Arkansas stones and oil, a 'cultural' thing?

I always used new motor oil on my Arkansas stones, and soapy water on my diamond stones.
 
I've eyed that gallon jug of mineral oil at Tractor Supply, in the past. It's tempting, but I'd likely not use it in a lifetime. So I always pass it up, when I see it over there. Maybe someday... ;D
 
A good lapping fluid works well, too. I find that Arkansas stones are at their very best when sharpening 400-series stainless or 1095 or CV carbon, but for modern super-steels I much prefer a 6"x2" diamond plate (800 to 2000 depending on toothless desired) for which the lapping oil also works great.
 
A good water-based alternative is a little scent/dye-free laundry detergent. Has excellent viscosity but washes out. Deliberately low-foam, so it doesn't make a huge sudsy mess when in use.
 
Dave Dallam said:
A good lapping fluid works well, too. I find that Arkansas stones are at their very best when sharpening 400-series stainless or 1095 or CV carbon, but for modern super-steels I much prefer a 6"x2" diamond plate (800 to 2000 depending on toothless desired) for which the lapping oil also works great.
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I'm pretty sure that the stones in my Hall's Pro Edge Wet Hone kit are Arkansas stones, and they won't even scratch the 425M steel in my 1990 Buck 301 pocket knife. The RCH is over 65. I have to use diamonds on it.
 
000Robert said:
I'm pretty sure that the stones in my Hall's Pro Edge Wet Hone kit are Arkansas stones, and they won't even scratch the 425M steel in my 1990 Buck 301 pocket knife. The RCH is over 65. I have to use diamonds on it.
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Standard aluminum oxide or silicon carbide stones should cut that steel no problem.
 
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