Axe? Please educate me

Dr_Void said:
The Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian forest axe is a great axe.

A traditional, functional, non-tacticool, D3V axehead design with a hickory handle would be awesome. I’d imagine that it wouldn’t be cheap.
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Aside from the large splitter, the ScFA is the only GB I've used. I find it to be a very handy size, especially for logs ~6" or smaller, kinda lacks the oomph for larger stuff. Like I mentioned in one of the other threads regarding a Carothers axe, something around a pound heavier, maybe an inch or so more cutting edge and 2" longer overall would make a great axe for smaller stuff.

Here's a pic, because everything is better with pictures and to give those unaware an idea of the size of the axe we're talking about.

05wEg8l.jpg
 
The trade name Axess Enterprises is taken (just ask Jo) but will sell it to you for a pittance; all you will have to do is just axe!

This is it, i.e, my whole contribution to this subject but if you make 'em, I'll buy a couple or more from you because I crave for your work. Other than that, I ain't buying $500 axes from any other soul!
 
trevitrace said:
Aside from the large splitter, the ScFA is the only GB I've used. I find it to be a very handy size, especially for logs ~6" or smaller, kinda lacks the oomph for larger stuff. Like I mentioned in one of the other threads regarding a Carothers axe, something around a pound heavier, maybe an inch or so more cutting edge and 2" longer overall would make a great axe for smaller stuff.

Here's a pic, because everything is better with pictures and to give those unaware an idea of the size of the axe we're talking about.

05wEg8l.jpg
Click to expand...
If you were to Make a cube around that axe head, what would be the three dimensions?
 
What kind of task do you want your axe to perform?

Felling? Splitting? Limbing?

Generally, weight, blade geometry, and comfortable handle are what I look for.

For felling axes, I like something I can get screaming sharp, bites deep, and isn't so heavy it wears me out after a few throws..... yet has enough weight that it hits with authoritay. Prefer double bit.

For splitting, heavy head, wide angle grind, long handle.

Smaller, I prefer a single bit with a hammer for the 2nd. I also prefer a price made of a single price of steel from handle to head.
 
tinfoil hat timmy said:
Probably not. I know less than anybody though.

Theres a reason axe heads generally tend to be high carbon type steels. Toughness is probably the most important thing I'm guessing.
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D3V would make an amazing edge for an ax.
And another company running 3v soft suggests it would work well for the eye.
Its bringing these two together thats key.
Lots of clay and experiments possibly?
Could you fold a 3v bit into 5160 or something?

Would this be better suited to a crowd fund? Lol
 
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Nathan the Machinist said:
Is there a benefit to Delta 3V in an axe head? Does an axe head benefit from an abrasion resistant high hardness steel?
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The entire point of some makers going to a laminated steel is because the axe head has competing, currently mutually exclusive needs.

On the edge you want it to be hard and wear resistant, I remember the videos of you cutting steel nails with the D3V knives. That’s awesome in the event one hits a rock, a nail in the wood etc. My GB took more damage from a much smaller rock embedded in wood than your blanks took from cutting a nail, with less steel behind the edge.

You want the eye to be able to absorb lots of impact without cracking.

And then the poll, if you intend it to be struck or not...
 
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