Axe...How sharp?

So I went with my gut and lopped off the 2.25" leaving the handle at 29.5" with a small swelled curve at the end.

I scored some fatwood stumps today and took it for a test drive. I'm happy to tell you that it feels much better now. I was comfortable and confident swinging it and for the most part hit my targets. It went through everything just fine with no problems.
 
FTR-14c said:
Okay..., I want to ask you guys a new question without starting a another thread.

This is a Michigan pattern with a 3.5lb head and a total length of 34.5". The curved handle measures 31.75". I haven't used it much but did take it out for a few swings. I noticed that when I choke up on the handle a bit I feel more natural, comfortable and in control. I'm tempted to take 2.25" from the handle leaving it at 29.5". Is this unheard of in the axe world? I'm 6' tall and 250lbs. Should I man up, leave it alone, and try to get used to the length?
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For splitting, keep the length. With a little practice you'll be grateful for the longer haft on a splitter.
 
300Six said:
When they're too steep they don't want to 'stick' and often they 'bounce out'.
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Yes. And if you put a concave bevel on a maul or wedge then they stick in the wood well. For an axe sticking is a bad thing. For a wedge or maul it's a good thing.
 
300Six said:
To each his own I guess! My splitters are intentionally dull. You mostly avoid surprise blade nicks and chips this way and you can confidently use the implement to chop roots too.
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I tend to be in this camp though I learned my lesson after chipping my 8lb. Japanese splitting maul (36") when I was too lazy to walk thirty feet for the hardware store cheapy and used it to cut a root. Unless the wood is real stringy most of the splitting happens in the first inch or two if your bevel is steep so just sharp enough to penetrate is good enough for me.

With clean wood (not a lot of knots, etc) a sharper axe seems to work better when employing the "twist". Actually I don't twist but just hold the axe at a roughly 30º angle alá Tom Clark. A little tougher to aim but no timing concerns that way.
 
FTR-14c said:
So I went with my gut and lopped off the 2.25" leaving the handle at 29.5" with a small swelled curve at the end.

I scored some fatwood stumps today and took it for a test drive. I'm happy to tell you that it feels much better now. I was comfortable and confident swinging it and for the most part hit my targets. It went through everything just fine with no problems.
Click to expand...

It's certainly easier to be accurate with shorter handles but you give up a lot of free energy generated as a by-product of momentum. A little more flex and shock absorption comes with a longer haft as well. For me it's all about a 36" handle unless the work is light. I'm slowly moving the female in my life towards a 34" handle albeit with fairly light axe heads as a way of utilizing head speed and protecting her joints & bones.

Build up the butt of your handle with a few wraps of friction tape. It'll take a little less effort to hold on at the end of you stroke if you get any deflection.
 
Skweeker said:
Build up the butt of your handle with a few wraps of friction tape. It'll take a little less effort to hold on at the end of you stroke if you get any deflection.
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A good idea. With the large old swells of the past this was never necessary. But it will sure help out a new small swell.



Hard to resist adding a juvenile comment to this but I did it!
 
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