Anything I should know before stripping the scales off of my new Para 2 & 3?

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I honestly wish the OP best luck but realistically I expect she comes back with stipped screws, off centered blades, and annoying blade play or lock stickness. As craytab craytab said, if you never did this, PM2 is a bad place to start with.
 
sparklygalaxy said:
The title, basically.

I got a set of Ghost Jade Natural G10 scales for each knife and it will be my first time changing scales.

I think for starters I need a knife repair kit, for the correct tools? Or maybe I could just use the Alan wrench set I have?

I have now watched multiple Youtube vids, but your thoughts and vast experience is always most welcome! :)

Happy almost Monday, BF! ^_^

Sincerely,

~ Sparkly ♡
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Why in the wide wide world of sports would you want to change out those gorgeous scales ? Why not use the knives for a bit and see if the natural jade grows on you. At least use the knives for a while, get some of your money back by using them and then decide if you want to spend extra money on new scales. Just a thought.
 
Ajack60 said:
Why in the wide wide world of sports would you want to change out those gorgeous scales ? Why not use the knives for a bit and see if the natural jade grows on you. At least use the knives for a while, get some of your money back by using them and then decide if you want to spend extra money on new scales. Just a thought.
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I'm putting On the ghost jade :)
 
As others have said, the PM2 isn't the easiest knife to disassemble/reassemble. The standoffs and stop pin aren't keyed into the liners, so they will spin freely, and you may only be able to break one of the two opposing screws free without holding the pin still. Last time I swapped the scales on one, I ended up having to (carefully) clamp one of the standoffs in a vise to break the loctite free with the torx driver.
Not trying to discourage you from trying, just be prepared.

Some items to have ready:
1 t6 torx driver (clip screws)
1 t10 torx driver (pivot screws). Pivot is keyed, so you only need one t10.
2 t8 torx drivers (opposing stop pin screws/standoff screws).
Something to heat up the screws with, to break loctite free (Soldering iron works well. Blow dryer might work.)
Pliers (just in case).
Blue or purple loctite (for re-assembly).
Light oil to lube the pivot.
Patience.

Removing the lanyard tube is tricky. Twisting motion works OK, be careful not to pry the scales in a way that will crack the scales. Re-assembling the lanyard tube into the scales is just as tricky - perhaps even trickier.

As others have said, if you're committed to it, and the knife hobby in general (and I think you are), invest in good torx drivers. T6, T8, and T10 are by far the most common. T9 sneaks in every so often. Used a T7 a grand total of once. Can't recall ever using a T3-T5 on a knife. Wiha and Wera are good brands. Bits are fine for a lot of applications, but I prefer dedicated drivers, especially for T6. I have a soft spot for my Wera T6 Torx HF precision driver - great for clip screws.

Good luck!!!
 
sparklygalaxy said:
There's an ACE Hardware store down the street from me. I'm planning the project for Saturday so when the weekend rolls around I might just walk over and get my supplies there. ^_^
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You seriously need to make sure you buy quality torx bits. You can ruin your knives if you buy cheap ones. Often local hardware stores will have generic brands of unknown quality. You have been given advice on known quality torx bits. I'd suggest you take it.

Also, you never clarified some points. Have you taken a knife apart before? What paras are these? Are they new? If the para2 is old stock it could have red loctite which could be a real problem.
 
craytab said:
You seriously need to make sure you buy quality torx bits. You can ruin your knives if you buy cheap ones. Often local hardware stores will have generic brands of unknown quality. You have been given advice on known quality torx bits. I'd suggest you take it.

Also, you never clarified some points. Have you taken a knife apart before? What paras are these? Are they new? If the para2 is old stock it could have red loctite which could be a real problem.
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Okay, I'll make certain to get good tools. ^_^ I have never taken a knife apart before and the knives are brand new.
 
sparklygalaxy said:
Okay, I'll make certain to get good tools. ^_^ I have never taken a knife apart before and the knives are brand new.
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I would seriously consider taking apart a few easier to disassemble knives first. Get a feel for what it is like. I've taken apart most of the knives I own for cleaning and maintenance. Never any of my pm2s. I find the task intimidating and not worth the effort. Even more so than the many BMS I've taken apart, which can be a real pita to get back together.

Here's a fun picture thread of the many different types of knives apart to give you an idea.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/disassembly-pics.1363238/
 
sparklygalaxy said:
Okay, I'll make certain to get good tools. ^_^ I have never taken a knife apart before and the knives are brand new.
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you'd be better off going to an automotive parts place for better quality torx bits.
I have just one question, how in the hell did you cross over from the world of traditional folders to modern folderso_O
 
Some kind soul here please do the scale swap for the OP as she asked? I would volunteer but I seriously doubt my ability of doing it perfectly with a PM2.
 
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