Argument against flat grinds

Houlahound said:
What are you talking about, do you think the Russel chart is actual micro-photographs??
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No, exactly, those are just for illustration and aren't completely realistic. The convex is particularly unrealistic since it is smooth. True convex is the cusp at the intersection of two curved surfaces.
 
Houlahound said:
Yeah the AG Russel chart gets posted here a lot like it's the official BF definition.

Here is blade HQ chart with better graphics better explanations than Russel.

Certainly no universal agreement on what FFG is. I will stick with the conventions of the English language and logic where full means full.

https://www.bladehq.com/cat--Knife-Grinds-Guide--3580
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LOL, whatever dude. At the end of the day, everyone is gonna look at YOU as the person who’s wrong.
 
Houlahound said:
and I can post charts with no bevel.

Also it does not help making a technical definition with the word "typically" in it.
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Some people make a stand over the most petty things.....

TYPICALLY, knives that are referred to as having a full flat grind have a secondary bevel. Please try to deal with the generally (aka TYPICALLY) accepted definition of what a full flat grind means to the average (aka TYPICAL) Bladeforum member.
 
What do you think the reason is why almost nobody makes knives without secondary bevels, because that's where the heart of this discussion was divided. Even if the knife is a FFG, Sabre grind, scandi grind etc, 99% of companies except rockstead, European scandi models, custom high end japanese knives and a few custom makers, all knives have secondary bevels. You don't see sabre grinds without secondary bevels.
All of the knives I make have 1 edge grind, even if it is sabre grind height, it will be just a single bevel all the way to the edge.
Go ahead I hope 99% of makers keep putting secondary bevels on knives, that just makes the knives without secondary bevels all the more sought after.
https://imgur.com/a/hyLuDty
No secondary bevel sabre grind 1/16 (1.5mm) stock.
 
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I have a few knives with a convex edge -- Marble's Campcraft and Fieldcraft in 52100 (coincidentally, from Mike Stewart's era there), and my SRK, which came with quite an obtuse V grind, which I re-shaped to convex with a fine file and some elbow grease. I'd have a hard time telling whether they hold up any longer or cut better or worse than my knives with V grinds. The amount of steel just behind the cutting edge seems inconsequential IMHO; I don't even know how you'd measure any difference. My Roselli Carpenter's Knife (Krupp W9/01) is pretty close to a true Scandi grind with no noticeable bevel after some sharpening (you could call the blade convex), and my Ivan Campos Scandi grind in 1070 is a true 0 bevel (saber grind though) and the sharpest knife I have.
 
FWIW I give all my FFG blades (Spyderco) a microconvex as soon as the factory edge goes dull and it is always an improvement in cutting power. No chipping either. In a handful ofdifferent steels.
 
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