Aus8 and 8cr13mov: Good, Bad, or Exceptional?

From my experience with a Benchmade Vex, Spyderco Persistence and an early CRKT M16, AUS8 and 8cr13mov are fine. Just strop them up often. They get sharp and don't need a lot of maintenance to prevent corrosion. The price point gives you a great truck or BOB knife, too.

Most of my daily cutting is opening up mail and bags of dog food so YMMV.
 
I've had good experiences with both. They perform well for all of my EDC uses, and the price point is generally lower than the "super steels". Sure, it won't have the edge retention of M390 or CPM-M4, but that's not their target audience. I've gotten more consistent edges when sharpening AUS8, but I'd readily concede that it's my sharpening skills and not the steel itself.
 
IMHO AUS-8 is very high quality for the money, 8Cr13Mov is ok but doesn't do it for me like AUS-8 does. Now if only more knives using these steels said Made in U.S.A. I'd be good to go.
 
It's been a couple of years, but I tested 8Cr13MoV against some S30V (Byrd Cara Cara and Benchmade Griptillian Tanto). The Byrd stayed even with the Griptillian for a long while, with both still able to treetop hair on the back of my head after cutting about 50 feet of cardboard (milk boxes). If you are the type who sharpens their knife after it starts to loose that initial crisp edge, then going to a better steel is pointless. If you like to use a working edge and/or do a lot of cutting of dirty or naturally abrasive materials, AUS-8 and 8Cr13MoV might not be for you. I'd hesitate to say they are good, bad, or exceptional. It depends on how you use your knife and how often you sharpen.
 
A. G. Russell said:
It is pretty simple, really, at that price level VG-10 will come near increasing the price 100% and S30V closer to 400%.

Any businessman can do the math in his head.

I can see the point of making a few knives of a plus steel when possible.
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Hey AG I appreciate the response, I'm a huge fan of what you guys produce!

So the way I'm interpreting this is that even those these are superior steels they don't necessarily cause what they're listed at to produce? Can anyone comment on this?
 
Steel is not usually a big deal in my decision making unless it's a higher priced knife. Cold Steel should not be selling a 450$ knife with AUS-8!! Holy crap, you can get a knife custom made or basically any Spyderco with that money, and get nothing short of s30v! So if I'm spending less than 50$ AUS-8 is perfectly fine. Otherwise I can pick up a new frn Native for 15 bucks more and have a much more serious steel and made in the USA.

Seriously FRN Native is the most underrated knife IMO. Same price range as some AUS-8 blades.
 
I'd call AUS 8 and 8CR13MOV "unremarkable", instead of "exceptional". If they satisfy what a user requires, then fine. They are not top performers though.
 
They work fine unless you intend to slice miles of hemp rope or tons of cardboard day in and day out. And we all do that daily, right ?

As usual, A.G. has it right.
 
I always find it amusing when steel snobs claim that less-expensive steels dull instantly. I whittle with mostly Cold Steel folders, and frequently cut wood for hours on end with nothing but the occasional stropping while I work. Compare that to the workload of the average CPM-S35VN/M390/ S90V/whatever pocket knife and I'm pretty sure in the vast majority of cases you'll find my $25 CS knives are getting more work (literally an hour or more of continuous cutting of wood per day) and they're doing just fine, thanks.

w0PhkOw.jpg


Steel snobbery is just a tool for marketing and intense Internet self-pleasuring sessions. The vast majority of "super" steel knives listed on the exchange are "LNIB", "BNIB", "factory edge", "never used, only flipped", etc. For regular carry purposes most folks don't use a pocket knife enough to have to sharpen it more than a few times a year, outside of we knife nuts who are known to sharpen to critical sharpness on a regular basis for the fun of it. Even doubling edge retention means almost nothing in reality; it's the difference between sharpening once every six months and sharpening once every three, big deal.

Snobs act like 8Cr13MoV, AUS-8, 440C, etc. are unusably crappy, but the world got along just fine when 440C was the best stuff going--amazingly, things still got cut.

AUS-8 and 8Cr13Mov are fine for actual use, outside of collecting or a need for vigorous Internet forum self-loving sessions.
 
evilgreg said:
I always find it amusing when steel snobs claim that less-expensive steels dull instantly. I whittle with mostly Cold Steel folders, and frequently cut wood for hours on end with nothing but the occasional stropping while I work. Compare that to the workload of the average CPM-S35VN/M390/ S90V/whatever pocket knife and I'm pretty sure in the vast majority of cases you'll find my $25 CS knives are getting more work (literally an hour or more of continuous cutting of wood per day) and they're doing just fine, thanks.

w0PhkOw.jpg


Steel snobbery is just a tool for marketing and intense Internet self-pleasuring sessions. The vast majority of "super" steel knives listed on the exchange are "LNIB", "BNIB", "factory edge", "never used, only flipped", etc. For regular carry purposes most folks don't use a pocket knife enough to have to sharpen it more than a few times a year, outside of we knife nuts who are known to sharpen to critical sharpness on a regular basis for the fun of it. Even doubling edge retention means almost nothing in reality; it's the difference between sharpening once every six months and sharpening once every three, big deal.

Snobs act like 8Cr13MoV, AUS-8, 440C, etc. are unusably crappy, but the world got along just fine when 440C was the best stuff going--amazingly, things still got cut.

AUS-8 and 8Cr13Mov are fine for actual use, outside of collecting or a need for vigorous Internet forum self-loving sessions.
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Bull. Come to work with me, and your AUS8 would be finished by 6:30 am. I have nothing against AUS8 or 440c, but I don't whittle wood for a living. There has been quite a few days when I have had to put an M4 blade on a ceramic rod just to get through the day. Breaking down 1 1/4" thick cardboard Gaylord boxes that are used for 1400 lbs of material, will work over any steel. Just one box equals 16 feet of cutting. The other alternative is to use a Sawzall, messy, slow, and inconvenient. A high quality tool steel blade will also deburr aluminum, and cleanly slice 1/4" HDPE. Why use my knife for this stuff? One tool in my pocket for many jobs, it works well, and because I damn well please. Some of us actually expect high performance results from our high performance steels.
 
Akcir said:
Bull. Come to work with me, and your AUS8 would be finished by 6:30 am. I have nothing against AUS8 or 440c, but I don't whittle wood for a living. There has been quite a few days when I have had to put an M4 blade on a ceramic rod just to get through the day. Breaking down 1 1/4" thick cardboard Gaylord boxes that are used for 1400 lbs of material, will work over any steel. Just one box equals 16 feet of cutting. The other alternative is to use a Sawzall, messy, slow, and inconvenient. A high quality tool steel blade will also deburr aluminum, and cleanly slice 1/4" HDPE. Why use my knife for this stuff? One tool in my pocket for many jobs, it works well, and because I damn well please. Some of us actually expect high performance results from our high performance steels.
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You seem to have reading comprehension issues. I said "the vast majority" not every, because that's what I meant, and I stand by it. For the vast majority of people, steel snobbery is a silly form of Internet forum self-loving, nothing more.

Or do you seriously think your requirements are closer to average than what I've described?
 
All I have to say is this, I love simple steels, so 8Cr13MoV and AUS-8 are great IMO. The whole steel snobbery ordeal is silly.
 
me2 said:
It's been a couple of years, but I tested 8Cr13MoV against some S30V (Byrd Cara Cara and Benchmade Griptillian Tanto). The Byrd stayed even with the Griptillian for a long while, with both still able to treetop hair on the back of my head after cutting about 50 feet of cardboard (milk boxes). If you are the type who sharpens their knife after it starts to loose that initial crisp edge, then going to a better steel is pointless. If you like to use a working edge and/or do a lot of cutting of dirty or naturally abrasive materials, AUS-8 and 8Cr13MoV might not be for you. I'd hesitate to say they are good, bad, or exceptional. It depends on how you use your knife and how often you sharpen.
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This.^

Each steel has it's place, depending on knife design, end use and the owner's preference. Personally, I have no use for anything but a well honed and polished edge. If I have to polish the edge on AUS-8 more often, so be it.
 
I *DO* slice cardboard, plastic, tape, and zip ties every day. For more than a year, I've been doing that with a Spyderco Persistence. That knife has also been my EDC when I'm not at work. The 8cr13mov steel has zero corrosion issues, has retained its edge well enough to EASILY get these jobs done, has zero chips, and has only been sharpened twice in that year.

To be clear, that is the ONLY blade I've used in that year.

If 8cr13mov is easily sufficient for my needs, I know it's more than enough for most people. The only reason I'm relegating the Persistence to drawer duty is because my lady got me a Manix 2 as a gift a couple days ago. Were it not for that, I'd have happily continued carrying the Persistence, and would have been well served in doing so.
 
Akcir said:
Bull. Come to work with me, and your AUS8 would be finished by 6:30 am. I have nothing against AUS8 or 440c, but I don't whittle wood for a living. There has been quite a few days when I have had to put an M4 blade on a ceramic rod just to get through the day. Breaking down 1 1/4" thick cardboard Gaylord boxes that are used for 1400 lbs of material, will work over any steel. Just one box equals 16 feet of cutting. The other alternative is to use a Sawzall, messy, slow, and inconvenient. A high quality tool steel blade will also deburr aluminum, and cleanly slice 1/4" HDPE. Why use my knife for this stuff? One tool in my pocket for many jobs, it works well, and because I damn well please. Some of us actually expect high performance results from our high performance steels.
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You know what they say, Pics or it didn't happen.
 
RBid said:
I *DO* slice cardboard, plastic, tape, and zip ties every day. For more than a year, I've been doing that with a Spyderco Persistence. That knife has also been my EDC when I'm not at work. The 8cr13mov steel has zero corrosion issues, has retained its edge well enough to EASILY get these jobs done, has zero chips, and has only been sharpened twice in that year.

To be clear, that is the ONLY blade I've used in that year.

If 8cr13mov is easily sufficient for my needs, I know it's more than enough for most people. The only reason I'm relegating the Persistence to drawer duty is because my lady got me a Manix 2 as a gift a couple days ago. Were it not for that, I'd have happily continued carrying the Persistence, and would have been well served in doing so.
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Checked my tracking # today and it says my Manix 2 is out for delivery, I got the Black in BD1. We will see if it beats my Ontario Rat 1 for pocket time, I have been more impressed with the Rat 1 than any other folder I have ever owned.
 
Akcir said:
Bull. Come to work with me, and your AUS8 would be finished by 6:30 am. I have nothing against AUS8 or 440c, but I don't whittle wood for a living. There has been quite a few days when I have had to put an M4 blade on a ceramic rod just to get through the day. Breaking down 1 1/4" thick cardboard Gaylord boxes that are used for 1400 lbs of material, will work over any steel. Just one box equals 16 feet of cutting. The other alternative is to use a Sawzall, messy, slow, and inconvenient. A high quality tool steel blade will also deburr aluminum, and cleanly slice 1/4" HDPE. Why use my knife for this stuff? One tool in my pocket for many jobs, it works well, and because I damn well please. Some of us actually expect high performance results from our high performance steels.
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I had a job cutting those same boxes everyday. And doing the same type tasks you describe. What worked the best for me was an old Vaquero Grande. It is made in Japan. I don't know what steel it is but it worked great. An age old argument it is. Good for debate but ultimately comes down to user preference. If you like it and it works for you it's all good. As far as the constant references to "steel snobs" I really don't get it. There are actually very few BF members of this ilk. It isn't snobbery, it's user preference. For collectors it's getting unique, rare new steels or knife designs.
 
Firestrike said:
Checked my tracking # today and it says my Manix 2 is out for delivery, I got the Black in BD1. We will see if it beats my Ontario Rat 1 for pocket time, I have been more impressed with the Rat 1 than any other folder I have ever owned.
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I think it will exceed expectations, *unless* the size envelope isn't what you're after. My lady got this for me after I handled one while we were in a shop. Holding it blew me away, which apparently showed clearly through facial expressions. The ergonomics are truly impressive. It locks into the hand like a well executed fixed blade handle. The lock is strong (improved since that silly spine whack video in 2010 or thereabouts), blade shape is great, choil is perfect, gimping is effective, lanyard hole is biiiig. Perfect knife, IMO.

The only real snag might be size in pocket, if that's a Thing for you.
 
AntDog said:
All things considered, AUS-8 is better than 8cr13mov. BUT, 8cr13mov is still not that bad. I would compare it to AUS-6, or maybe a tad above that. I
I like AUS-8 just fine. It sharpens pretty easily and holds an edge well. It works well under heavy pressure and the edge doesn't chip out. I won't use much lower on the totem pole than AUS-8. AUS-6 is a completely different animal than AUS-8. AUS-6 will lose a sharp edge the second you look at it funny.

We are in a "golden age" for knives right now. We are getting to try out new, exotic, and exciting technology when it comes to blade steel. It is getting to the point where even the "lowest quality" steels are still pretty good. I'm pretty sure most of us on BF don't buy "gas station junk knives", so most of what we are getting from good companies is at worst very serviceable, and at best phenomenal.
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That was the best post out of the first 23 I've read in this thread.
 
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