- Joined
- Dec 13, 2015
- Messages
- 537

mostly because I like well made things and I bring one to work everyday
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
it's not what they look like, it's what they feel likeSit down Lorien, we know what all your handles wind up looking like![]()
Nathan the Machinist I don’t know about a small axe but for a 2-2.5lb ish one that is set up well I would.
mostly because I like well made things and I bring one to work everyday
that's my favourite size axe, too. You get much smaller than that and you're in hatchet land. To my way of thinking, an axe is designed primarily to be used with two hands and an hatchet is primarily designed for one-handed use.
for a full size axe/axe, what do you think of hanging a standardized CPK head on your choice of handle, vs. head and handle designed together using a proprietary fitment?
for a full size axe/axe, what do you think of hanging a standardized CPK head on your choice of handle, vs. head and handle designed together using a proprietary fitment?
SoNathan the Machinist are we thinking sort of a RMJ-style crash/tactical axe, or are we thinking more of an Estwing woods/camp hatchet?
In.I'm thinking something around 1.5 or 2.0 pound head and maybe a 20 or 24 inch handle. A light camp axe, not a boys axe, with superior metallurgy allowing thin geometry behind the edge like a swedish axe but with more pronounced compound curvature on the cheeks better suited to American woods than the European axes so this isn't going to be like one of those swedish axes that look and feel good but stick in everything but will instead be more like a thined down racing Plumb. That will cut bone on any animal alive without edge damage. If Jo will let me do it.
I'm thinking something around 1.5 or 2.0 pound head and maybe a 20 or 24 inch handle. A light camp axe, not a boys axe, with superior metallurgy allowing thin geometry behind the edge like a swedish axe but with more pronounced compound curvature on the cheeks better suited to American woods than the European axes so this isn't going to be like one of those swedish axes that look and feel good but stick in everything but will instead be more like a thined down racing Plumb. That will cut bone on any animal alive without edge damage. If Jo will let me do it.
I'm thinking something around 1.5 or 2.0 pound head and maybe a 20 or 24 inch handle. A light camp axe, not a boys axe, with superior metallurgy allowing thin geometry behind the edge like a swedish axe but with more pronounced compound curvature on the cheeks better suited to American woods than the European axes so this isn't going to be like one of those swedish axes that look and feel good but stick in everything but will instead be more like a thined down racing Plumb. That will cut bone on any animal alive without edge damage. If Jo will let me do it.
my oxhead does tend to stick occasionally, and you can feel it flex laterally sometimes. Size and weight is on the money, I wouldn't go for less than a 2# head, personallyI'm thinking something around 1.5 or 2.0 pound head and maybe a 20 or 24 inch handle. A light camp axe, not a boys axe, with superior metallurgy allowing thin geometry behind the edge like a swedish axe but with more pronounced compound curvature on the cheeks better suited to American woods than the European axes so this isn't going to be like one of those swedish axes that look and feel good but stick in everything but will instead be more like a thined down racing Plumb. That will cut bone on any animal alive without edge damage. If Jo will let me do it.