Ask Toooj

Wood Splitter,

Purposeful change. Many states have laws against double edged knives. The sharpened swedge falls into that category. So we don't sharpen the swedge except for US Military Contract knives.
It's easy to sharpen the swedge if you so desire.
Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
V.P. of Engineering
Ontario Knife Company
 
Toooj said:
beachmaster,

I went out into the factory and took readings on both Gen II Spec Plus blades and some Bushcraft blades (both are 5160). They were all 57-58HRc after temper. This is perfectly acceptable for 5160 and for larger blades that will take a beating.
I understand that our catalog lists our 5160 knives at 53-55HRc and our 1095 knives at 53-58HRc. I don't know who came up with those specs but I'm thinking they will be changed in the future. We should be able to list a closer Hardness Spec than that.
As a general rule of thumb; larger blades that will be used as choppers, batoners, etc. will be tempered a couple of Hardness points lower than blades that need edge holding and sharpness. 5160 is an extremely tough steel but it can also be hardened to fairly high Hardness. There is only approx. 0.60% Carbon so that after Vidmate iTunes Notepad++ saturation into the steel matrix, there isn't a lot of free carbon remaining to form carbides...not there are a lot of other alloys in the 5160 chemistry to form carbides. Interestingly enough, not having large carbide strings also allows the edge to not chip out as much. It is typically the large carbides that chunk out at the edge.
Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Director of Engineering
Ontario Knife Company
Click to expand...
Case in point: Spyderco's Taichung, Taiwan models, many of which are made from titanium or carbon fiber, S30V are extremely well built and very good mid-level or high end production knives. They are also very good sellers, I mean they keep making knives there using the high end materials, so......
 
Last edited:
Mister Moon said:
Today, i received from my best friend PWCOSOL (an M9 bayos collector), this message :

Thanks for the link to the OKC 1FTS. I recall, a friend. telling me OKC was going to produce commercial versions of the FT-series...
ogCqOdG.jpg
Click to expand...
was this it?
http://www.ontarioknifestore.com/ontario-okc-10-tanto-bayonet-system-discontinued/

Also, according to the writer of this article
http://www.usmilitaryknives.com/bayo_points_28.htm
regatding the okc3
"..the winning design was one of 16 styles submitted by the Ontario Knife Company of Franklinville, New York..."
So wow! were there actually 16 different submissions by ontario knives ? Would be nice to know how excactly these differed and looked like.
 
Last edited:
Hello Toooj. My question regards the Chimera, and whether there are any plans to redesign the tang and pommel system to be stronger, and more accurate to its marketing as a hard-use knife. I am aware that he was flagrantly abusing the knife, but seeing as the Chimera commands a nearly $100 price tag, I believe Mayor Fuglycool's Chimera should not have broken the way it did. (Certainly previous tests may have compromised the integrity of the tool, but the pommel did snap off, ultimately, while doing something it was marketed to be able to do, bashing/crushing.)

I love my SP2 pilot knife, and have total faith in its relatively wider, much better-designed stick tang compared to most Ka-Bars. (I also don't abuse my knives.) But the design of the Chimera's D2 pommel fitting seems to me like a glaring structural flaw. This is a shame as it's one of the coolest looking knives I've ever seen, I love beefy overbuilt hardware, and overall I really do want to like, and own, a Chimera.

Thanks for reading.
 
Last edited:
GIRLYmann,

I did find the book with the drawings. I will see about posting...it maybe confidential. If it is, I'll just post about the pattern shapes.

oinker,

I will view the video and let you know.
Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
V.P. of Engineering
Ontario Knife Company
 
OntarioKnifeCompany said:
In keeping with the tradition of you guys having all the best ideas on BladeForums, Tdhurl1103 suggested we start an "Ask Toooj" thread for questions that can be directed to our Director of Engineering, Paul Tsujimoto. Paul has a wealth of experience and knowledge in this industry, and is usually who I run to when people here on BladeForums ask things that require me to sound smart.

Happy asking!
Click to expand...
OntarioKnifeCompany said:
In keeping with the tradition of you guys having all the best ideas on BladeForums, Tdhurl1103 suggested we start an "Ask Toooj" thread for questions that can be directed to our Director of Engineering, Paul Tsujimoto. Paul has a wealth of experience and knowledge in this industry, and is usually who I run to when people here on BladeForums ask things that require me to sound smart.

Happy asking!
Click to expand...
 
:)
It is a few days since I bought the karambit ontario ranger from (official dealer 150 €) ergonomics and dimensions of this knife they are fantastic I will buy a second soon, but I want to know why the factory sharpening is not razor-sharp for me it is not a problem but given the enormous thickness of the blade and the type of 5160 steel it is tiring to perform a razor sharpening :)
 
a large online retailer is selling the okc bushcraft machete, 16" in 5160 steel. I'm just curious when were the last of those made in that steel? Nice micarta handles also, are they using a canvas base or something else?

timthumb.php
 
Dear Toooj, I just picked up the M3 and have been pouring over numerous threads and online articles about care for the leather grip. Both the grip and sheath feel great, and smell like a magnificent new saddle. I know that the "suedish" feel of the grip will smooth out over time, but is there a single product and/or treatment that you recommend to protect the porous nature of the rough leather? Thank you in advance.
 
Dear Tooj-

In this picture on the right is an OLD stamped Sp5 that shows a Spec Plus handle as i known every generation of Spec Plus handle to be- that is molded directly to the tang with a finished top.

On the left is 1 of 2 sp53 handles that i have recieved with what looks like an unfinished, smooth top with squared corners, and a considerable gap between the handle and the tang, and both sp53s like this wobble in the handle.

Whats up? Are handles made entirely differently now, or did yall have a monsterous bad batch go out accidentally?

 
Does anyone know whom I could contact at Ontario about an SP53 that I sent in for repair or replacement due to a loose handle? The knife was a new purchase and the handle rattled out of the box. The customer service lady requested that I send it in to be repaired or replaced. I sent it in on Janurary 31st. Fedex tracked it to Ontario in Franklinville on Feb 3rd. Since then I haven't been able to contact anyone at Ontario, I have left a couple of voice mails with their customer service dept, and sent an an email requesting an update, but nothing so far. I am very disappointed with their customer service.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top