Anyone sharpen thier finished knives by hand?

Im at the market on saturday mornings so I have lots of time to sharpen by hand. I use a triple stone (coarse, med, fine) then switch to a 1000/4000 water stone, natural stones for finishing, then a quick strop on leather. It tends to bring people to my table to watch.
 
tattooedfreak said:
Im at the market on saturday mornings so I have lots of time to sharpen by hand. I use a triple stone (coarse, med, fine) then switch to a 1000/4000 water stone, natural stones for finishing, then a quick strop on leather. It tends to bring people to my table to watch.
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Freak... is the beeswax guy still there? I need a couple milk cartons worth. Sorry for the stray. I guess I could have PM'd.:p
 
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This VS wet machine, combined with a Bubble Jig produces the finest edges I've ever produced and this is after 20 years of sharpening blades. I switch from this machine to an ERU to maintain or strop. When sharpening kitchen knives having the use of a wet grinding machine is a must if your going to sharpen mechanically.
I do have a diamond plate, 400/1000 that I use occasionally.
 
Fred, what kind of belts are you using for the wet setup?
Fred.Rowe said:
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This VS wet machine, combined with a Bubble Jig produces the finest edges I've ever produced and this is after 20 years of sharpening blades. I switch from this machine to an ERU to maintain or strop. When sharpening kitchen knives having the use of a wet grinding machine is a must if your going to sharpen mechanically.
I do have a diamond plate, 400/1000 that I use occasionally.
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I'm with Brett for the most part. Sometimes I put a rolled edge on a knife but not often... I think they're dangerously sharp for most people. I like Arkansas soft and translucent gray as well as Japanese water stones.
 
jdm61 said:
Fred, what kind of belts are you using for the wet setup?
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I tried the 3M micron belts in 180 through 2000 grit. These belts cupped badly especially in the 180 240 360 grits. I like to use a light touch and the humped belt made keeping the belt flat for passes a challenge.
I'm looking into the cork belts by Norton. They are water poof, need to be broken in using a fracturing/burnishing technique. They claim once they are broken in they will last for years when used for sharpening. I'm going to get a full set which starts at 120 and goes through to 2000 and then zero grit where a grease stick can be used. I'm ordering this week; I'll post the results on this forum under Cork for wet sharpening.

Fred
 
I like Arkansas stone, well I like "good" Arkansas stones..Just like waterstones they are not all the same.
 
IMHO- If it's taking you a long time to sharpen by hand... then you need to work on your finish grinding/blade geometry. :)
 
NickWheeler said:
IMHO- If it's taking you a long time to sharpen by hand... then you need to work on your finish grinding/blade geometry. :)
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The act of sharpening to me, should be like putting the cherry on top of the sundae, the candle on the cake. The work has been done, sharpening is the finishing touch. I've ground a lot of kitchen knives over the last year and I've changed the degree to which I finish before I call the knife complete and then go on to sharpening.
 
Eh eh...it is the most stressful part of knifemaking for me!!!!!!
As i start to work on the HTed blade an hint of paranoia jumps on my shoulders as i thin the blade to the final geometry.
I use water cooled belts but joining nice thin martensite to the grinder always makes me cringe ;)
 
I picked up a large nubatama 150 grit to set my bevels....then raise a bur on a shapton pro and finish on a 10k imanishi if necessary. This is for .010 thick edges or less, for thicker than that I would set bevels with grinder.
 
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