Axe? Please educate me

never.truly.lost said:
@Nathan the Machinist I don’t know about a small axe but for a 2-2.5lb ish one that is set up well I would.

mostly because I like well made things and I bring one to work everyday
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that's my favourite size axe, too. You get much smaller than that and you're in hatchet land. To my way of thinking, an axe is designed primarily to be used with two hands and an hatchet is primarily designed for one-handed use.

for a full size axe/axe, what do you think of hanging a standardized CPK head on your choice of handle, vs. head and handle designed together using a proprietary fitment?
 
Lorien said:
that's my favourite size axe, too. You get much smaller than that and you're in hatchet land. To my way of thinking, an axe is designed primarily to be used with two hands and an hatchet is primarily designed for one-handed use.

for a full size axe/axe, what do you think of hanging a standardized CPK head on your choice of handle, vs. head and handle designed together using a proprietary fitment?
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I’d like to try something new and see how it goes...but would also like the option to default back to a piece of hickory from House Handle (have been my go to for a while)
 
Lorien said:
for a full size axe/axe, what do you think of hanging a standardized CPK head on your choice of handle, vs. head and handle designed together using a proprietary fitment?
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I am somewhat proficient putting handles on things, I'd say, and I'll be the first to admit that hanging an axe head does require a certain amount of skill that not most folks have.

I wouldn't make having a standard handle a priority if you think there is a better way. Most guys just won't bother, so go ahead... do something new and innovative.

(I'll still have a go at it regardless :D)
 
I think Nathan could just about literally cut wedges of 3V out with a bandsaw, poke an eye out of them, HT & sharpen, and they'd be better than most axes on the planet. He's right, most hatchet/ax steel is a joke by comparison.

I am constantly amazed by how much better my SR-101 hatchet and 'hawk hold up, vs. my Gransfors and any other I've ever prersonally seen. Nathan would do a better job than Busse on this, I'm fairly confident (even my "thick" Pork Chop is only ~3/8" at the head, it needs more mass).
 
Nathan, I'd buy anything from you which will bears your signature / CPK insignia even if Matthew Gregory's silliest idea in form of a CPK raisin peeler or his next silly idea, the ear & nostril hair trimmer ever come to fruition! All said, I am with Jo on this one meaning that the NinJo requires a heckuva lotta of convincing to get onboard. Knowing that you do not shy away from realistic challenges, you will produce one kickass axe/hatchet which will justify carrying your sigi which I will also proudly try to score a couple of; no questions!

However, since I have now pretty much given up scoring folders from any other maker till yours comes to fruition followed by that Integral Shiv thingy, this knucklehead will stick with Jo's pragmatism purely for my own selfish wants in the order stated :)
 
madcap_magician said:
So @Nathan the Machinist are we thinking sort of a RMJ-style crash/tactical axe, or are we thinking more of an Estwing woods/camp hatchet?
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I'm thinking something around 1.5 or 2.0 pound head and maybe a 20 or 24 inch handle. A light camp axe, not a boys axe, with superior metallurgy allowing thin geometry behind the edge like a swedish axe but with more pronounced compound curvature on the cheeks better suited to American woods than the European axes so this isn't going to be like one of those swedish axes that look and feel good but stick in everything but will instead be more like a thined down racing Plumb. That will cut bone on any animal alive without edge damage. If Jo will let me do it.
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
I'm thinking something around 1.5 or 2.0 pound head and maybe a 20 or 24 inch handle. A light camp axe, not a boys axe, with superior metallurgy allowing thin geometry behind the edge like a swedish axe but with more pronounced compound curvature on the cheeks better suited to American woods than the European axes so this isn't going to be like one of those swedish axes that look and feel good but stick in everything but will instead be more like a thined down racing Plumb. That will cut bone on any animal alive without edge damage. If Jo will let me do it.
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In.
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
I'm thinking something around 1.5 or 2.0 pound head and maybe a 20 or 24 inch handle. A light camp axe, not a boys axe, with superior metallurgy allowing thin geometry behind the edge like a swedish axe but with more pronounced compound curvature on the cheeks better suited to American woods than the European axes so this isn't going to be like one of those swedish axes that look and feel good but stick in everything but will instead be more like a thined down racing Plumb. That will cut bone on any animal alive without edge damage. If Jo will let me do it.
Click to expand...

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Nathan the Machinist said:
I'm thinking something around 1.5 or 2.0 pound head and maybe a 20 or 24 inch handle. A light camp axe, not a boys axe, with superior metallurgy allowing thin geometry behind the edge like a swedish axe but with more pronounced compound curvature on the cheeks better suited to American woods than the European axes so this isn't going to be like one of those swedish axes that look and feel good but stick in everything but will instead be more like a thined down racing Plumb. That will cut bone on any animal alive without edge damage. If Jo will let me do it.
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In for at least one. Maybe more.
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
I'm thinking something around 1.5 or 2.0 pound head and maybe a 20 or 24 inch handle. A light camp axe, not a boys axe, with superior metallurgy allowing thin geometry behind the edge like a swedish axe but with more pronounced compound curvature on the cheeks better suited to American woods than the European axes so this isn't going to be like one of those swedish axes that look and feel good but stick in everything but will instead be more like a thined down racing Plumb. That will cut bone on any animal alive without edge damage. If Jo will let me do it.
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my oxhead does tend to stick occasionally, and you can feel it flex laterally sometimes. Size and weight is on the money, I wouldn't go for less than a 2# head, personally
 
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