Aus8 and 8cr13mov: Good, Bad, or Exceptional?

The OP mentioned an RTAC-III. Is there such a thing? I thought he might have meant an RTAC-II but those were made of 1095 and are now made of 5160.

My bad, I forgot to delete that. I don't believe there is such a thing as an RTAC III and if there was it would probably be a fixed blade and carbon steel, that should not have been in the post.
 
I think AUS-8 and 8cr13mov are decent steels, and I don't mind them in budget knives.

I don't have a lot of experience with 8cr... since it's used in Chinese knives and I don't usually buy those. I've got a Mule and a Tenacious from Spyderco in 8cr... and they are OK. Nothing exciting but certainly useful.

I've got AUS-8 knives from Cold Steel and Spyderco. They work just fine. The Cold Steels I've got are either beaters (American Lawman, Recon 1) or huge folders that I carry more for fun than anything else (Talwar XL, Voyager XL), AUS-8 isn't a bad choice for that sort of knife.
 
All things considered, AUS-8 is better than 8cr13mov. BUT, 8cr13mov is still not that bad. I would compare it to AUS-6, or maybe a tad above that.

I like AUS-8 just fine. It sharpens pretty easily and holds an edge well. It works well under heavy pressure and the edge doesn't chip out. I won't use much lower on the totem pole than AUS-8. AUS-6 is a completely different animal than AUS-8. AUS-6 will lose a sharp edge the second you look at it funny.

We are in a "golden age" for knives right now. We are getting to try out new, exotic, and exciting technology when it comes to blade steel. It is getting to the point where even the "lowest quality" steels are still pretty good. I'm pretty sure most of us on BF don't buy "gas station junk knives", so most of what we are getting from good companies is at worst very serviceable, and at best phenomenal.
 
My bad, I forgot to delete that. I don't believe there is such a thing as an RTAC III and if there was it would probably be a fixed blade and carbon steel, that should not have been in the post.

No problem. I love my RTAC-II and didn't want to miss out on seeing what a III would look like. Addressing your question, I have always had a good experience with AUS8.
 
If you aren't a steel snob, AUS-8 and 8Cr are perfectly usable steels, that while not amazing or record setting, will do a perfectly adequate job. Would I rather have a steel like 154cm? Sure, but those steels will make a fine user.
 
I guess something I'm curious to know is are there any high end steels that will take an edge as easily as aus8 or 8cr13mov? As mentioned I spent a ton of time on some hard vg10 and I know my brother has spent quite a long time sharpening ZT s30v. I don't mind sharpening more often if it only takes a few minutes.

In fairness I guess I should clarify I was sharpening out a chip on the vg10 which took quite some time.
 
Meh, if it takes longer to sharpen it usually stays sharp longer. That's how I look at it.

Be sure you don't sharpen your blade down to a toothpick just get a chip out! I'd just live with the chip and gradually it will go away through many, many gradual sharpenings. That way, you get more use out of your blade. It will eventually go away.
 
I guess something I'm curious to know is are there any high end steels that will take an edge as easily as aus8 or 8cr13mov? As mentioned I spent a ton of time on some hard vg10 and I know my brother has spent quite a long time sharpening ZT s30v. I don't mind sharpening more often if it only takes a few minutes.

A2 is very high performance to me. I don't know about high end, but it IS high performance. It is not all that tough to sharpen either. Takes a razor edge and holds it forever.
 
I have several AG Russell knives with 8cr13mov. They seem to be done right and perform really well.
 
I'll echo what others have said: fine steels. I think a lot of what puts people off with regards to 8cr13mov is the name, to be honest. Doesn't exactly roll of the tongue, does it?
 
They're good user steels, especially at the price point they're sold at.

That there are better steels today speaks more to rapid advances in metallurgy than any deficiency in the steels themselves. If we adopted Buck's mantra that Bos treated 420HC is all the steel we really need, AUS8 and 8Cr would be regarded as brilliant. I've put a 15dps edge on both a RAT1 and a Meadowlark 2, and they seem to take equally fine edges, although I don't really use a knife hard enough to test edge retention.
 
I think aus-8 and 8cr are sometimes exceptional in their value like the tenacious, some kershaws, some cold steels (voyagers especially) but not exceptional performing like say, s90v, but its the pricepoint that matters and for that reason I dont have a problem with either steel at all. Dont count on me spending much more than $60 on an aus-8 or 8cr knife (unless is a huge cs folder:D) though because theres better steels in that territory. The lowest steel I would go is probably traditional carbon steels like case chrome vanadium or bokers c75 because those companies can be trusted, I have found that aus-8 or 8cr hold a little better edge than these though.
 
Aus 8 is by far the tougher steel.
Both can get super sharp very easily.
But I have given AUS 8 mostly by cold steel a beating. And it took alot more than 8cr ever could. Same work has made 8CR warp and bend on me. Still it is a great steel for the price. But with the choice. AUS 8 done correct all day long.
No Doubt in my mind.

Matt
 
I think aus-8 and 8cr are sometimes exceptional in their value like the tenacious, some kershaws, some cold steels (voyagers especially) but not exceptional performing like say, s90v, but its the pricepoint that matters and for that reason I dont have a problem with either steel at all. Dont count on me spending much more than $60 on an aus-8 or 8cr knife (unless is a huge cs folder:D) though because theres better steels in that territory. The lowest steel I would go is probably traditional carbon steels like case chrome vanadium or bokers c75 because those companies can be trusted, I have found that aus-8 or 8cr hold a little better edge than these though.

Yessir!!! I love the Recon 1 XL! I would have bought that thing with a 440a blade. AUS8 is just fine. Nothing wrong with it at all.
 
If your cutting needs are met with aus8 and cr13 then you will be fine...

Why would anyone's "cutting needs" not be met with either one? Even the cheapest Pakistani POS2000 will still cut stuff. I can get either of these steels sharp as a lightsaber. They hold an edge for what I would consider a more than acceptable amount of time. (especially AUS8)
 
Why would anyone's "cutting needs" not be met with either one? Even the cheapest Pakistani POS2000 will still cut stuff. I can get either of these steels sharp as a lightsaber. They hold an edge for what I would consider a more than acceptable amount of time. (especially AUS8)

Sounds like your the expert, please tell me more about "lightsaber sharp".
 
AUS-8 and 8Cr13MoV are well balanced steels and arguably are some of the best choices for most users: they balance price with edge retention, toughness, ease of sharpening, and stain resistance. They aren't going to match up to higher end steels - as should be obvious - but one shouldn't underestimate the advantages of how easy they are to sharpen and how relatively inexpensive knives made in these steels are, and when done well (e.g. Spyderco budget lines) they will hold an edge just fine.
 
Sounds like your the expert, please tell me more about "lightsaber sharp".

MMMMMM, much to learn you have young Jedi, but tell you I will! Colloquial term it is. Similar to "screaming sharp, "scary sharp" and "razor sharp" the term is!

MMMM, the force you can use to get "lightsaber sharpness", but proper sharpening techniques you must know.

Feel the force flow through you... Sharpmaker can you use! Swipes with blade down the stones you must make. AUS8 or other steels matter not, young Jedi. Proper technique must you have!

MMMM, scared young Skywalker? You will be.... you will be.....
 
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