Anything I should know before stripping the scales off of my new Para 2 & 3?

Channellock makes a nice set of torx drivers about $12,usa made ,I have them and work great,they dont come with t10 but i almost never need that size,size t5-t9 make up the set
 
Also, sparklygalaxy sparklygalaxy
Depending on when the PM2 was made, there's at least a reasonable chance that there is red Loctite on the pivot. You probably won't know until you try to remove it...and, at that moment, it might be too late. I'd recommend heating the pivot screws before trying to remove them, just in case.
 
I do not know your level of experience but if you have never taken a Paramilitary 2 apart... it can be difficult to disassemble for the first time as there is the need to defeat the swedged lanyard pipe ends. There is absolutely a learning curve for pulling those flared lanyard pipe ends through the G10 without damage.

When attempting to removing the G10 scale from the lanyard pipe for the first time it is best to take it very slowly. Begin with a careful moderate application of a twisting/pulling/rocking force. You are attempting to pull the larger diameter swaged or flared ends of the lanyard pipe through the slightly smaller diameter hole in the G10 scale. You are wanting that swaged pipe end to worry away a slight amount of G10 material which will enlarge the hole. Work slowly and methodically… as you do not want to damage the lanyard pipe ends. These need to remain perfectly round or circular. It's NOT a Jack Armstrong activity… it takes more patience than effort to pull the pipe ends through the G10 and not damage anything.

Once you have successfully pulled the pipe from both scales you then need to carefully remove the flare from both ends of the pipe. I use a drill… I chuck the lanyard pipe taking care NOT to crush the pipe end. I then spin the pipe and file away the flared pipe end. You ONLY want to take the pipe end down to the same diameter as the rest of the pipe going no further. I also true up the pipe end length a bit just for aesthetics. This is one of those times where you want to check the fit of the lanyard pipe with the stainless liner quite often. Once the end of the pipe snaps easily into the liner hole... that's time to stop filing. If you file too much that will cause looseness issues and possibly a rattling lanyard pipe when reassembled.

Tools needed are...

T-10 Torx for the pivot screws
T-8 Torx for the scale hardware T-6 Torx for the pocket clip screws


If it is not something you are comfortable with I will disassemble and install your new scales on your PM2 at no charge. You just need to send me your knife, the replacement scales, and $3.75 for return postage.

Steve
 
BOOMER52 said:
I do not know your level of experience but if you have never taken a Paramilitary 2 apart... it can be difficult to disassemble for the first time as there is the need to defeat the swedged lanyard pipe ends. There is absolutely a learning curve for pulling those flared lanyard pipe ends through the G10 without damage.

When attempting to removing the G10 scale from the lanyard pipe for the first time it is best to take it very slowly. Begin with a careful moderate application of a twisting/pulling/rocking force. You are attempting to pull the larger diameter swaged or flared ends of the lanyard pipe through the slightly smaller diameter hole in the G10 scale. You are wanting that swaged pipe end to worry away a slight amount of G10 material which will enlarge the hole. Work slowly and methodically… as you do not want to damage the lanyard pipe ends. These need to remain perfectly round or circular. It's NOT a Jack Armstrong activity… it takes more patience than effort to pull the pipe ends through the G10 and not damage anything.

Once you have successfully pulled the pipe from both scales you then need to carefully remove the flare from both ends of the pipe. I use a drill… I chuck the lanyard pipe taking care NOT to crush the pipe end. I then spin the pipe and file away the flared pipe end. You ONLY want to take the pipe end down to the same diameter as the rest of the pipe going no further. I also true up the pipe end length a bit just for aesthetics. This is one of those times where you want to check the fit of the lanyard pipe with the stainless liner quite often. Once the end of the pipe snaps easily into the liner hole... that's time to stop filing. If you file too much that will cause looseness issues and possibly a rattling lanyard pipe when reassembled.

Tools needed are...

T-10 Torx for the pivot screws
T-8 Torx for the scale hardware T-6 Torx for the pocket clip screws


If it is not something you are comfortable with I will disassemble and install your new scales on your PM2 at no charge. You just need to send me your knife, the replacement scales, and $3.75 for return postage.

Steve
Click to expand...
solid.
 
sparklygalaxy said:
Do you think I should get someone experienced to do this for me? Honest question for an honest answer. ♡
Click to expand...

Sparkly...

If this is your first try at disassembling a folder, I'd recommend two things...

1) Take BOOMER52 up on his offer in post # 26
2) Pick up a cheap folder from the exchange here and practice with it, sorta like learning to sharpen

Paras can be disassembled & reassembled in working order, but they aren't the best place to start. They can be a bit difficult for a beginner to get back in proper working order with a centered blade and the action you want.

OTOH... if you're experienced and adventurous... get a set of Wiha torx bits online and have at it! I use the screwdriver set myself. Each torx driver is a separate unit... no swapping bits in and out of a single handle. Make sure it includes a #10.
 
BOOMER52 said:
I do not know your level of experience but if you have never taken a Paramilitary 2 apart... it can be difficult to disassemble for the first time as there is the need to defeat the swedged lanyard pipe ends. There is absolutely a learning curve for pulling those flared lanyard pipe ends through the G10 without damage.

When attempting to removing the G10 scale from the lanyard pipe for the first time it is best to take it very slowly. Begin with a careful moderate application of a twisting/pulling/rocking force. You are attempting to pull the larger diameter swaged or flared ends of the lanyard pipe through the slightly smaller diameter hole in the G10 scale. You are wanting that swaged pipe end to worry away a slight amount of G10 material which will enlarge the hole. Work slowly and methodically… as you do not want to damage the lanyard pipe ends. These need to remain perfectly round or circular. It's NOT a Jack Armstrong activity… it takes more patience than effort to pull the pipe ends through the G10 and not damage anything.

Once you have successfully pulled the pipe from both scales you then need to carefully remove the flare from both ends of the pipe. I use a drill… I chuck the lanyard pipe taking care NOT to crush the pipe end. I then spin the pipe and file away the flared pipe end. You ONLY want to take the pipe end down to the same diameter as the rest of the pipe going no further. I also true up the pipe end length a bit just for aesthetics. This is one of those times where you want to check the fit of the lanyard pipe with the stainless liner quite often. Once the end of the pipe snaps easily into the liner hole... that's time to stop filing. If you file too much that will cause looseness issues and possibly a rattling lanyard pipe when reassembled.

Tools needed are...

T-10 Torx for the pivot screws
T-8 Torx for the scale hardware T-6 Torx for the pocket clip screws


If it is not something you are comfortable with I will disassemble and install your new scales on your PM2 at no charge. You just need to send me your knife, the replacement scales, and $3.75 for return postage.

Steve
Click to expand...


Thank you so so much for the post and the kind offer Steve! :) @Bobadilla004 also offered to help! I will try my hand at it (with lots of help from @HarglBargl) and if I need assistance I will definitely let you know. ♡ thank you so much again! ^_^
 
Oh! Also I'm going to get one of these:

75983-2__88263__79583.1461678402.jpg


♡
 
You will need a 10 for the Para 2 pivot screw. Wiha sets come with different size ranges included. They aren't all 3-8. Just read through the descriptions and find a set that has the sizes you need.
 
You might need to apply force from both ends to get things lose. So you will need to have double of same size of torx bit.
Keep strong downward pressure taking it apart or putting it together or you will strip those screws easily.
Don't over tighten things. Gl
 
Couple things to add - if you are looking just to change scales (and not fully disassemble the knife), you can leave the lanyard tube attached to the two steel liners. This keeps the lanyard tube from getting scuffed. once all the screws are off on one scale, you can gentle insert a small pry tool (like a flathead screwdriver) betwen the liner and the g10. Attach one new scale on that side, then flip and repeat.

And loctite is no joke. I believe Spyderco suggests using a hammer and (gently) pounding the well seated torx bit into the screw to break the bond. Touching it for a bit with a hot soldering iron can also break the bond. And the t-handle picture above is a great way to get enough grip and torque. For the tight screws, it is important to keep pushing down while also loosening it to keep the bit engaged in the screw. A little counterintuitive, but helpful.
 
Yea, 5mm. The "music" plier comes with the 5mm cutout polished so you might want to add some texture with a coarse sharpening stone. If you get a pair hold it closely to your ear for some soulful tunes. :D

I modified some locking pliers for my knife uses and they work great but I was curios and kept googling because I knew an off the shelf option had to exist.
 
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