with a device similar to a lansky. I can't handle any more 2 hour sharpenings on a 10" chef knife.
 
As soon as the handle is done and coated I move inside. Put Pandora radio on then sharpen away. I start with DMT: extra coarse, coarse, Fine, Extra fine. I then move to Arkansas stones I got from Dans whetstone. I end by stropping with green compound on leather. I do all mine by hand. HOWEVER, I'm not cranking out nearly the amount of blades you guys are. I'm sure I'd turn to the grinder of stuff picked up
 
Yes, until such time as i can afford the couple of grand for a pro grade CATRA machine. ;)
 
I do, sometimes I start it on a the 2x72, but finish by hand with diasharp fine and or XF then green compound. Push cutting newspaper and call it good enough.
 
i am a sucker for keen edges, so YES.
The only way i somehow "cheat" is by setting the bevel/apex with a 250 grit diamond stone, very fast, really flat, and makes it easy on the following more delicate whetstones.
 
For convex grinds I go to sharp on the machine, then finish by hand. I don't do very many flat edges, but those that I do, I go about 98-99% on the machine then finish by hand. I've taken a real liking to newspaper loaded with green compound for a strop.
 
Anyone tried one of these? http://t.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinders-buffers/8-inch-wet-6-inch-dry-grinder-35098.html I don't have a variable speed grinder yet but am also looking for a better way to sharpen. I would use this to set the initial edge and finish on stones or my sharpmaker. I would also like to brag that we here in the big town of Seneca SC are getting a harbor freight. It's going to be awesome and this may be my first purchase.

I just noticed it's a 120 grit wheel. I would swap it for a 220-320 if I could find one.
 
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Use to. But old arthritic achy hands say use the belt grinder now.
 
All my knives are sharpened by hand. Start with 325grit diamond hone, then either 750 grit diamond hone or straight to regular stones up to 1k, 4k, or 8k. Only takes a few minutes total if the knife is adequately thin at the edge, however this is mostly for carbon steels not ultra abrasive resistant super steel.
 
I do almost exactly what JM does except I finish with a 1k and 4K Japanese water stones and green compound strop. I like sharpening by hand. I think it makes it easier for me to reshapen the knife when it needs it too.
 
I used to, still do it for relaxation, but I picked up a Work Sharp Ken Onion edition and get a mirrored edge in minutes.
Now I just hope we don't get hit with an EMP.
 
I have used an Edgepro for sharpening knives for years. Now that I am making some knives I use it after heat treat for sharpening after cleaning up with the belt grinder. Probably not the fastest way but I don't worry about generating temper harming heat and I can easily set a bevel, or primary and secondary bevels.

I am thinking there may be a Catrasharp in my future though. Need to explore ifnits capable of reasonably taking a .020 edge and sharpening it though. Thought for setting up at gun shows and such I might be able to offer a sharpening service as well.
 
I set the bevels and get really close to raising a burr with a 120 grit belt on my grinder.
Then it is finished off with DMT starting at X Coarse out to X Fine and strop.
Used to do it all on the grinder and got nice edges, but I like the hand sharpened edges better.
 
I like my Diafolds
I start with gray 120grit then black/blue red/green and a yellow Belgian waterstone and strop
 
I use a 10 x 30 belt sander and a new 400 grit belt. It sharpens in less than 30 seconds and the blades will cut telephone book paper. I can squeeze the edge with my fingers right after grinding and there is very little warmth so ruining the temper is impossible. I have sharpened and sold hundreds of knives this way. I also own and have tried almost all the popular sharpening tools and occasionally use one or more (on folding knives mostly) but normally the belt sander is the best. I have been using a leather belt charged with green chrome compound at the finish. Larry
 
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A super thin edge will shed heat almost as quickly as it will absorb it. I always go to a fine stone and then a strop to clean up.
I use a 10 x 30 belt sander and a new 400 grit belt. It sharpens in less than 30 seconds and the blades will cut telephone book paper. I can squeeze the edge with my fingers right after grinding and their is very little warmth so ruining the temper is impossible. I have sharpened and sold hundreds of knives this way. I also own and have tried almost all the popular sharpening tools and occasionally use one or more (on folding knives mostly) but normally the belt sander is the best. Larry
 
I sharpen all my knives free hand on a SIC stone or diamond plate. The only time I use power equipment is if the edge is over .020". I like a nice uniform precise edge bevel and the ease of maintenance when it comes time to resharpen.
 
I use any of three methods, and often a combination of all, depending on the desired result. Most of the time, I use a belt grinder and finish with a stropping pass on a paper wheel. I also go from the belt grinder directly to a 1x30 leather belt. With fine slicers, I use my Japanese water stones a la Murry Carter method.

Oh ya... when in the field I either use DMT Diafolds or a combination India stone.

Almost forgot... the knives in my kitchen get the crock stick treatment

and..... I have been known to sharpen convex on leather backed abrasive paper/film.



That's about it.:D
 
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