Are people influenced too easily when it comes to knife steel?

I think the blade steel is a consideration when buying a knife but is secondary to the rest of the knife desigun. If the handle/knife body is uncomfortable then who cares about the blade steel? The knife won’t get used! I think it is great that we have new choices in blade steels but I am at the point where I don’t mind sharpening my EDC and I want something that is easy to sharpen using ceramics.
I guess that doesn’t really answer the question about people being influenced by blade steels.
 
David Mary said:
I owned over a dozen knives in 8Cr13MoV, and I always liked them. But having switched to the same model in S35VN, I doubt I'll ever want to go back.
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Me too. I remember when 8Cr13Mov was the hot new thing. It was certainly an upgrade from stuff like AUS-6 or 5Cr15. Nowadays, I mostly mentioned it negatively as an outdated steel in knives that cost more than they should.

That's not because 8Cr13Mov has fallen out of favor or is terrible for EDC. It can work for EDC and remains better than some of the worse steels out there. It's just that the gap in actual performance between 8Cr13Mov and current budget stainless like 9Cr18Mov, 14C28N, N690, etc. is practically the Grand Canyon.

In 2022, $50 knives in 8Cr13Mov are hot garbage versus the rest of the market: $20 knives in 8Cr13Mov, $30 knives in Chinese D2, $40 for a Sencut in 9Cr18Mov with a great heat treatment, or a $50 Kizer in N690.
 
When they design and manufacture a knife steel that is harder, tougher, more wear resistant and is also "easier to sharpen", then I might be influenced.
Until then, blade geometry and handle ergonomics that fit the particular cutting requirement is something that I pay more attention to. Also has to be easy to sharpen.
 
David Mary said:
I owned over a dozen knives in 8Cr13MoV, and I always liked them. But having switched to the same model in S35VN, I doubt I'll ever want to go back.
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On that note, I am really glad I picked up a Resilience per your recommendation. I have the model in G10 and 8CR13MOV and its been a great work knife.

The steel has handled everything I have thrown at it so far. Cutting open seed bags, fertilizer totes, cardboard, plastic jugs, zip ties, overgrown shrub branches, rouge plants, tassels, plastic tarps, wax paper bags, tape, you name it.

A minute stropping at night before bed, and she's ready to go for the next morning.
 
DavidABQ said:
I think the blade steel is a consideration when buying a knife but is secondary to the rest of the knife desigun. If the handle/knife body is uncomfortable then who cares about the blade steel? The knife won’t get used!
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With a few decades of serious knife use as an enthusiast, outdoorsman, and service member allow me the opportunities to use bladed tools all over the globe and more than my fair share of combat deployments, this has also been my conclusion. I love the innovative aspects and even the nerdy, geeky aspects of metallurgy magic in knife steels…however, I’ve seen “the best, premium” marketed steel touted for those same three-plus decades. I still want to see the innovation, but quite frankly the differences in performance are really miniscule to the average knife user. Cost is always a factor as well, which is why some old-school steels are still a large part of production choices.

Now, the steel type is more of a consideration of knife-use and the heat-treatment, the latter largely impacted by maker or manufacturer reputation for optimum hardness and consistency. I have a custom “bush sword”, a Szabo Bush Sword, in ATS-34, heat-treated superbly by the (no longer in business) Ernest Mayer of Black Cloud Knives. I have abused that 17.5” blade of a supposedly brittle steel and while I did get a few dings, I was able to straighten them out, but it has never chipped. Conversely, even custom makers get bad batches and I had a lovely Scandi design in D2 from Charles May that literally chipped (very noticeable) doing feather cuts on a straight-grain pine 2x4.

Heat treatment and blade profile often more important than the choice of steel.

Is it Bladeforum heresy to not really consider the knife steel as a high priority for choosing a knife:eek:? I’ll admit, I have several categories before I really focus in on the steel choice…

1. Intended use
2. Design
3. Maker/manufacturer
4. Reputation for heat treatment
5. Blade profile and grind
6. Sheath
7. Steel
8. Ease of sharpening
9. Corrosion resistance

The “grail” of knife steel has been discovered, introduced, and marketed a few dozen times over the past few decades and it will continue as long as mankind still has the capacity to innovate, experiment, and improve metallurgical processes. Ironically, I would feel more comfortable with an old school high carbon steel like 1095, O1, A2, or even a budget stainless like 420 or 4440C that has a great design, blade profile/geometry, and heat-treated by a reputable maker/manufacturer than a mass-produced premium steel that isn’t from a well-known, reputable manufacturer. Don’t forget purpose. While some premium steels can be exceptionally tough, they’re often compromised when used as a heavy impact, chopping tool where the heat-treatment is just as important.

I still like to follow the evolution of knife steels, but I no longer care as much about the steel choice as much as a design, blade profile and other aspects for a particular knife choice...

ROCK6
 
Some folks are, some folks ain't.
I know for my uses, 10xx, 440A, 425HC, whatever SAK, OPINEL, and MAM use, and even 9CR/7CR/5CR and (Buck's) 420J2 will cut/slice what I need to, peel a critter, or clean a fish.
They are also fast and easy to sharpen in the field with a simple oil stone. I place a premium on easy to sharpen without a diamond plate or a SiC stone or wet/dry sandpaper.
I have S30V, CPM154, D2, and 440C blades, buy I rarely carry them.

I may be mistooken, but I believe cutlery companies (for the most part) know what the properties of the steels are, and use steels appropriate for the types of tasks any particular style/pattern knife is expected to be used for.
For example: Does a 3.125 inch closed Barlow or a 2.875 inch closed Peanut need a steel that can be batoned through a railroad tie, moose antler or femur?
IMHO, the answer is a resounding "ELL NO!!!" 440A/425HC/1095 is more than sufficient for what the knife is designed for.
 
afishhunter said:
Does a 3.125 inch closed Barlow or a 2.875 inch closed Peanut need a steel that can be batoned through a railroad tie, moose antler or femur?
IMHO, the answer is a resounding "ELL NO!!!"
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Now a senior stockman, that’s a whole nother story.

Parker
 
I'm not easily influenced by anyone or anything - I'm very picky. I'm so picky that it gets on my family's nerves. But I do try to not be a jerk about it, or sound like a jerk.
 
Lost Cause, knives are sold with a vast number of different steel blades. I just happen to edc a knife with a CPM-M4 steel blade. Folks think I'm dumb because CPM-M4 may corrode. But after several years it hasn't yet, and neither have my guns. I give both an occasional squirt and rubdown with BreakFree CLP lube. It works for me. I would never say CPM-M4 is the end-all, be-all steel in the world of knives.

You just have to check around and get what you like that does the job you want your knife to do.
 
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Influenced is a tricky word to apply to someone's approach, for me, if it's a tool steel.or carbon steel, or Can't be classified as stainless it's a no go for me. Still struggling with allowing D2 in my life. So far it's on the outs.
I think most of us actually users, who talk less and cut more all have a list of preferred steels, so if their favorite maker starts using something you havnt seen in a while like N695, you might pause
 
I cared a lot more back when my only sharpening ability was using a Sharpmaker. Now that I can put pretty much whatever edge I want on a knife, it matters a lot less. The steel used is one of the last things I consider when choosing a knife.
 

Are people influenced too easily when it comes to knife steel?​


Is that a rhetorical question ?

As far as I am concerned when it comes to me maybe. Maybe I am. It just might be so.
 
greater said:

Are people influenced too easily when it comes to knife steel?​


Is that a rhetorical question ?

As far as I am concerned when it comes to me maybe. Maybe I am. It just might be so.
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LOL... This was a great response, IMHO... :)

I can't account for when a knife steel has proven to be a "trigger" in my purchase -- but has it happened? Absolutely! :D
 
Great thread. I can’t speak to the science of steels as well as some of the more experienced members here, however I can appreciate the progress in knife steels.

It’s easy to see how much longer my knives with Elmax can go in between sharpening vs my old Spyderco pro venator.

Can I tell a meaning difference between S30v vs Elmax? Not really.

I still have lots to learn.
 
Whiskers the cat said:
Great thread. I can’t speak to the science of steels as well as some of the more experienced members here, however I can appreciate the progress in knife steels.

It’s easy to see how much longer my knives with Elmax can go in between sharpening vs my old Spyderco pro venator.

Can I tell a meaning difference between S30v vs Elmax? Not really.

I still have lots to learn.
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Good point. The average knife user, like me, probably can’t tell much difference between all these high end steels. Maybe something like maxamet with extreme edge retention.

For the average everyday tasks, my VG10 or buck 420 is just fine. I can appreciate new steels for their unique properties like being rust proof or super tough. If someone needs a ton of edge retention then it is nice to have those options
 
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